Glimpses of the National Parks and Monuments
(From the Stanford University Press edition of "Oh, Ranger!")
"Oh, Ranger! I have just time enough to see one
national park. Which one has the best scenery?" Now that is a hard
question. It is also one often asked by those who have yet to see their
first national park and who have a vague idea that a national park is
"something like a city park, only larger." Actually, the national parks
bear little resemblance to most city parks. Where the city parks are
cultivated areas, the national parks are regions where Nature is
permitted to take her own wild course with trees, flowers, animals,
hills, and dales. The National Park Service seeks to keep the parks in
as wild a state as possible. Only such roads, trails, and buildings are
allowed as are absolutely essential to the comfort of travelers. Each of
the fifteen major national parks is supreme in its own way, and each is
different. Each was formed to preserve to posterity some striking and
outstanding wonder.
Mount Rainier, for example, is a beautiful, stately,
snow-covered mountain, an extinct volcano, down the sides of which flow
twenty-eight glaciers or rivers of ice. Yellowstone National Park
contains more hot-water geysers than can be found in all the rest of the
world put together. Nowhere else in the world will the traveler find
granite walls so stupendous as in Yosemite, nowhere else will he find
waterfalls so high and astounding, or cliffs so precipitous. Sequoia
National Park is the home of the finest groves of giant sequoias,
including the largest and oldest living thing on earth, the General
Sherman Tree. Crater Lake fills, with a deep blue, the cavity left when
the top of Mount Mazama, one of America's greatest volcanoes, caved in
and disappeared into its own depths, ages ago. Mount McKinley National
Park contains the highest peak on the American continent, rearing its
crest twenty thousand feet above the sea. Grand Canyon National Park, in
Arizona, exhibits the mightiest and most colorful chasm in the world.
Mesa Verde National Park preserves the ruins of a remarkable ancient
American civilization. Hawaii National Park offers stupendous exhibits
of volcanic activity, and much of the time a lake of boiling lava. And
so on, through the whole list of the national parks.
Besides the national parks there are thirty-three
national monuments under the direction of the National Park Service.
National parks are reserved and dedicated by act of Congress, and, as a
rule, they have been carved out of the public domain and set apart as
national parks because they contain scenery or other natural phenomena
so unusual and distinctive as to make their preservation in essentially
their primal condition of national importance. Originally it was
believed that only areas of considerable size should be included in
national parks, but long since the element of size has been dropped as
an essential factor in creating parks.
National monuments are set aside by order of the
President under the Act of Congress of June 8, 1906, which is known as
the "Antiquities Act." It authorizes the Chief Executive to "declare by
public proclamation historic landmarks, historic and prehistoric
structures, and other objects of historic and scientific interest that
are situated upon lands owned or controlled by the Government of the
United States to be national monuments." Another section of this law
permitted the President to accept donations of land which might be
established as national monuments. It sometimes happens, as in the case
of Acadia National Park, that Congress elevates a national monument to
the status of a national park, and it is not unlikely that one or two of
the smaller national parks will be reduced eventually to the status of
monuments.
In the beginning, the Antiquities or National
Monument Act was interpreted to authorize only the reservation of small
areas including landmarks, historic structures such as old missions,
prehistoric buildings such as cliff dwellings, and unusual features of
scientific interest such as the Petrified Forest in Arizona, certain
fine caves, Muir Woods, et cetera. In 1908 President Roosevelt, in
order to stop exploitation of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado through
mining claims and other filings on land which had no legal basis,
ordered a national monument created nearly a thousand square miles in
area on the ground that the Grand Canyon possessed "scientific
interest." His power to do this was questioned in the courts, but he was
sustained by them.
Theoretically, on the precedent of the Grand Canyon
case, any president could make a national monument include any area that
the nation might want or that should be preserved for all time, but,
practically, Congress would not permit such a general usurpation of its
powers and could control the reserving of such monuments by refusing to
appropriate funds for their upkeep.
As a matter of fact, were it not for this question of
funds for upkeep and operation, the national monuments and national
parks would be almost on the same basis, for the National Park Service
Act of 1916 authorizes both parks and monuments to be administered in
the same manner and under identical policies. Today, Carlsbad Cave
National Monument in New Mexico, Petrified Forest and Casa Grande
National monuments in Arizona, and Pinnacles and Muir Woods monuments in
California are operated exactly like national parks, while Sullys Hill
National Park in North Dakota is handled like a monument, owing to lack
of funds.
In spite of this seeming confusion between parks and
monuments, no one will deny that Congress, in declaring the
establishment of parks and in providing for them, has properly
distinguished between the various reservations on a basis of merit,
giving the great outstanding features, historic, scientific, and scenic,
national park status, the lesser features being left to presidential
reservation as monuments. And as monuments, because of public interest
or because of discovery of more important features, claim national park
status, Congress elevates them. It is likely that Carlsbad Cave National
Monument, under the National Park Service, and the Bandelier National
Monument, under the Department of Agriculture, both in New Mexico, may
become national parks, the latter the National Park of the Cliff Cities
near Santa Fe.
It should be noted here that there are fifteen
monuments under the Department of Agriculture and eleven under the War
Department, they lie within national forests or military reservations.
It is more economical to protect these monuments with forces of these
other departments, but it is believed that the policies governing them
will ultimately be those of the National Park Service. As a matter of
fact, the War Department has taken the position that the National Park
Service should take over not only its national monuments but also the
national military parks, which include Gettysburg in Pennsylvania,
Shiloh in Tennessee, Vicksburg in Mississippi, Chickamauga and
Chattanooga in Georgia and Tennessee, and Antietam in Maryland, all
battlefields of the Civil War, but most of them also very scenic and
otherwise possessed of park characteristics.
There are also two other national military parks,
Guilford Courthouse in North Carolina, a Revolutionary War battleground,
and Lincoln's birthplace in Kentucky, containing the log cabin and part
of the farm where Abraham Lincoln was born. This latter park, it seems,
should have been under the National Park Service from its establishment,
as there never has been any military significance to its creation and
maintenance. So it appears that there will be ultimately a consolidation
of national parks, national monuments, and national military parks under
the National Park Service, which is equipped by experience, personnel,
legal authority, and general policies to administer and protect them all
in the interest of the nation.
Of the national monuments now under the National Park
Service, two are in California, eight are in Arizona, six in New Mexico,
one in Nebraska, three in Colorado, four in Utah, two in Wyoming, one in
South Dakota, one in North Dakota, one in Montana, one in Idaho, and
three in Alaska.
All of the monuments in Arizona, New Mexico, and
Utah, with the exception of the Carlsbad Cave and the Dinosaur
monuments, are under the administration of one superintendent with
headquarters at Casa Grande, Arizona.
Following is a brief description of each of the
national parks and monuments, together with suggestions for seeing
them.
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