Chapter 6:
Complete Conservation
Our national parks system is a national museum. Its
purpose is to preserve forever . . . certain areas of extraordinary
scenic magnificence in a condition of primitive nature. Its recreational
value is also very great, but recreation is not distinctive of the
system. The function which alone distinguishes the national parks . . .
is the museum function made possible only by the parks' complete
conservation.
Robert Sterling Yard, 1923
It is now recognized that [national] Parks contain
more than scenery.
Harold C. Bryant, co-founder,
Yosemite Free Nature Guide Service, 1929
The success of the "See America First" campaign
reassured preservationists that the national parks would survive in some
form. Still open to question was whether they would survive as
originally established. Hetch Hetchy was only the most recent
example of the resistance of Congress to larger parks on the order of
Yellowstone, whose expanse protected (if unintentionally) other natural
values besides scenic wonders. The growing belief that total
preservation should in fact be the role of national parks in the
twentieth century only heightened the tension regarding their integrity.
Increasingly Americans recalled the pronouncement of the Census Bureau
in 1890 that the frontier was no more. Indeed "it has girdled the
globe," Mary Roberts Rinehart confirmed in May 1921 for readers of the
Ladies' Home Journal. "And, unless we are very careful," she
cautioned, "soon there will be no reminders of the old West," including
"the last national resource the American people have withheld from
commercial exploitation, their parks." That others had said as much did
nothing to lessen the urgency of her own statement. Outside the parks it
seemed the transformation of the West would be total. Plans to dam the
Columbia River, for example, already threatened the perspective of those
who would imagine Lewis and Clark reaching out "on their adventurous
journey into the unknown." Soon the river would "be harnessed, like
Niagara, and turning a million wheels. Our wild life gone with our
Indians, our waterfalls harnessed and our rivers laboring, our mountains
groaning that they might bring forth power, soon all that will be left
of our great past," she restated emphatically, "will be our national
parks." [1]
As a catalyst of the national park idea, the search
for an American past through landscape was nothing new. The difference
in articles such as Mrs. Rinehart's lay in their insistence that the
national park idea would not be fully realized until all components of
the American scene were represented. The preservation of a sense of
history itself, for example, as recalled through broad expanses of
native, living landscapes, was coming to be considered as crucial to
establishing the identity of the United States as the protection of
specific natural wonders. It followed that preservationists might, for
the first time, draw a clear distinction between all parks and
national parks. Formality of any kind, Mrs. Rinehart herself
believed, smacked too much of the city park experience. In the West one
came to appreciate "that a park could be more than a neat and civilized
place, with green benches and public tennis courts." The word "park"
itself was "misleading." "It is too small a name," she maintained, "too
definitely associated with signs and asphalt and tameness." [2] Indeed, one of the more noticeable outcomes
of the Hetch Hetchy controversy was preservationists' determination to
defend the parks as a vestige of primitive America. "In this respect a
national and a city park are wholly different," two vertebrate
zoologists, Joseph Grinnell and Tracy Storer, agreed in 1916. "A city
park is of necessity artificial...; but a national park is at its
inception entirely natural and is generally thereafter kept fairly
immune from human interference." [3]
Notable exceptions in the parks included the lodges
and grand hotels, which, however rustic, still could not seriously be
considered "entirely natural." If most preservationists did not insist
that the parks be kept absolutely free of development, it was in
appreciation of the need to attract more visitors, or—as in the
case of Hetch Hetchy—risk far more damaging forms of commercial
enterprise. Yet "the great hotels are dwarfed by the mountains around
them, lost in the trees," Mrs. Rinehart assured her readers. "The
wilderness is there, all around them, so close that the timid wild life
creeps to their very doors." [4]
Such concessions were necessary until patronage in
the parks reached a level sufficient to justify the protection of both
animate and inanimate scenery. To be sure, hardly had Stephen T. Mather
taken office as director of the National Park Service than ranchers and
farmers in the state of Idaho launched a concerted effort to tap
Yellowstone Lake and the falls of the Bechler River—in the
southwestern corner of Yellowstone Park—for irrigation. [5] Preservationists quickly perceived the scheme
as a threat to their own proposal to extend the boundaries of the park
southward to include portions of the Thorofare Basin, Jackson Hole, and
the Teton Mountains. The addition, they maintained, was necessary if
Yellowstone were now to be managed along natural rather than political
boundaries. Out of the plan emerged Grand Teton National Park,
established in 1929 as a "roadless" preserve. Any pretext that the park
was a serious break with tradition, however, was dispelled by failure to
include the lowlands and wildlife habitat of Jackson Hole.
