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Historical Background

Pushing northward toward the Lolo Trail

By this time, autumn in the Rocky Mountains was well advanced. The sun was sinking on the horizon, and some nights were frosty. This added to the worries of the two leaders. The Columbia had not yet been reached. Food supplies were low. Game had been scarce ever since meeting the Shoshonis, and would likely be even more so in the rugged and unknown mountains ahead.

On August 30 the expedition moved northward, while the Shoshonis headed eastward over the Beaverhead Mountains to the Missouri River area. At the fishing camp, the two men and the baggage Clark had left were picked up. Four of Old Toby's sons accompanied him at first, but on September 1 three of them turned back.

As the explorers moved down the Lemhi River and the Salmon and up its north fork along the eastern slopes of the Bitterroot Mountains, the hilly, broken country became progressively more rugged and mountainous. In many places the timber was so heavy that thickets had to be axed through. On the rocky slopes, often coated with sleet or wet from rain, several horses fell or slipped and were crippled. Others gave out from fatigue. A 2-inch snowfall on September 3 turned into rain and then sleet. The last of the salt pork brought from St. Louis was consumed.

The next day, the group climbed a high spur of the Bitterroot Range, moved through a pass, probably Lost Trail Pass, and reentered present Montana. After the descent, Camp Creek was followed to its junction with the present Bitterroot River, which Lewis named the Clark River.

View to the south into Idaho from the Montana side of Lost Trail Pass, likely crossed by the explorers on their westward journey. Guided by Old Toby, they passed through this morass of mountains and forest during a sleet and snowstorm while en route from the Lemhi to the Bitterroot Valley. (National Park Service (Mattison, 1958).)

Visit with the Flatheads

That same day, Flatheads, whom the Minitaris and Shoshonis had spoken of, were encountered. They had never seen white men before. Their village, numbering 33 lodges and populated by about 400 people, was situated at the base of the Bitterroot Mountains in a beautiful cove that later became known as Ross's Hole. The pipe was smoked and medals and gifts were presented to the chiefs. A Shoshoni boy living among the Flatheads who understood their language translated to Sacagawea. She rendered the words into Minitari for Charbonneau. He in turn translated them into French for Labiche, who passed them on in English to Lewis and Clark. They noted that the tribe spoke in a throaty, gurgling manner.

The Flatheads were not only friendly. Equally as important, they possessed a lot of horses, at least 500, which Clark said were "ellegant." Many of them they had undoubtedly stolen or obtained from their Nez Perce neighbors across the mountains to the west. Thus the herd possibly included some of the spotted breed known today as the Appaloosa, which the Nez Perces may have developed from the Spanish-Arabian strain that had come into their possession and been selectively bred to become recognized far and wide as the finest owned by any North American Indians. Lewis and Clark bartered with the Flatheads for about 13 horses, including at least three colts, and exchanged seven that were worn out. This increased the horseherd to approximately 39 horses, three colts, and one mule—for riding, packing, or food. [116]

On September 6, goodbyes were said to the Flatheads, who set out for the Three Forks of the Missouri to meet their Shoshoni allies. Early in the afternoon, the expedition moved northward down along the Bitterroot River, viewing the spectacular scenery of the Bitterroot Valley, dominated on the west by the saw-toothed Bitterroot Range. This area is one of the most beautiful intermountain areas in the entire Rocky Mountain region.

This painting by Charles M. Russell renders the meeting with the Flathead Indians in Ross's Hole on September 4, 1805. A gigantic canvas 12 by 26 feet in extent, his largest, it was commissioned by the State of Montana and now hangs back of the House Speaker's desk in the capitol at Helena. (Oil by Russell. Montana Historical Society.)

Sojourn at Travelers Rest

Three days later, about 10 miles south of present Missoula, the party reached a large creek flowing into the Bitterroot River from the west. Old Toby said it would be followed, along the Lolo Trail over the Bitterroots. Desiring to take advantage of the fine weather conditions to make celestial observations and anticipating an ordeal ahead, Lewis and Clark decided to stop and rest the men and horses for a day or two, put packs in order, and make final preparations for crossing the Bitterroots. The hunters were able to do little to augment the critically low food supply. Moving up the creek about 2 miles, the weary men camped along its south bank. The two captains called it Travelers Rest Creek (today's Lolo Creek), and so the campsite has come to be known as Travelers Rest.

As had the Minitaris and Shoshonis, Old Toby described an excellent shortcut overland from the Travelers Rest area to the Missouri that the Indians commonly used. He explained that not far to the north the Bitterroot joined a stream nearly as large as itself that rose in the mountains near the Missouri and passed over a broad prairie to the latter stream at a point about 30 miles downstream, or north, of the Gates of the Rocky Mountains. [117] By using the shortcut, Old Toby said the journey from the Missouri to Travelers Rest could be made by land in only 4 days—instead of the 53 days consumed between the same points by Lewis and Clark over land and water along the route they had followed. They had not recognized the Sun and Dearborn Rivers as access routes to the shortcut that they had first heard of from the Minitaris.

Present Lolo Creek, known to Lewis and Clark as Travelers Rest Creek, about 10 miles west of its mouth. The stream, along which the route of part of the Lolo Trail generally passes, drains the eastern side of the Bitterroot Mountains from the vicinity of Lolo Pass. (National Park Service (Mattison, 1958).)

From Travelers Rest, the expedition reconnoitered a short way up Lolo Creek and about 10 miles down the Bitterroot River. While out hunting, Colter met three Flathead Indians, who explained they were pursuing some Shoshonis who had stolen 23 of their horses, and brought them back to camp. Two left to carry on the chase. One remained and joined the party as a guide. Old Toby could not understand him but communicated with sign language. The Flathead said that a related tribe lived 5 days distant over the mountains on a plain on the Columbia River, which he said was navigable to the sea. This was good news to Lewis and Clark and confirmed what the Shoshonis had told them. But 5 days to cross the mountains was not to prove to be accurate, at least for the expedition. Eleven days were to be consumed. For some reason, the journey was made without the newly recruited guide.

Crossing the Bitterroot Mountains. (click on image for an enlargement in a new window)