CARLSBAD CAVERNS Circular of General Information 1936

CARLSBAD CAVERNS
National Park

AMONG the superb areas included in the national park system of the United States is a series of connected caverns of unusual magnificence and extent known as the Carlsbad Caverns. They are located in southeastern New Mexico, in the rugged foothills of the Guadalupe Mountains. The region is picturesque semidesert country, and its cactus vegetation is as strange and interesting to many visitors as are the caverns themselves.

A 6 months' exploratory expedition by the National Geographic Society established the beauty and great extent of the caverns. The Federal Government, by proclamation of President Coolidge, on October 25, 1923, established the Carlsbad Cave National Monument. Later, by act of Congress approved May 14, 1930, the area became the Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

Myriads of fascinating formations seen in the caverns.

FORMATION OF THE CAVERNS

Carlsbad Caverns are openings made by water in a massive rock known as the Carlsbad limestone. This limestone was formed originally in a shallow inland extension of the ocean some 200 millions year ago—in the Permian period, which followed the time of greatest coal forming throughout the world. After this period the area was dry land, but it may have been resubmerged and covered by sediments at a later period.

The uplifting and folding movements that formed the Rocky Mountains also raised the Carlsbad area above sea level. The Guadalupe Mountains near Carlsbad are outliers of that great mountain system. The uplift of the region took place about the end of the "Age of Dinosaurs" (Cretaceous period)—some 60 million years ago. Since that time the streams have carved their deep gorges, the vast caverns have been hollowed in the limestone, and within them, at a still later time, the amazing decorative deposits were formed.

The repeated movements of the region made numerous joint cracks or fissures in the massive Carlsbad limestone, and a portion of the rain water that enters the ground has found its way along many of these crevices. The beginnings of the caverns as small crevices date from the entrance of this first percolating water.

Once water enters a limestone it begins the incessant process of removal by solution. Slowly it seeps through the crevices, removing the firm rock little by little, until eventually a series of tortuous openings are developed. Very small at first, they gradually enlarge and extend in all directions, and all are connected. More water enters with each rain and the cavities continue to enlarge by solution, rapidly when water is plentiful, slowly when it is scarce, thus opening great caves and passageways. Long, continuous corridors result when ground water is diverted along the contact of an impervious layer or follows a straight fissure or joint crack. Ultimately the water that moves through these subterranean channels flows out into the valley in the form of seepages or springs.

Some cave rooms have been formed or enlarged also by the solution of embedded salt or gypsum, which are much more soluble than limestone. The large rooms owe their size in part to the caving of rock from the sides and the roof. Such caving extends upward and in some places opens great holes at the surface. Where much water finds its way underground and sand and gravel are washed in from the surface many of the channels are deepened by the scouring action of flowing streams.

Ground water moves through deeper passages and finds lower outlets when the adjacent valleys are deepened. The small seepages that find their way into the dry caverns from above are here evaporated, and deposition takes place instead of solution and removal. During this second period of development nature converts these gray cavities into a fairyland of divine conception. In the Carlsbad Caverns there are myriads of beautifully sculptured effects hanging from the ceiling. Some of these are inverted spires variously ornamented and known as stalactites; some are small delicate growths resembling plant structures. Where water enters any opening faster than it can be evaporated, part of it falls to the floor and evaporates there, gradually building up stalagmites and other masses of limestone, many of which assume grotesque shapes. Some stalactites and stalagmites have joined to form huge columns.

Less commonly irregular spiral and curiously branched and twisted forms develop; these are known as helictites. Many of the formations in all forms and positions are beautifully colored, generally in shades of tan, but tints of rose, green, and purple are also sometimes seen. This coloring results from a small amount of iron or other mineral matter in the limestone. These ornate and fascinating forms are due to the deposition of limestone which has been carried in solution by ground water and which crystallizes upon the walls of the cave as the water evaporates or when dissolved carbon dioxide which it may contain escapes to the air. Even when most of the water finds direct entrance through sink holes into deep open passageways, a small amount still seeps through small crevices into the dry upper chambers where it evaporates and deposits its tiny load of limestone. This constant addition of small increments to the surface by the evaporation of the water in which it is dissolved is the method by which the cave formations grow. The brilliance and translucent appearance of the formations in a cave are due to the fact that they are saturated with water. If, for any reason, the seepage of water into the cave is stopped, its appearance gradually becomes dull and the surface slowly assumes a powdered appearance. Such a dry cave is spoken of, in cave parlance, as being dead.