It remained instead for Everglades National Park,
Florida, authorized in 1934, to mark the first unmistakable pledge to
total preservation. The commitment seemed all the more convincing in
light of the kind of topography represented in the Everglades. For the
first time a major national park would lack great mountains, deep
canyons, and tumbling waterfalls; preservationists accepted the
protection of its native plants and animals alone as justification for
Everglades National Park. Later fears that its pristine character might
also be sacrificed to development stemmed from mounting pressure to
restrict the park to an area considerably under the ceiling approved by
Congress. In the quest for total preservation, no less than the
retention of significant natural wonders, the worthlessness of the area
in question was still the only guarantee of effecting a successful
outcome.
A California camper, facing the perils of the roadside to shoot a bison
in Wind Cave National Park, illustrates the impact of the automobile
upon the way modern American tourists see the national parks.
Hileman photograph, courtesy of the National Archives
These touring cars of the 1920s, east of St. Mary Lake in Glacier
National Park, were the precursors of the modern air-conditioned tour
buses operated by park concessionaires.
Courtesy of the National Archives
Before being toppled by heavy snowfall in the winter of 1969, the Wawona
Tunnel Tree, in the Mariposa Redwood Grove of Yosemite National Park,
was the scene of countless snapshots, publicity stunts, and gags,
usually involving cars. Above, a carriage carrying President Theodore
Roosevelt (standing tallest in the carriage) and John Muir (partly
hidden, second from left) visits the landmark in May 1903.
Courtesy of the National Park Service
The elaborate masonry, turnouts, and tunnels of National Park Service
roads helped to make the parks a unique visual experience for motorists.
Above, an automobile negotiates the east slope of the Logan Pass
(Going-to-the-Sun) Highway in Glacier National Park. Below, the
dedication of the Going-to-the-Sun Highway, July 15, 1933. brought
dignitaries, Indians, and a brass band to their feet for the singing of
"America."
George A. Grant Collection, courtesy of the National Pack Service
The rapid growth of automobile traffic encouraged the development of
areas on the fringes of the national parks like West Yellowstone,
Montana, shown here in August 1939.
George A. Grant Collection, Courtesy of the National Park Service
The automobile has been accused of contributing to the degradation of
wildlife in the national parks, particularly by causing changes in
habits and feeding patterns; here, a buck deer begs at a car in
Yellowstone, 1926.
Tourists pose on the Auto Log in Sequoia National Park during the summer
of 1929.
Visitors regularly speak of the national parks as Nature's cathedrals;
Easter sunrise services were first offered at Mirror Lake in Yosemite
Valley in 1932.
Cecil W. Stoughton photograph, courtesy of the National Park Service
Modern snowmobilists watch an eruption of Old Faithful. By opening the
parks to new recreational machines, critics say, the National Park
Service is paying more heed to the whims of visitors than to the complex
needs of park environments.
Courtesy of the National Park Service
Bert Taylor, United States skating champion, performs at the Yosemite
Winterclub in February 1937. Preservationists protest that an ice rink,
let alone such theatrics, is an amusement more appropriate to big cities
and resorts than to a park set aside to preserve a natural environment.
A workman removes debris from Blue Star Spring while Old Faithful erupts
in the background, March 1968. Too many callous visitors bring too many
pop bottles.
Grizzlies and gulls hold visitors' fascination at the bear feeding
grounds near the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone sometime during the
1930s. The twilight "shows" were last held in the fall of 1945, but the
question of bears and garbage in Yellowstone is still controversial.
The conviction that national parks were fast becoming
the last vestiges of primitive America was an important catalyst for
management of their resources as a whole. Since the creation of Yosemite
and Yellowstone, in 1864 and 1872 respectively, the overriding criterion
for the selection of national parks was the presence of natural wonders.
Occasionally Congress seemed aware that the parks might fill other
roles; the Yellowstone Act, for example, provided against "the wanton
destruction of the fish and game found within said park, and against
their capture or destruction for the purposes of merchandise or profit."
[6] But precisely what was meant by "wanton
destruction" was open to broad interpretation. Nor can it be argued
seriously that game conservation inspired Yellowstone National Park. It
remained for sportsmen and explorers such as George Bird Grinnell,
co-founder of the Boone and Crockett Club, to impress upon the secretary
of the interior and the Congress the need for better wildlife protection
in Yellowstone. [7] Of course, simply to
provide shelter for the animals could hardly be called game management;
both the science and public appreciation of its importance did not
mature until the twentieth century. [8]
The federal government still weighed new parks
primarily on the basis of their physical endowments; only then might
other factors bearing on the decision to establish a reserve be openly
advanced. "So with the Yellowstone," Stephen T. Mather asserted in the
National Parks Portfolio, in 1916; "all have heard of its
geysers, but few indeed of its thirty-three-hundred square miles of
wilderness beauty." The inclusion of wilderness in the park in 1872 had
been purely unintentional. The park "is associated in the public mind
with geysers only," Robert Sterling Yard, author of the
Portfolio, agreed. "There never was a greater mistake. Were there
no geysers, the Yellowstone watershed alone, with its glowing canyon,
would be worth the national park." Of course the chasm was a scenic
wonder in its own right. But "were there also no canyon," Yard
continued, "the scenic wilderness and its incomparable wealth of
wild-animal life would be worth the national park." [9]
Seen in light of his capacity as Mather's director of
public relations, Yard's assessment could be interpreted as a sign of
new directions in park management. Free distribution of the National
Parks Portfolio to 275,000 leading Americans underscored the
significance of his and Mather's reappraisal of the role of national
parks. What they initially envisioned as a publicity volume was in fact
an invitation to join in rethinking the national park idea. "That these
parks excelled in grandeur and variety the combined scenic exhibits of
other principal nations moved the national pride," Yard recalled. Now
Americans were awakening to the realization that the national parks
"embodied in actual reality . . . a mighty system of national museums of
the primitive American wilderness." Indeed "the national parks are much
more than a playground," Mary Roberts Rinehart agreed. "They are a
refuge. They bring rest to their human visitors, but they give life to
uncounted numbers of wild creatures." Certainly the animals "are of no
less consequence than the scenery," Joseph Grinnell and Tracy Storer
concurred. "To the natural charm of the landscape they add the witchery
of movement." Management of the national parks ultimately must consider
the sum total of these phenomena. "Herein lies the feature of supreme
value in national parks," the naturalists concluded in defending their
assessment; "they furnish examples of the earth as it was before the
advent of the white man." [10]
Like the analogy that natural wonders served as
cultural mileposts, the claim that primitive America might be suspended
in the national parks promised to secure the national park idea for the
future. Destruction of the reserves, for example, might be decried as
dismembering the bond between history and prehistory. In this vein
public education stood to become a beneficiary of complete conservation;
indeed the national park system, Robert Sterling Yard lamented, "may be
compared to a school equipped with every educational device, filled with
eager pupils [but] with no teachers." Both individually and
collectively, the reserves provided a superb illustration of "the
geological sequence of America's making," of "the tremendous processes
of the upbuilding of gigantic mountain systems, their destruction by
erosion, and their rebuilding." Similarly, Yard added: "In all of them
wild life conditions remain untouched." [11]
The latter, unfortunately, was not yet the case.
Actually the National Park Service pursued a vigorous program against
predators well into the 1930s. As early as October 1920, for example,
Stephen T. Mather reported a "very gratifying increase in deer and other
species that always suffer through the depredations of mountain lion,
wolves, and other 'killers.'" In truth the application of "complete
conservation" to both wildlife and landscapes was still largely
compromised by human values and emotions. Until the evolution of that
degree of detachment based on ecological understanding, allowances would
continue to be made for "desirable" as opposed to "undesirable" features
of the natural world. This major lapse in objectivity aside, however,
the defense of total preservation as a vehicle for education still had
considerable appeal. After all, the promotion of national parks as
America's "outdoor classrooms" was a practical rationale for preserving
"living" landscapes as well as natural wonders. "It seems to have been
demonstrated that Uncle Sam's famous playgrounds have a much greater
value than merely that of attracting tourists to see geysers and
glaciers and waterfalls," summed up one supporter. The reserves, agreed
Stephen Mather, "in addition to being ideal recreation areas, serve also
as field laboratories for the study of nature." [12]
The first park museums and interpretive programs,
which appeared in the 1920s, formally recognized the educational role of
scenic preservation. Instructing visitors in complete conservation,
however, was to prove far easier than actually applying the theory.
Congress still resisted additions to the parks which would compensate
for their existing limitations. Moreover, in the face of opposition from
vested economic interests, efforts to expand the park system had little
chance of success unless the new areas themselves were restricted in
size. Invariably they, too, stressed physical phenomena. Because the
parks were meant to take in only scenic wonders, such as a mountain or
canyon, they failed to include enough habitat to give sanctuary to all
resident species of plants and animals.
No one, of course, opposed additions to the park
system of a traditional nature; by no means had the United States
protected representative examples of every major kind of landscape.
Those close to the issue of total conservation might also overlook their
setbacks amid the excitement of rediscovering the wonders of the
continent. John Burroughs, for example, was one of several contemporary
naturalists who still reached the height of popularity with a style of
description more suggestive of nineteenth-century explorers. "In the
East, the earth's wounds are virtually all healed," he noted in 1911,
"but in the West they are yet raw and gaping, if not bleeding." The
Grand Canyon in particular did "indeed suggest a far-off, half-sacred
antiquity, some greater Jerusalem, Egypt, Babylon, or India," he wrote.
"We speak of it as a scene; it is more like a vision, so foreign is it
to all other terrestrial spectacles, and so surpassingly beautiful." [13]
As Burroughs reminded his readers, the stark
landforms of the Southwest provided Americans yet another opportunity to
achieve a semblance of historical continuity through landscape. The
protection of the region's outstanding natural wonders was therefore a
strong possibility. Grand Canyon National Monument, set aside by
President Theodore Roosevelt in January 1908, was preceded only by
Petrified Forest National Monument, proclaimed two years earlier to
protect the remnants of an ancient woodland in eastern Arizona. Later,
in 1919, Congress elevated the Grand Canyon to full national park
status. The same year marked the creation of Zion National Park, Utah,
located approximately 100 air miles to the north. Justly renowned as
"the Yosemite of the Desert" by virtue of its steep, brilliantly colored
sandstone cliffs, Zion itself had nearby rivals, most notably Bryce
Canyon, dedicated as a national park in 1928, and Cedar Breaks National
Monument, established five years later. [14]
The inclusion of these unique areas in the park
system rounded out what another popular writer, Rufus Steele, dubbed
"the Celestial Circuit." (The route has since been broadened with the
creation of several parklands of the same genre, including Canyonlands
[1964], Arches [1971], and Capitol Reef [1971].) "It leads to canyons
set about with majestic peaks," he depicted, "and to other canyons that
are filled with cathedrals and colonnades, ramparts and rooms, terraces
and temples, turrets and towers, obelisks and organs," and similar
"incredible products of erosion." In testimony to the excitement aroused
by his descriptions, during the late 1920s the Union Pacific Railroad
resurrected the "See America First" campaign as part of a massive
publicity effort to attract rail travelers to the region. "The Grand
Canyon?" one of the railroad's posters asked. "Nowhere on the face of
the globe is there anything like it." But even Bryce Canyon, although
far smaller, was no less worthy of a rail pilgrimage west. Its "great
side walls are fluted like giant cathedral organs," the Union Pacific
insisted. "Other architectural rockforms tower upward in vast spires and
minarets—marbly white and flaming pink." Royalty itself seemed
present, "high on painted pedestals" and "startlingly real. Figures of
Titans, of kings and queens!" Finally came Zion, with "tremendous
temples and towers" rising "sheer four-fifths of a mile into the blue
Utah sky." Surely, therefore, "every true American" would want to see
the wonders of his own country first, especially those covered through
out the Southwest "on an exclusive Union Pacific tour." [15]
New mountain-based national parks likewise affirmed
that monumentalism was still a preeminent force behind the advancement
of scenic preservation. Included among the reserves established in 1916
were Mount Lassen Volcanic National Park, California, and Hawaii
Volcanoes National Park, on the islands of Hawaii and Maui. The
following year Congress added Mount McKinley in Alaska to the park
system, ostensibly as a game preserve. Yet, ecologically speaking, all
of the new parks were disappointments. Much like their predecessors,
they, too, were rugged, restricted in size, or, regardless of their
area, compromised to accommodate economic claims to the detriment of
preservation objectives. Congress still allowed mining in Mount McKinley
National Park, for instance; moreover, the prospectors might kill "game
or birds as they may be needed for their actual necessities when short
of food." To say nothing of the mining, the discretion accorded the
hunters seriously undercut any pretensions of wildlife conservation in
the reserve. [16] In either case,
preservation had not been achieved without rugged scenery as its focus,
in this instance Mount McKinley.
Proof that the United States was indeed committed to
wildlife protection in the national parks could not seriously be
demonstrated until Congress recognized the parks because of their
wildlife instead of their imposing topography. For example, the
establishment of reserves in the East, whose landforms were relatively
modest, would confirm the nation's sincerity to protect other natural
values besides scenery. As early as 1894 the North Carolina Press
Association petitioned Congress for a national park in the state; five
years later the Appalachian National Park Association, organized at
Asheville, seconded the proposal. Other preservation groups rapidly
followed suit, including the Appalachian Mountain Club, the American
Civic Association, and the American Association for the Advancement of
Science. It still remained for Mount Desert Island, a rugged fragment of
Maine seacoast, to form the nucleus of the first eastern park. This was
Acadia, established in 1919. Several New England gentlemen of means
inspired the project, including Charles W. Eliot, president of Harvard
University, and George B. Dorr, a wealthy Bostonian. As early as 1901
they financed a program to secure portions of the island threatened by
development; large contributions from other philanthropists, most
notably John D. Rockefeller, