MOUNT RAINIER Trail Guide 1941

Summary of Trail Mileages

There are 26.3 miles of the Wonderland Trail in this section of the park. Extending from Mystic Lake to the North Puyallup River, the mileages are: Mystic Lake to Cataract Creek Trailside Shelter, 3.7 miles; from this shelter to Mowich Lake Trail intersection, 8.1 miles; Mowich Lake Trail intersection to Sunset Park Trailside Shelter, 9.5 miles; and from this shelter to the end of the West Side Highway at the bridge across the North Puyallup River, 5 miles.

Things To See Along The Trail

Mystic Lake, elevation 5,800 feet, is a blue gem of clear water amid pleasant surroundings of meadowland, with the rugged, rocky outline of Old Desolate Mountain to the north. Trout fishing, picture taking, hiking, or "geologizing" opportunities in this section of Mount Rainier National Park may tempt the hiker to spend some time at Mystic Lake Trailside Shelter.

From Mystic Lake toward Carbon River, the Wonderland Trail rises steeply to a divide in alpine-like meadow country where may be had unsurpassed views of Willis Wall, named for Professor Bailey Willis, who explored this section of Mount Rainier. Willis Wall is the head wall of a glacial cirque of such enormous proportions as to stagger the imagination. At its feet begin the ice masses of the Carbon Glacier which have helped to gouge out this tremendous 1-1/2-mile wide amphitheatre in the side of volcanic Mount Rainier. The head wall of the cirque is 3,600 feet high.

But speculations into the "nature of things" must give way to practical thoughts of traveling on, even though one hates to leave the warmth of a grassy seat in the shelter of clumps of Engelmann spruce, alpine fir, and mountain hemlock. The trail now leads steeply downward into a narrow meadow called Moraine Park. Here an old vegetated lateral moraine blots out the sight of Carbon Glacier so that one seems far away from its ice and rock debris. Yet all this is close by, as is soon revealed where the trail dips down sharply past the snout of the glacier. The terminus of the Carbon Glacier is about 3,500 feet in elevation, which may be the lowest point of glacial ice anywhere in continental United States.

From Cataract Creek Trailside Shelter the Wonderland Trail winds up by a series of switchbacks until the high country is reached. Along its lower part are heavy stands of Douglas fir, western hemlock, and western red cedar. A short side trail (at a point about a mile from the shelter cabin) leads to Cataract Falls, a pretty, clear waterfall of about 50 feet in a setting of trees, ferns, and moss-covered rocks.

Up again out of the trees and into the sunshine of the alpine meadows is a land of flowers and cool, pure water. Here are miles of open trail through Seattle and Spray Parks. In a few spots the trail reaches rocky country, snowfields, and above-timber-line areas. Here the trail is in the Arctic-Alpine Zone which is characterized by steadily diminishing species of plant and animal life, until finally barren rock, snow, and ice are reached.

However, one finds many forms of interesting plant and animal life even at these higher elevations. There are many alpine flowers blooming in protected spots. Lupine and mountain phlox are common. The Arctic-Alpine Zone is also the habitat of occasional coyotes, marmots, and ground squirrels. Among the birds may be seen pipits, rosy finches, and pine siskins. Here and there along the trail are smoothly polished rocks upon whose surface are lines ("striations," the geologists call them), a proof positive of glacial polishing and scraping in times past. Along these high open trails one finds the peace and well-being that comes with warm sun, superb views, the sound of trickling water, flowers, and the absence of man-made "civilization."

Back again into the trees, a short side trail gives one a view of Spray Falls, twisting down over a wide area of red-purple rock. A little farther along is another short tenth-of-a-mile side trail which takes one out to a view spot on Eagle Cliffs. More trees and continued down hill "coasting" and the Mowich Lake Trail intersection is reached. It is four-tenths of a mile from here to beautiful Mowich Lake, which occupies an old glacial cirque and is the largest body of water in Mount Rainier National Park. Mowich is a Chinook Indian word meaning "deer."

From Mowich Lake Trail inter section the Wonderland Trail follows down through the trees to the North and South Mowich Rivers about 4 miles from the lake. At this low elevation (about 2,700 feet) the flora belongs to the lowest life zone represented in the park—the Transition Zone, a great contrast to the Arctic-Alpine Zone of Spray and Seattle Parks. In the Transition Zone one finds such plants as sword ferns, devilsclub, alders, vine maple, and willows. Occasional cottonwood trees grow along the river banks, looking very much out of place amongst the conifers. Both the North and South Mowich Rivers are glacial streams subject to sudden fluctuations in flow and so it is that they may sometimes be forded easily in the morning and by afternoon be muddy torrents. Bridges and foot logs built by the National Park Service are continually being washed away, or what is just as bad, the streams change their courses, leaving bridges high and dry.

After one leaves the moist-smelling lowlands of the Transition Zone, the trail again pushes upward. As the roar of the Mowich Rivers grows fainter in the distance, an old burn is traversed and one gets an intimate glimpse of the extensive damage done by forest fires. Next point of interest is the Golden Lakes country. There is a trailside shelter here. A stay in this area may reward the fisherman with a frying pan full of tasty trout from the numerous lakes of the vicinity.

Sunset Park is huckleberry country in an old burn. A 2-mile side trail leads one to the Colonnades Lookout where the guard will be happy not only to see visitors but to show how the "eyes of the National Park Service" function in spotting fires. The Colonnades Lookout gives one a commanding view of "The Mountain," of the valley country to the west, and, on certain clear days, of the Puget Sound area backed by the snow-clad Olympic Mountains in Olympic National Park. The main trail ends at the road bridge across the North Puyallup River. Further description of the Wonderland Trail from this point will be found in Section 2.

Other Trails Of The Carbon River Section

Ipsut Creek Trail

From the Ipsut Creek Trail intersection with the Carbon River Road, it is 5.8 miles to Mowich Lake. In this distance the trail rises from about 2,500 feet to 5,000 feet. The hiker passes through virgin forests where individual specimens of Douglas fir are over 6 feet in diameter and more than 200 feet high. There are occasional giant western red cedar trees from 8 to 12 feet in diameter. Through the woods are scattered moss-covered boulders apparently far away from their point of origin. Small creeks, cascades, rock slide areas, the penetrating squeaks of elusive conies, the thick thimbleberry bushes, steep overhanging cliffs—these are the things that make the Ipsut Creek Trail interesting. About a mile and a half from Mowich Lake is a branch trail (1.7 miles) to Tolmie Peak Lookout and clear blue Eunice Lake at its foot. As with other lookouts in the park, this one "looks out" over piled-up miles of rugged park and forest land, with the snowy bulk of Mount Rainier ever present except when hidden by fog clouds. Retracing the 1.7 miles to the intersection of the Ipsut Creek Trail, the hiker is soon on the last lap—a mile and a half to Mowich Lake.

Northern Loop Trail

From Lake James Trailside Shelter to the Carbon River Road is 6.2 miles. Lake James, as well as adjacent Lake Ethel, offers trout fishing. From Lake James this section of the Northern Loop Trail continues through forests until it reaches more open country. A branch trail (0.9 miles) leads to the Natural Bridge, an arch of rock about 200 feet long and 10 feet wide. This northern section of Mount Rainier National Park is primitive country.

From the Natural Bridge intersection the trail continues through Windy Gap, then down again past Yellowstone Cliffs and eventually across the Carbon River, and ends in the Carbon River Road. The Yellowstone Cliffs section of the park is good mountain goat country.

CARBON RIVER SECTION OF THE WONDERLAND TRAIL (SECTION 1)
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