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Historical Background

Searching for a winter camp

As soon as Lewis and Clark arrived at the mouth of the Columbia, they began to consider a location for a winter camp, for they knew they could not return over the mountains until the next spring. All their reconnaissance revealed that the area north of the Columbia was unsatisfactory. Game was scarce, and living on dried fish and roots was not only an unpalatable thought but also costly, for the Indians demanded high prices. Also, the pervasive dampness rotted clothing and bedding, and hides were needed to replace them.

The Indians reported that game, particularly elk, and edible roots were in good supply on the south shore of the Columbia. Lewis and Clark decided to investigate that area and, if their informants were correct, establish winter quarters there close to the coast. The only other alternative was returning upstream some distance on the Columbia. Game was available there, but salt could not be obtained and chances of meeting any northwest traders would be practically non-existent. And the climate was colder, undesirable because of the poor condition of the clothing. Practically all the wool garments had been used up, and everyone was dressed in animal skins, especially those of deer.

Exploring the Mouth of the Columbia and the Pacific Coast. (click on image for an enlargement in a new window)

Wanting their command to be satisfied with the decision during the long winter ahead, on November 24 Lewis and Clark put the matter to a vote. The men favored examination of the south side of the Columbia, and location there if hunting was good; otherwise, they chose to move upstream to a likely place. The next day, thwarted in a direct crossing of the broad mouth of the river by the high waves, the expedition worked its way upstream along the north bank and camped near where it had on November 7, in the vicinity of Pillar Rock.

Proceeding onward the following day, the 26th, about 17 miles above Tongue Point the boats crossed to the south side of the river and moved downstream. That night, camp was made some 5 miles southeast of Tongue Point. Heavy swells forced a stop on its west side on November 27, and bad weather forced the expedition to stay there until the 29th.

On that date, while the rest of the party remained behind, Lewis took five of his best men—Drouillard, Colter, Reuben Field, Shannon, and Labiche—and set out in the small canoe searching for a winter campsite. One day, Clark, awaiting Lewis' return, in shades of Mackenzie, inscribed the following on a large spruce tree: "Capt William Clark December 3rd 1805. By land. U. States in 1804-1805."

By this time, everyone had begun to worry that some misadventure had befallen the Lewis party, which had not been heard from. But, 2 days later, Lewis returned with three men, having left two others behind to hunt. He reported that a suitable spot for a winter headquarters had been found on a high point of land about 10 miles distant where elk and timber were plentiful. The surrounding area consisted mainly of salt marshes and swampy lowland. It was brush-covered, dotted with hummocks, and laced with tidal creeks. The higher places were covered with a dense growth of gigantic spruce and fir.

Reconstructed Fort Clatsop, Oreg., commemorated as a national memorial. The fort was the expedition's 1805-6 winter quarters. (National Park Service (1964).)

Construction of Fort Clatsop (1805-6)

Bad weather held the expedition to its camp the next day, the 6th. The following morning, guided by Lewis, the men headed the canoes toward the winter campsite. They proceeded past the site of present Astoria, Oreg., and around the eastern end of Young's Bay until they came to the mouth of a river they called by its Indian name, the Netul (today's Lewis and Clark River). They ascended it about 3 miles to the first point of high land on its west side. In a thick growth of spruce about 200 yards back from the river, winter camp was established—home for the next 3-1/2 months.

The next morning (December 8), Clark and five men set out directly westward to reconnoiter the shore of the ocean, whose roaring could be heard at the camp, as well as search for game and seek a site for a saltmaking camp. Clark found the going rough, though he calculated the distance at only 7 miles. Although much of it consisted of an undulating, grass-covered, prairie-like area, it was crisscrossed by several streams, lagoons, and marshy areas. Friendly Clatsop Indians helped Clark and his party across the streams in canoes. They visited a Clatsop coastal village on the 9th, and returned the next day.

By this time, the main body was busy felling trees for a fortification, completed on December 30 and named Fort Clatsop after the local tribe. About 50 feet square, it consisted of two long, facing structures that were joined on the sides by palisaded walls. One of the latter apparently accommodated the main gate; the other, a "water gate," provided access to a fresh water spring about 30 yards distant. Between the two buildings was a "parade ground" about 48 feet long by 20 feet wide.

One of the structures was divided into three rooms, or "huts," occupied by the enlisted men. The other contained four rooms: one for the two captains, one for the Charbonneau family, an orderly room, and a meathouse. All these rooms were used before the fort was fully completed. Most of the men moved into them during a heavy rain on Christmas Eve, following a frantic effort that day to finish the roof.

Thus a touch of hominess was added to the celebration the next day. Merrymakers parading, singing, and firing a round of small arms awakened Lewis and Clark at daybreak to wish them a Merry Christmas. The commanders distributed half of the remaining tobacco to those who used it; to the seven who did not, handkerchiefs. Other gifts were exchanged among members of the party; Sacagawea gave Clark two dozen white weasel tails. Dampening the celebration was the lack of liquor and the miserable dinner fare of spoiled elk, rotting fish, and a few roots.

For 5 days following Christmas, the finishing touches were applied to the fort: completing the palisaded walls and gates, erection of chimneys in most of the rooms, and fabrication of crude furniture and bunks.