The immensity of the large rooms, the beauty of form, and the impenetrable stillness leave an indelible impression upon those who venture into this fairyland. The beauty, form, and color are so impressive that a consideration of the method by which the caverns develop appears inadequate to explain the events that have taken place.

Entrance and Trail. Kennicott photo.

EXTENT OF THE CAVERNS AND OF PARK

Although it has been the subject of extensive explorations, the size of the Carlsbad Caverns is not yet known. Already many miles of passages and chambers have been explored, and further mileage is continually being conquered. How far the caverns extend under the Guadalupe Mountains no one knows.

At the present time the caverns have three main levels, and there may be others not yet discovered. The first is at the 750-foot level, to which visitors are conducted. Below it is another vast subterranean apartment at 900 feet, and below that still another at 1,320 feet. None of these levels has been completely explored, nor is it the desire of the National Park Service to make further explorations until the present known areas are more fully developed.

Although the underground caverns are so extensive, the surface area of Carlsbad Caverns National Park was only a little more than 700 acres until February 21, 1933, when President Hoover signed a proclamation increasing its size to 9,960 acres. Authority for this extension was granted by Congress in 1930, when it authorized the park's establishment.

Within this enlargement are many other caves, many rich in decorative deposits and some full of archeological interest in that several of them are the burial places of prehistoric inhabitants of the region.

Other evidences of prehistoric occupancy are the circular rock mescal or cooking pits and the grinding bowls found near the entrance to the caverns. Just at the entrance is an excellent example of a mescal pit. The early Indians baked not only mescal and cactus but sometimes meats in these pits.

Early pioneer trails passed near the caverns entrance. The Spanish conquistadors are believed to have come into the Guadalupe Mountains at Rattlesnake Springs, near the caverns, and the historic old Butterfield express trail (the first express trail across the West) crossed the route of the Spaniards at this point. Over the Butterfield Trail the Forty-niners freighted their gold from California to St. Louis, and today wagon irons, relics of old wagon trains that met with disaster at the hands of marauding bands, are sometimes unearthed.

Parking terraces at caverns entrance. Kennicott photo.

EXPLORATION OF CAVERNS

The first white man to explore the caverns was Jim White, a cowboy. This was in 1901. Seeing a dark, moving column issuing from the region, he investigated and found a natural opening in the earth which led down to the caverns. The dark, smokelike column proved to be alive, a moving stream of bats from down in the darkness of the caves.

With a young Mexican boy as his only companion, Jim White made extensive explorations of the caverns, insuring success in his return by leaving behind a trail of smudge marks and strings. Many long stretches of string still remain in the less-visited portions of the caverns, mute testimony of the intrepid courage of the young cowboy whose love of adventure made him the pioneer explorer of the world's greatest caverns.

After discovering Carlsbad Caverns, Jim White never missed an opportunity to take visitors into his find and share its beauties with them. Their reports of the size and magnificence of the underground chambers finally resulted in examination of the caverns by Robert Holly, of the Government Land Office, and Dr. Willis T. Lee, of the Geological Survey, both of the Department of the Interior. These men were greatly impressed with the magnificence of the caverns. Shortly afterward Dr. Lee led the National Geographic Society expedition into them. His reports, published in the National Geographic Magazine of January 1924 and September 1925, gave the caverns national publicity.

PREHISTORIC SANDAL FOUND

Long before the first white man entered Carlsbad Caverns, prehistoric people knew of their existence. Recent trail construction uncovered a sandal a short distance inside the entrance which has been identified as the handiwork of the Basket Makers who inhabited the region, probably before the time of Christ.

Bat flight as seen from inside caverns entrance. Boles photo.

THE BAT SPECTACLE

The bat spectacle which first claimed the attention of Jim White is now one of the great attractions of the Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

Each evening at dusk, except during the winter period of hibernation, millions of bats come forth from a cavern 180 feet below the surface, flying in a spiral through the great entrance arch, and streaming off over the rim in a southerly direction, later to separate into flocks which disappear in the distance for a night's foraging. Beginning about sunset, the flight outward lasts for about 3 hours. The bats return before the following dawn.

