Field Report, May 10, 2024

May 10, 2024 Posted by: Maureen Gualtieri
 

TODAY'S STATS - 5/10/24

    Denali    

Mt. Foraker

Registered Climbers

959

32

Climbers Currently On Mountain

89

12

Completed Climbs

2

0

Number of Summits

0

0

Summit Percentage

0%

0%

The Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station also maintains an almost daily automated statistics phone line, so if this blog is lagging behind and you need up-to-date registration numbers, call (907) 733-9127.

 
As of today, 440 park visitors have registered for adventures in the Alaska Range backcountry (peaks other than Denali or Foraker).  Of those, 102 are currently out enjoying the park, with 338 individuals who have come and gone.
 

Mountain Weather
 

At 7K, Basecamp Gabby InReached the following report today:  "partly cloudy up high and above camp, with with everything open aside from main runway (cloud bank sitting low), temp of 8 F, ~2" new snow."

Weather station telemetry data from 7K and 14K are transmitted hourly to the MesoWest website, including temperatures, wind speed, wind direction, snowfall, and solar radiation.  

MountainWeather.com compiles a Denali Weather page, complete with links to the MesoWest data, the NWS Denali Climbing Forecasts, as well as links to FAA webcams. 

The National Weather Service publishes their mountain-specific forecast here: Denali Climbing Forecast

 

Conditions Reports


ALERT:  Rangers Jake and Kakiko report that conditions up from 11,000 to 14,000 feet on the West Buttress are blue ice and more difficult than normal.  Motorcycle Hill is icy and may require running belay.  Squirrel Hill is firm but easy travel.  Early season crevasse hazard exists on the Polo Field and Windy Corner and crevasses may be difficult to identify. 
 


Ranger Reports 



14K Patrol #1 (Kayes and Ramos-Leon)  The set-up crew is now officially hard at work setting up.  The patrol arrived at 14,200 feet on Tuesday night.  First things first - after a good night's rest, the cook tent went up.  The communications tent and medical tent to follow.  Check out their report above of the route condiitons above 11K -- tougher going than usual.


14K Patrol #2 (Davis)  Ranger Alan Davis and his four volunteers-in-parks (aka VIP's) flew to Basecamp on Tuesday afternoon.  From left to right below, the team includes Theresa (Tree) Gerdin, Paramedic Andrew Gibson, George Hedreen, Ranger Alan Davis, and Peter Quayle.  Today's radio traffic indicates the crew is ascending from last night's camp at 7,800 to 9,500 feet this evening.  Feeling strong!    


Five climbers stand outside a red and white airplane in street clothes

 


THAT Is What It's All About


The success of a Denali expedition involves so much more than setting foot on top.  There aren’t too many experiences left in this world in which a team can spend 20+ days in the mountains, working together, testing strength and stamina, creatively solving problems, sharing camps with fellow adventurers from around the world, and taking in the natural grandeur of the Alaska Range.  This season we highlight the teams that may not have reached the summit, but nevertheless embody the spirit of Alaska expedition travel -- self-sufficiency, strong decision-making, and the joy of the mountains.  

Today we are grateful share the post-trip observations of Pascale Marceau and Scott Cocks, the first two climbers of the season to return from their Denali climb:
 

"Of course we are disappointed to have abandoned, but who wouldn't be after all that planning, training, investment and commitment.  Even after years of failed attempts on various expeditions, it's always hard to call it, even when it is clear that there isn't even a decision to be made.  Our gear and systems worked well, we felt strong until the injury, our timing was perfect and we met great foiks out there.

Projects always have an objective (summit of Denali in early season), but the motivation, the real driver behind these endeavors is always curiosity.  Courageous curiosity.  It's about being ok with unease, it's about welcoming all that comes with doing something out of our comfort bubble, it's about allowing ourselves to seek what the experience might bring.  One never regrets that.

The highlight for us was the self-rescue, the descent.  At first, every step was excruciating, I may have winced as hard as my teammate did when I heard the sharp cries of pain.  With every step came more hope, that we were doing it, we would make it. As the terrain eased, the meds kicked in and motion became lotion.  Our plan was clear, no falling in cracks and no stopping. We knew if we stopped, restarting would be even worse.

After a week of climbing in snow & wind storms, low clouds, poor viz or full-on whiteouts, this was the first time we got perfect visibility.  As evening fell, the skies turned into a gorgeous deep blue, summits were lit by an breathtaking alpenglow and there was not a soul around.  The view down the Kahiltna anchored in that the Alaska Range truly is one of the most beautiful places on Earth.  An endless expanse of snow and ice with towering mountain giants.  Everything around us was alive and we where lucky to be there, part of nature, on our precious little blue planet.  THAT is what it's all about. 

WarmlyPascale

 


This season, we actively encourage climbers to share their unique mountain success stories with us, particularly that 'other half' that might not reach the summit!    



Photo of the Day



Multiple climbers load a patient strapped into a rescue litter into an open helicopter
Due to an early season shortage of mountain photos, today we provide a feel for what pre-expedition 'ground school' looks like for a team of mountaineering volunteers.  This day Patrol #2 volunteers practice the best way to strap an NPS ranger onto a vacuum mat, then load him into the park's high altitude rescue helicopter.   (NPS Photo) 

As the Communications Tent gets erected in the near future -- we can anticipate more photos from the mountain...

Last updated: May 10, 2024

Park footer

Contact Info

Mailing Address:

PO Box 9
Denali Park, AK 99755

Phone:

907 683-9532
A ranger is available 9 am to 4 pm daily (except on major holidays). If you reach the voicemail, please leave a message and we'll call you back as soon as we finish with the previous caller.

Contact Us