ITINERARY
Lake Park is another important town of the lake region, and although no water is visible from the train there are one or two ponds near by, and some of the finest lakes of the region lie a short distance to the south. Lake Park is on the edge of the prairies. The trees are small and are confined largely to the watercourses. Almost all the land is under a high state of cultivation, and fields of wheat and hay abound on every side. The country here is a gently rolling upland with the valleys cut to a depth of 50 feet or more below the general level. At Manitoba Junction the Northern Pacific line running to Crookston, Minn., Grand Forks, N. Dak., and Winnipeg, Canada, turns to the right (north). At this place the traveler enters the valley of Buffalo Creek and can not see the upland country, which, however, is much the same in character as the country east of the junctionthat is, it is rolling, but is cut by the valleys of the larger streams. The railway follows Buffalo Creek through the village of Hawley, but the valley grows deeper toward the west, and little of the country outside of the immediate valley can be seen from the train. If the traveler had been attempting to cross the continent in the closing stages of the glacial epoch by the route which he is now following, he would have been confronted, when he reached the place where Muskoda now stands (see sheet 4, p. 40), by a vast lake which then occupied the valley of Red River. The only passageway around it would have been by a wide detour to the south, for the lake extended into Canada for several hundred miles and was bounded on the north by the impassable front of the great continental glacier. As the lake has completely disappeared the reader may be skeptical about its existence or wonder upon what evidence its presence in a former age has been determined. Unfortunately the track is so far below the general surface of the upland that there little opportunity to observe details, but if the traveler could carefully examine the ground he would easily recognize the shore of this ancient lake just before he reaches the station at Muskoda. This old shore consists of a ridge of gravel which was heaped up by the waves that beat upon its western side. The large gravel pit which the railroad has excavated in this ridge to procure ballast can be seen from the Muskoda station.
The lake was named by the geologist Warren Upham in honor of Louis Agassiz, who was the first to make a systematic study of glaciers and glacial phenomena.1 The beach at Muskoda is called the Herman beach. It was formed when the water of Lake Agassiz stood at its highest level and consequently marks the line between the unmodified glacial topography above and the smooth surface of the old lake basin below. The difference in the topography may not be noticeable on the east side of the valley because of the unfavorable outlook, but on the opposite side of the valley west of Fargo the difference is very striking and can readily be seen from the train.
Between mileposts 242 and 243 the railway emerges from the now shallow valley of Buffalo River, and the traveler may obtain his first view of the famous Red River valley, which has been referred to frequently as the "granary of the world," but which was once a lake about 50 miles wide at this point and nearly 700 miles long. The silt deposited in this lake gives the valley its wonderfully smooth surface and its great fertility. During the highest stage of the lake Buffalo River built just below Muskoda a delta of considerable size, and it is from this delta that the first view of the valley may be obtained. At a later stage, when the water of the lake was at a lower level, the waves cut away the front of the delta and greatly increased the natural slope of the valley side, as shown in figure 4. The railway engineers found difficulty in getting down this slope without loops and curves, so a long, high fill has been made which gives a uniform grade from top to bottom.1 The weight of the fill, however, proved to be too great for the soft mud at the bottom of the old lake bed, and it is still settling and throwing up a ridge of the soft material on each side.
From the high fill the traveler can see something of the great extent of the valleyits level floor stretching mile after mile without the least eminence or depression to break its regularityand some of the fine farms that have made it famous. Drilling for water has shown that originally the surface of the valley was uneven, much like the country on both sides. At a later date the valley was filled by a great glacier that came down from the north, grinding and scouring away many of the projections and filling the depressions with the waste material; and then as the last smoothing process the fine mud carried by the streams settled in the lake, giving the valley its present smooth surface.
The material laid down in the waters of Lake Agassiz is so soft and fine that it is washed away with great rapidity when it is exposed to the action of the elements. Ordinarily the surface vegetation protects it, but when this is removed disastrous results follow. In 1895 a wagon road was graded east of Red River and a short distance north of the railway near Glyndon for about 6 miles. The farmers at once began to drain their fields into the roadside ditch, which was deepened and widened so rapidly by the consequent erosion that in four years the road had been destroyed for nearly a mile and in its place there was a channel 80 feet wide and 25 feet deep.
Dilworth is a division terminal of the railway, established to relieve the congestion of the yards at Fargo, where the terminal was formerly located. In the Red River valley may be seen some of the magical effects of the mirage that is so striking a feature of an arid or semiarid region. Warren Upham describes it as follows:
These appearances are due to refraction and reflection from layers of air of different density, such as are often formed above a wide expanse of level country in warm weather.