It has been estimated that 3,000,000 bats during one night's foray consume a little over 11-1/2 tons of night-flying insects, such as various kinds of moths, beetles, flies, and mosquitoes.

During the day the bats hang by their hind legs, heads downward, in great clusters high on the walls and ceilings of their particular portion of the caverns. From October until March they hibernate, hanging in this position and seeming almost lifeless.

There are five kinds of bats in the caverns, but by far the greater number are Mexican free-tailed bats (Tadarida mexicana). Their common name of free-tailed bat is descriptive of the tail, which projects about 1 inch beyond the skin that stretches between the hind legs.

During the latter part of June or early in July the young, one or two in number, are born. The newly born bat instinctively clings to the under side of the mother, and is carried about in this position even when she is flying in search of insects.

The portion of the caverns occupied by the bats is a long corridor extending a quarter of a mile eastward from the main entrance, and is not open to visitors. The presence of such large numbers of bats was responsible for the accumulation of great deposits of guano. Between 1901 and 1921, before the caverns were in Government ownership, about 100,000 tons of guano were taken out by a fertilizer company and sold to citrus growers. It is believed that this was accumulated over a period of many centuries.

In some portions of the caverns not now inhabited by bats there are guano stains, showing that formerly bats occupied these portions of it. In the Papoose Chamber, many years ago, a bat died while clinging near the top of a stalagmite, and the growth of the formation sealed the little mammal in a stony tomb.

A talk on the bats by a ranger naturalist is given each evening at the caverns entrance just before the flight begins.

Century plant (left), Desert Flora (right). Boles photo.

THE DESERT PLANTS

The region about the Carlsbad Caverns National Park contains many interesting desert plants. With an annual rainfall of only 10 inches, the little water which does fall runs off quickly, because the limestone outcrops at the surface and there is little soil to retain the water. The many peculiar forms of plants show adaptations resulting from the necessity for the retention of water, the lessening of evaporation, and the protection of the plant from being eaten. For instance, the thickened joints of the prickly-pear cactus, the spherical or cylindrical forms of other cactus varieties, and the thickened leaves of the purslanes enable all these plants to store water whenever the roots have the opportunity to absorb it. Most of the cactuses and the allthorn have lost their leaves altogether while the ocotillo sheds its small leaves during the driest part of the year, thus reducing the surface from which evaporation may take place. As a means of reducing evaporation, many of the plants of the region, like the various kinds of catclaws and blue-thorn, have developed very small leaves. In other cases the leaves may have a waxy surface, as in the goat bean, or varnished surfaces, as in the creosote bush, or a hairy covering, as in the sages. Plants such as the cactuses, allthorn, blue-thorn, catclaws, ocotillo, and algireta are protected by their spines or thorns from being eaten.

The caverns visitor who comes in April or May may be fortunate enough see many plants in full bloom, plants which flower for only a short time, cotton seed, and then for months give no evidence of their existence.

Visitors on nature trip.

NATURE TRIP

Visitors to Carlsbad Caverns during the spring and summer months should try to arrive at the caverns entrance by 9 a. m. (mountain time) so that they may accompany the ranger naturalist on the nature trip. Each morning this trip is conducted over a nature trail where every species of desert plant native to this locality may be found. The ranger naturalist in charge relates interesting facts and peculiarities of the various plants as they are seen on the trail. Questions about the desert flora are welcomed and cheerfully answered.

The nature trip is becoming more popular each season and is especially appealing to those interested in botany. This trip is commenced promptly at 9 a. m. during the months of May, June, July, August, and September, and on such other days as there may be visitors wishing to make the trip and the condition of the vegetation may warrant.

The following are some of the very conspicuous plants which may be seen in a few minutes' walk from the caverns entrance. The cactus garden near the ticket office contains all of the cactuses, as well as a few of the other plants of the region.

