Field Report, May 23, 2023

May 23, 2024 Posted by: Maureen Gualtieri
 

TODAY'S STATS - 5/23/24

    Denali    

Mt. Foraker

Registered Climbers

962

27

Climbers Currently On Mountain

419

14

Completed Climbs

48

9

Number of Summits

4

0

Summit Percentage

8%

0%

The Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station also maintains an almost daily automated statistics phone line, so if this blog is lagging behind and you need up-to-date registration numbers, call (907) 733-9127.

 

Mountain Weather


Basecamp was flyable this morning – mostly clear aside from some clouds atop Mt. Hunter.  Foraker wide open. Temp was 21 F with a light easterly wind. 

Conditions are cold and breezy on the upper mountain.   Temps above 14K are hovering near -25 F coupled with wind gusts to 25 to 30 mph is a recipe for cold injury.


Weather station telemetry data from 7K and 14K are transmitted hourly to the MesoWest website, including temperatures, wind speed, wind direction, snowfall, and solar radiation.  

MountainWeather.com compiles a Denali Weather page, complete with links to the MesoWest data, the NWS Denali Climbing Forecasts, as well as links to FAA webcams. 

The National Weather Service publishes their mountain-specific forecast here: Denali Climbing Forecast

 

Conditions Reports


Some 14K parties are reportedly heading up the fixed lines today to cache gear, but otherwise only one party is currently camped on the upper mountain. Conditions up high are reported as ‘firm and windy’.  Today, rangers recommend against travel up high due to the high winds and deep cold temperatures.

Lower on the mountain, route conditions have improved:
  • The route from 11k to 14k has been beaten down by hundreds of crampons and is now quite good. Everything is still firm, but the traffic on the trail has created some very distinct troughs that are easy to walk in.
  • Motorcycle Hill is very straightforward with good footing, and snow bridges are holding well.
  • Squirrel Hill has a good track that sticks climbers right close to the rocks.
  • Windy Corner has good footing. The final track into 14k’ camp is currently in an unusual place, winding low through the large cracks below camp. Snowbridges are currently good and we will see if that track remains viable through the season.

 

Ranger Reports 



Twelve climbers in puffy coats huddle in a tentThree's a crowd...particularly three ranger patrols in one cook tent.  Patrols #1, #2, and #3 converged on 14,200-foot camp for one evening earlier this week...all the better for staying warm during this recent cold snap.  (NPS Photo) 


14K Patrol #1 (Ramos-Leon)  Kakiko and VIP’s Andrea Tupy, Madelyn Ferdock, and Alec Wilson are hopefully on an airplane out of the Alaska Range as we speak.  Thank you, team, for the herculean task of setting up camp as well as your critical recovery efforts this week.

14K Patrol #2 (Davis)   Patrol #2 are anxious to bump up to High Camp (17K) when the winds subside in the next couple days.  In addition to collecting caches left by two teams involved in SAR this week, the patrol will survey lines and pickets as weather conditions permit.  

14K Patrol #3 (Oken)  Patrol #3 worked with member’s of Patrol #2 to assist the remaining two members of the team that fell below Zebra Rocks on Monday.  After their injured team member was short-hauled from 18,600 feet direct to basecamp by the park helicopter, the remaining two climbers required help with mild injuries and equipment failure.  The two are headed down to Basecamp today, however, under their own power.        

14K Patrol #4 (Bomba) Ranger Chelsea Bomba leads West Buttress Patrol #4, heading into the Kahiltna Basecamp today with four skilled Volunteers-in-Parks.  VIP Cy Conrad returns for the second straight season, joined by VIPs George Creighton, Tully Hamer, and Robin Pendery, an R.N. from Oregon who will take the lead on medical response.


Five climbers huddle for a photo in front of a red and white airplaneLeft to right: Ranger Chelsea Bomba, VIP George Creighton, VIP Tully Hamer, VIP Cy Conrad, and VIP/RN Robin Pendery.


7K Patrol #2 (Dossin)  Ranger Galen and VIP Meagan fly out today, temporarily leaving Basecamp operations to Bomba and crew for a day or two.   


Denali Rescue Volunteers
 

Poster depicting a climber on a mountain ridge overlayed with event information

Save the date!  Denali Rescue Volunteers is teaming up with the Denali Arts Council to present the Vanccouver International Mountain Film Festival on Saturday, June 8 at the Sheldon Community Arts Hangar in downtown Talkeetna.  For more information, go to the DAC events webpage.



A circle with a cross overlayed over a mountain image.

Learn more about Denali Rescue Volunteers, an organization that helps make Denali National Park and Preserve's mountaineering operations whole! Thank you for all that you do each season, from helping equipping our volunteers, housing them before and after patrols, and supporting our recruitment process! 



Photo of the Day



The silhouette of a helicopter in the sky above a glacial ridgeThe NPS-contracted TEMSCO high altitude helicopter (0AE) on approach to the 11,000-foot camp for the evacuation of a non-ambulatory solo skier last week.   (NPS Photo/Hedreen) 

   
 

Last updated: May 23, 2024

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Contact Info

Mailing Address:

PO Box 9
Denali Park, AK 99755

Phone:

907 683-9532
A ranger is available 9 am to 4 pm daily (except on major holidays). If you reach the voicemail, please leave a message and we'll call you back as soon as we finish with the previous caller.

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