The last town in Minnesota through which the train passes is Moorhead, named in honor of William G. Moorhead, a former director of the railway company. Between this town and Fargo, N. Dak. runs Red River, the boundary line between the two States, a deep, sluggish stream that generally is heavily charged with mud derived from soft materials deposited in the ancient lake. This mud gives to the water a brownish-red color.
North Dakota comprises an area of 70,837 square miles. It was admitted to the Union in 1889, and at the census of 1910 it had a population of 577,056. It is primarily an agricultural State, but from time to time, as conditions have changed, there has been a corresponding change in its leading industries. At the time of the first permanent settlement the whole State consisted of one vast open range which furnished grazing in abundance for the herds of wild animals that roamed over it. The white man saw the natural fitness of the region for grazing, and soon cattle, horses, and sheep were feeding in place of the deer and buffalo. In the Red River valley farming early received a great stimulus from the officials of the Northern Pacific Railway, and before many years this valley, from its head to the Canadian line, was one vast sea of wheat. Farming was also carried on in other valleys to a minor extent, but for a long time the region west of Missouri River was considered suitable only for grazing, as the annual rainfall (16 inches) was thought to be too small for raising crops. The discovery in recent years that by proper methods of cultivation most of the moisture in the soil could be conserved and rendered available for agriculture has worked a wonderful change in the appearance of this country, for now almost all the land is under fence and the region west of Missouri River contains many fine farms and thriving towns. The principal crops are wheat, oats, and flax, and the raising of domestic animals is still an important industry. According to the census of 1910 the value of all farm products for the year 1909 was $205,000,000, of which $180,000,000 was produced directly from the crops and $14,000,000 from domestic animals. During the same year the value of manufactured products amounted to $19,000,000. North Dakota is well supplied with lignite. This is a low-grade fuel, but it is of very great value for domestic use on these treeless plains. Almost every section of land in the part of the State lying west of Missouri River is underlain by lignite, and it is estimated that the State contains 697,900,000,000 tons of this fuel. In 1913 the value of the lignite mined commercially amounted to $765,105.
Fargo is the most important town in the Red River valley and the largest in the State of North Dakota. It was named for William G. Fargo, of Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express. Fargo is the seat of the North Dakota Agricultural College and Experiment Station and is noted as one of the great farm-machinery markets in the United States. The climate of Fargo is about the same as that of the Red River valley as a whole. The winters are frequently severe, the mercury registering 40° below zero, and the summers are hot, ranging from 90° to 105°. The mean annual precipitation is about 20 to 24 inches, compared with 28 inches at St. Paul and 15 or 16 inches in the western part of the State. The Red River valley, including that part which lies in Canada, was one of the first to be explored in this part of the country. Lake Winnipeg, at its mouth, in Canada, was part of the great highway by which the French voyageurs penetrated the country west of Lake Superior in the early days of the trapper and trader. The earliest authentic record of exploration is that of Verandrye, who made an unsuccessful attempt to cross the continent in 1738-1742. French traders doubtless followed in his footsteps, but they left few if any records of their experiences or of the country traversed. In the early years of the nineteenth century David Thompson and Alexander Henry, of the Northwest Fur Co., pushed their way up the Red River valley into what is now North Dakota and Minnesota; and in 1812 the Earl of Selkirk made the first settlement in the vicinity of Winnipeg. Many French traders probably found their way south into that part of the Red River valley lying in North Dakota, for Lewis and Clark mention their presence on the Missouri as early as 1804. Not much is known of the rocks underlying the Red River valley, for they are effectually concealed by the glacial drift and by the sediment deposited in Lake Agassiz, but their presence here and there has been revealed by deep drilling. The deepest well which was sunk near Moorhead penetrated lake sediment and glacial drift to a depth of 220 feet, Cretaceous shale with some sandstone for 150 feet, and the underlying granite to a depth of more than 1,500 feet. This region is therefore near the eastern edge of the great mass of Cretaceous strata which extends as an unbroken sheet to the Rocky Mountains and which can be seen at many places along the Northern Pacific Railway. The sea in which these materials were laid down must at some stage of its existence have extended farther east than the Red River valley, for a few exposures of these rocks have been found in the valley of the Mississippi. (See route map, sheet 2, p. 26.) A few years ago a traveler crossing the old lake bottom just before the wheat harvest would have seen mile after mile of grain, which on a clear breezy day would have looked much like the waves rolling across the water, and he could almost have imagined Lake Agassiz to be still in existence. In recent years the crops in this region have become more diversified and now instead of the unbroken stand of wheat that stretched to the horizon line, the traveler sees interspersed with the wheat other grains and flax, and only here and there is the wheat grown in large areas. The rich black soil extends in almost unbroken regularity across the valley and it is under a high state of cultivation, even to the very edge of the railroad track. Probably there are few regions in the world in which the soil is more fertile than that of the Red River valley. The silt where it is wet and compacted has much the character of clay, but it differs from clay in that it contains fine sand, powdered limestone, and carbonaceous matter, which make it less coherent. There are some tracts of very compact and heavy soil upon the level bottoms, ranging in area from a few square yards to a few square miles, that are known as "gumbo spots." On account of the impermeable character of the clay, drainage is difficult and in places alkaline salts tend to accumulate.