Juniper, cedar, Juniperus monosperma; popotillo, jointfir, Mormon tea Ephedra torreyana; Spanish dagger, la palma, Yucca macrocarpa; soapweed, palmilla, Yucca elata; sotol, Dasylirion wheeleri; beargrass, Nolina microcarpa; lechuguilla, little centuryplant, little mescal, Agave lechuguilla; mescal, centuryplant, Agave parryi; black walnut, Fuglans rupestris; hackberry, Celtis reticulata; mulberry, Morus microphylla; catclaws, Acacia greggii, Mimosa biuncifers; mesquite, Prosopis glandulosa; goat beans, Broussonetia secundiflora, Rhoeidium microphylla; soapberry, Sapindus drummondi; New Mexican buckeye, Ungnadia speciosa; blue-thorn, Zizyphus lycioides; candle flame, devils-walkingstick, ocotillo, Fouqueria splendens; desertwillow, Chilopsis linearis; allthorn, Koeberlinia spinosa; pricklypear, Opuntia engelmannii, Opuntia phaeacantha; cane cactus, Opuntia imbricata; tasajello, Opuntia leptocaulis; brown-flowered pataya, Echinocereus chloranthus; yellow-flowered pataya, Echinocereus dasyacanthus; devils-pincushion or strawberry cactus, Echinocereus stramoneus; claret cup, Echinocereus triglochidatus; melon cactus, Echinocactus horizonthalonius, Neomammillaria hemispherica, Neomammillaria meicantha; devils head, manco caballo, horse crippler of the Rio Grande, Homalocephalus texensis; turks head or fishhook cactus, Ferocactus uncinatus; button cactus, Epithelantha micromeris, Corypantha macromeris, Escobara sneedii.

WEATHER CONDITIONS

Carlsbad Caverns National Park is open throughout the year. Although the caverns temperature remains stationary at 56°, the surface temperature runs the gamut from nearly zero weather in winter to over 100° in summer. Therefore, clothes of ordinary weight, plus a light sweater or other wrap, are needed for the trip through the caverns at all times of the year. While on the surface, clothes should follow the season. No special clothes are needed for the caverns trip, since trails and stairways are followed the entire distance. Low-heeled shoes, however, are advisable.

The Queen's Chamber. Kennicott photo.

THE UNDERGROUND TRIP

At the present time 7 miles of underground corridors and great chambers in the Carlsbad Caverns National Park are open to visitors. The entrance is through a natural arch, 90 feet wide and 40 feet high in its greatest dimensions. Leading to the entrance is an excellent trail, its many graceful curves insuring an easy grade. Until recently a series of wooden stairs, with over 700 steps, led down to the main cavern. Now the greater portion of these steps has been replaced by trails similar to those leading to the entrance arch, thus both simplifying the descent and adding to the appearance of the caverns entrance.

The main corridor of the cave, just inside the entrance, is immense, but, apart from its great size, has nothing of particular importance to offer when compared with the beauties of the chambers beyond.

The trail through the main corridor extends for almost a mile, and leads to the Green Lake Room, which derives its name from a small green pool alongside the trail.

"Veiled Statue" in Green Lake Room. Grant and Kennicott photo.

The trail then passes through a short artificial tunnel to the King's Palace, thought by many to be the most beautiful chamber in this or any other series of caverns. It is almost circular in form and is separated from the adjoining chambers by curtains and partitions of gleaming onyx.

A natural "keyhole" leads from the King's Palace to the Queen's Chamber, which is particularly famous for its elephant ears or draperies, some hanging straight, others draped or folded back. Some of these are so delicate and translucent that a light placed behind them brings out faint tints of pink and tea rose. In this chamber the helictite formation is unusually interesting, the small sticklike formations interlacing in an effect resembling an impenetrable thicket of thorns.

In natural sequence comes the Papoose's Chamber, a beautiful little room which leads back to the King's Palace, whence the trail leads over a series of winding terraces to the lunchroom, at the beginning of the Big Room. The lunchroom is unique in cave developments.

Water has been piped from the surface and is available in sanitary drinking fountains; tables and benches have been built, and comfort stations installed nearby. A stop of about half an hour is made here each day for lunch.

