Wilderness

Scrambling over boulders in a collapse trench is part of the caving adventure at El Malpais.

NPS/S. Deibler

A Volcanic Wilderness

The rugged wilderness of El Malpais National Monument has much to offer those who are prepared for a challenging adventure. Trek across 'a 'ā and pāhoehoe lava flows. Peer down into the deep crevasse of a pressure ridge. Hike into a natural amphitheater formed by an inflation pit. Hop over cracks. Scramble on boulders in a collapse trench. Walk over a lava bridge. Enjoy views of cave entrances. Marvel at twisted trees growing out of the lava rock. The federal wilderness portion of the monument consists of over 97,400 acres of recommended and recommended potential wilderness. What does "wilderness" mean?

The word "wilderness" has been in use for a long time by some cultures, while others may not have a similar word or concept at all. One specific association of wilderness is federal wilderness, a status that preserves large and relatively undeveloped landscapes for ecological, social, and cultural benefits as described in the Wilderness Act of 1964. Federal wilderness areas are the homelands of Indigenous peoples, the inspiration of many artists, the convener of connections shared with loved ones, the provider of mental and physical health opportunities, and much more. What does wilderness mean to you?

 

While hiking the Zuni-Acoma Trail, it is common to see few, if any other people from outside your group, making this one of the excellent places to find solitude at El Malpais. This trail provides visitors a chance to interact with this landscape the same way humans have for centuries-on foot.

NPS/S. Deibler

Wilderness areas, like the recommended and recommended potential wilderness at El Malpais, are managed to preserve "wilderness character," which includes intangible qualities and tangible qualities.

Intangible qualities are specific to each of us; you may find wilderness to be a place of inspiration, spiritual renewal, adventure and challenge, or something else entirely!

Wilderness areas are also managed to preserve five tangible characteristics:

Natural
Ecological systems are substantially free from the effects of modern civilization.

This quality recognizes the importance of healthy, intact ecosystems and challenges us to limit our negative effects on the functionality of these systems.

Untrammeled
Wilderness is essentially unhindered and free from the intentional actions of modern human control or manipulation.

This quality recognizes the importance of people co-exising with our planet, where people practice humility and are very slective and thoughtful about actions we take that might interfere with the rest of the natural world.

Undeveloped
Wilderness is essentially without permanent improvements or the sights and sounds of modern human occupation.

This quality recognizes that while developments, like structures or use of motorized equipment, are very important and appropriate in many places, wilderness gives us a chance to consider more traditional ways of interacting with the rest of the natural world.

Hikers may notice that there are few signs in wilderness areas.

Opportunities for Solitude or Primitive and Unconfined Recreation
Wilderness provides outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation.

This quality recognizes many recreational activities are appropriate and compatible with wilderness, especially those that rely on human power and give us a chance to "unplug."

Other Features of Value
Wilderness may also contain ecological, geological, or other features of scientific, educational, scenic, or historical value.

This quality recognizes the centuries-old and rich cultural tradtions of Indigenous people and other residents to lands now managed as wilderness. These important cultural and historical connections can be explored in this quality, along with the values we place on things like scenery, science, and education.

The rugged terrain of El Malpais is a sacred cultural landscape that has a significant role in the heritage of the surrounding tribes. For millennia, humans have been interacting within and around the lava fields. El Malpais is the homeland of native peoples and is imbedded in the origin stories, ceremonies, and continuing traditions of the Pueblo of Acoma, Pueblo of Zuni, Pueblo of Laguna, and the Navajo Nation. Indigenous people collected water from reservoirs and cave ice, created a network of trails across the lava flows, and built structures amidst the lava rock and along the outside edges.

"To be whole. To be complete. Wilderness reminds us what it means to be human, what we are connected to rather than what we are separate from."
-Terry Tempest Williams

 

A map of El Malpais National Monument that shows the wilderness and frontcountry areas of the monument.

NPS/A. Steele

How can I experience the wilderness at El Malpais National Monument?

Wilderness means something different to everyone. Likewise, people will form their own unique connections to wilderness. Some may come seeking solitude. Others may want to see fascinating volcanic features. It is a place where a person can test their navigational skills and physical stamina. Maybe there's something about wild landscapes that beckon you to be wild and free. For some, this place is home.

In order to successfully negotiate the wide fissures of the pāhoehoe flows and the jagged, blocky fields of 'a'ā, the best way to explore the park's volcanic landscape is on foot. Intrepid adventurers have two options for hiking in the wilderness of El Malpais: day hikes on the Lava Falls, Big Tubes, or Zuni-Acoma Trails or cross-country multi-day treks. While out hiking, you may encounter lava tube caves. To protect sensitive resources in these caves, only three caves are currently open to the public. Two of these caves require a free caving permit before entering. Plan ahead and prepare to find your own connection to the wilderness of El Malpais.

 

The "Lava Bowl" or natural amphitheater formed by a pressure ridge is the highlight of the Lava Falls Trail. This short but challenging trail gives hikers a chance to experience wilderness just a short distance from the trailhead.

NPS/J. Kuehnert

Access points
The most common wilderness access points are the trailheads for the Lava Falls, Zuni-Acoma/Acoma-Zuni, and Big Tubes trails. The parking areas for Lava Bomb, Hoya Wilderness Area, Lost Woman Crater, and Cerro Encierro are more remote access points.

Accessibility for people with limited mobility or physical disabilities
El Malpais offers places where you can drive to see, experience, and appreciate wilderness if you are unable to walk on the uneven terrain of lava flows.

• From the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook: as you gaze across the tree-covered lava flows that cover the valley floor, you are getting a bird's-eye view of wilderness.
• Lava Falls Trailhead: walk the short dirt section of the trail to the edge of the McCartys lava flow. This young lava flow marks the edge of the wilderness. Continue on the lava rock as far as your ability allows. The lava terrain will eventually become lumpy and uneven with multiple cracks to hop over.

 

Group Sizes for Hiking and Camping
The maximum group size is 15 people for hiking or camping. For more details, please see the Superintendent's Compendium.

"He who feels the spell of the wild, the rhythmic melody of falling water, the echoes among the crags, the bird songs, the wind in the pines...is in tune with the universe."
-Enos Mills