West of Maple River, which the railway crosses near the village of Mapleton, the land rises steadily westward, but the surface of the old lake bed is so smooth and the ascent so regular that it is scarcely perceptible to the eye. This is a region of great farms, and one of the largest and most noted of these is the Dalrymple farm, between Mapleton and Casselton, comprises acres which 21,000 of cultivated land. As these big holdings were the pioneers in the Red River valley and led directly to its agricultural development, their history may prove to be interesting at this place. About 1870 the banking firm of Jay Cooke & Co. became the financial agent of the Northern Pacific Railroad Co. and advertised widely the great agricultural possibilities of the region to be traversed by the railway. Its glowing statements were attacked through the press and otherwise, and much skepticism was expressed as to whether or not the country was of any value for agriculture. In order to meet these criticisms, certain members of the Northern Pacific directorate determined that they themselves must furnish incontestable proof that the land could be farmed to advantage. T. H. Canfield purchased 5,500 acres at Lake Park, Minn.; Charlemagne Tower, 3,000 acres at Glyndon, Minn.; and Benjamin P. Cheney and George W. Cass, 6,000 acres at Casselton, N. Dak. These farms were at once put under expert cultivation, and the result of the experiment showed the Lake Park region and the Red River valley to contain some of the finest wheat lands in the world. The demonstration of this fact caused a large and steady immigration to this region in the years immediately following.
The town of Casselton is situated in the heart of the great wheat belt and was named for George W. Cass, a former president of the Northern Pacific Co. In the vicinity of Casselton and westward for some distance many flowing water wells have been drilled. These wells derive their supply from two sourcesthe glacial drift and the underlying Cretaceous rocks. The water obtained from the glacial drift is of fairly good quality and can be obtained at depths ranging from 40 to 200 feet, but the amount of water varies considerably and several of the wells have ceased to flow. The water from the Cretaceous rocks is slightly salty and not suited for irrigation, but can be used for domestic purposes. The depth of the producing wells ranges from 250 to 500 feet, and the flow of water is more constant than that from the glacial drift. The water-bearing rock is supposed to be the Dakota sandstone, which belongs at the base of the Upper Cretaceous. The water is supposed to enter the Dakota sandstone in Wyoming, where the sandstone is upturned against the Rocky Mountains, or in the region of the Black Hills. It follows the sandstone bed beneath the Great Plains and appears where the sandstone rises and approaches the surface in eastern North Dakota.
The village of Wheatland, appropriately named, is situated at the place where the railway crosses the lowest prominent beach of Lake Agassiz, the houses in the eastern part of the village and a cemetery north of the track being situated on the beach ridge. When the surface of the lake stood at this level the water was 90 feet deep at Fargo, in the center of the valley, and it remained at this height long enough for the waves to heap up a distinct ridge of sand and fine gravel. This is known as the Campbell beach, from the town of that name in Wilkin County, Minn., through which it extends. West of Wheatland there are, here and there, traces of similar beaches, showing that Lake Agassiz stood at different levels above that of the Campbell stage, but at none of them long enough to form a decided and well-marked beach, except at the highest of the series. This is known as the Herman beach. It can easily be seen from the train just 5 miles west of the Campbell beach, or three-fourths of a mile west of Magnolia. (See fig. 5.) This beach ridge is even better developed than the Campbell beach and is marked by an old gravel pit on the right (north) of the track. The ridge is 15 feet high and about 150 feet wide on top. In the pit the beds of gravel dip about 20° to the west, or away from the open water of the lake, showing that the waves carried the sand and gravel over the top and deposited them on the back slope of the ridge. When Lake Agassiz stood at this level the water at Fargo was about 175 feet deep, but it rose no higher, because at that stage it found an outlet to the Mississippi through the valley of Minnesota River.
From the Herman beach a comprehensive view can be had of the broad expanse of the Red River valley. Above the level of the beach the old surface of till and outwash gravel is in its original condition, not having been smoothed and covered by a coating of mud, as was that of the submerged area.
West of the Herman beach the railway crosses a low, broad ridge by a deep cut in glacial till and sand. This cut is 4 miles long, extending as far as the village of Buffalo, and it affords excellent exposures of the materials transported by the ice. The low ridge through which the cut is made is a faint moraine, marking the position of the front of the glacier1 that occupied the valley of Red River before it became a lake, as described on page 32.
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