Leaving the lunchroom, the visitor enters the Big Room itself, the most impressive of the many chambers of the caverns. It is nearly 4,000 feet long and 625 feet wide, and at one place the ceiling arches 350 feet above. In this room the formations are massive as well as magnificent. The stalactites vary from almost needlelike proportions to huge chandeliers; the stalagmites are equally varied, although of different contours. Here is found Giant Dome, which bears a striking resemblance to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Another great formation is the majestic Rock of Ages, where each day the visitors stop to hear a brief talk on the park, generally followed by the singing of "Rock of Ages." The scene is one of great impressiveness. Fountain basins lined with masses of crystalline onyx marble resembling lily pads; tall, graceful stalagmites resembling the totem poles of the Alaskan Indians; and masses reminding one of snow-banked forests add to the beauty of the scene.

Central formations in the Papoose Room. Grant and Kennicott photo.

From the Big Room the return trip to the surface is made in about an hour and a half. Throughout the tour one finds fresh changing air, with a temperature, winter and summer, that seldom varies from 56° F.

Properly to cover the 7 miles of the caverns now open to the public requires about 5 hours, with a half-hour luncheon stop. Before the regular cave trip starts, at 10:30 a. m. (mountain time), a brief talk is made by a Government official at the caverns entrance.

Another "walking" trip starts at 11:20 a. m., especially to accommodate bus passengers arriving from El Paso. Visitors arriving too late for the regular trip at 10:30 are also included on this tour. It is of necessity a faster trip, as the introductory talk is omitted; however, the same route is covered as on the first trip and the two parties reach the underground lunchroom at the same time. The regular trip at 10:30 is recommended.

An elevator trip is available at 12:30 p. m. People physically unable to walk through the caverns are urged to make use of the elevator. Even though portions of the caverns are not seen on this trip, nevertheless the most impressive portion of it is viewed in the tour of the "Big Room". Park rangers conduct the party throughout the entire trip, there being about 1 ranger for every 30 people. Visitors are invited to ask questions of the rangers, who are glad to impart authentic information.

Giant Dome. Boles photo.

FLOOD LIGHTING OF THE CAVERNS

The flood lighting of the Carlsbad Caverns is a masterpiece of electrical illumination. At no time during the underground trip does the visitor see a switch, a cable, or a flood light; all have been artfully concealed behind rock shields, sending their beams to the ceilings and to the formations, from which they are reflected back to the trails.

The 7 miles of trails open to visitors are divided into 24 lighting sections, controlled by a switch at each end. As a party enters a certain section the front guide pushes a button and the lights flash on for 1,000 feet ahead. Then, after the party has passed through, the back guide pushes another button and the lights of this section fade away as the front guide flashes on the lights of the next 1,000-foot section ahead. During the tour of the caverns only two or three adjacent sections are illuminated at one time. Despite the fact that the lighting system is divided into sections which generally are turned on separately, the power house on the surface generates sufficient current to light all the circuits at one time.

The caverns lights range from 50 to 2,000 candlepower, depending upon the type and degree of illumination required for the particular feature involved.

The lighting system was installed by electricians of the National Park Service, ably assisted by specialists from the Westinghouse Co., whose valuable aid was contributed to the Government in the interests of the visiting public.

ELEVATOR SERVICE

In addition to the system of broad, easy trails, the Government has provided elevator service between the surface and the 750-foot level by means of two high-speed passenger elevators, with a combined capacity of 500 persons an hour.

These are the second longest single-lift elevators in the United States, being surpassed only by those in the Empire State Building in New York City. The speed of the elevator is 800 feet per minute.

The elevators were designed with the same features for safety and comfort of passengers as are embodied in the latest installations in modern office buildings. When once in motion the elevator will automatically stop at top or bottom. Telephonic communication from the cage at all elevations may be made with the surface. The cage may be controlled from the building at the surface as well as by the operator in the cage.

The use of the elevator by able-bodied persons is discouraged as much as possible, as visitors who make the entire 7-mile trip on foot gain far more than those who use the elevators. Many visitors make the trip down on foot, and then return to the surface by the elevator, and this is recommended for those lacking sufficient strength to walk the entire distance.

Col. Thomas Burns, a centenarian, of Burkett, Tex., made the caverns trip in July 1932, just one week after celebrating his one-hundredth birth day. Colonel Burns walked the entire tour of the caverns unassisted, using the elevator only on the up trip.

View in lower cavern, 200 feet underground.