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Historical Background

Building Fort Mandan (1804-5)

One of the first tasks of Lewis and Clark, particularly because of the onset of cold weather, was to survey the area to find a suitable spot for winter camp. Sites reconnoitered on October 28, or 2 days after arrival at the Mandan villages, and on October 30 were rejected because of lack of suitable timber or game or distance from the two rivers. On November 2 a place was selected. It was located on the east, or north, bank of the Missouri about 6 air miles below the mouth of the Knife on a point of low ground sheltered by bluffs. It was directly opposite the lower of the five Indian villages and 2 miles away from it.

The next day, watched by many Mandans who lived in the village across the river, the men set to work with their axes building a triangular-shaped structure named Fort Mandan. It apparently consisted of two rows of huts, or rooms. At the rear, they joined a small semicircular structure, the top of which provided a sentry post and the lower story of which consisted of one or two storerooms. At the front, or third, side, which probably faced the river, a palisade, or picket-type fence, equipped with a gate, connected the two rows of huts. Each of the rows contained four units, measuring individually 14 feet square. The roofs, built in shed fashion and providing a loft over the rows of huts, rose from the inner side of the rows to a height of about 18 feet on the outer side. The backs of the huts connected with the peak of the loft.

The fort was not finished until Christmas Day. But, the weather growing increasingly cold, on November 16 the men had moved into their quarters and 4 days later the two leaders into theirs. This was none too soon, for on the 13th ice had run in the river and it had snowed all day. The fort was strong enough to hold off any Indian war party. Fearful of Sioux raids and suspicious of the Minitaris, however, the two captains mounted the swivel cannon from the bow of the keelboat on the fort; refused Indians admittance after dark; kept a sentry on duty at all times; and subsequent to February 7 kept the gate locked at night.

Sheheke's Mandan village in 1832, as portrayed by Catlin. Lewis and Clark had visited there during the winter of 1804-5. The burial ground is on the riven bottom beyond the village, about midway between its far edge and the distant bluffs. Note the bull boats on top of several of the earthlodges, and the varying manner in which the Indians used the roofs. (Oil by Catlin. Smithsonian Institution.)

Relations with the Mandans and Minitaris

Another matter that almost immediately occupied Lewis and Clark on their arrival at the villages was the establishment of good relations with the Mandans and Minitaris. On October 29, only 3 days after their arrival, the two captains held the most impressive council they had yet staged. [75] It was the first of many with the tribes.

Lewis and Clark managed to obtain redress for the stolen traps of the two French trappers who had joined them near the mouth of the Cannonball. More important, the commanders, working closely with Tabeau at the Arikara villages, arranged a peace they hoped would be lasting between the Arikaras and the Mandans and Minitaris. On November 2 a Mandan-Minitari delegation traveled to the Arikara villages with the Arikara chief who had accompanied the expedition to the Mandan villages. Four days later, Lewis and Clark sent Gravelines and French boatmen Baptiste La Jeunesse and Paul Primaut to help in the negotiations.

One of the few drawings made from life of an Indian identified in the Lewis and Clark journals. This painting (1832) by Catlin portrays Black Moccasin, a Minitari chief, who was then more than 100 years old. (Oil by Catlin. Smithsonian Institution.)

Dealings with British traders

The Indian chiefs were not the only ones with whom Lewis and Clark had dealings during the long winter months. Upon their arrival, they found that various British and French-Canadian traders from posts in the Assiniboine River area in present Canada about 9 days north of the Mandan villages were well established with the natives. As time went on, the traders came and went. Most of them represented the North West Company: René Jessaume, Toussaint Charbonneau, Hugh Heney, Hugh McCracken, François Antoine Larocque, Charles McKenzie, and Baptiste Lafrance. Two represented the Hudson's Bay Company: G. Henderson and George Bunch. The company affiliations, if any, of Baptiste Lepage and a man named Garrow cannot be determined.

A strange combination of animosity and friendliness characterized relations between Lewis and Clark and these traders. Despite the tension and suspicion that colored their associations and their basic differences, which they recognized, they exchanged friendly visits, performed favors for each other, and conducted frank discussions. The two captains gained considerable information about the nature and extent of the British fur trade, including the tribes involved. The traders tried to learn all they could of the motives of the expedition.

But all was not harmonious. The Britishers, recognizing that the visit of Lewis and Clark was probably a first step in the extension of U.S. authority and trade, tried to stir up trouble between the explorers and the Indians, made anti-American statements to them, and gave them British flags and medals. The two commanders warned the traders to cease these activities, made it clear that they were operating on U.S. soil, and hinted that the U.S. Government might establish a "factory" in the area for commerce with the Indians, who were under its jurisdiction. On the other hand, the captains said the British were free to conduct their business unless they violated U.S. regulations.

Lewis' interest in early asserting national sovereignty is revealed in his letter of October 31, sent the next day with McCracken, to Charles Chaboillez, head of the Department of the Assiniboine for the North West Company. This letter, with which was enclosed a copy of Lewis and Clark's British passport, explained their mission, stated their plans to winter at the Mandan villages, stressed that the U.S. Government would extend its protection to the British traders who were operating in its territory, and solicited any aid Chaboillez might extend. On December 16 Heney brought Chaboillez' cordial reply assuring his cooperation.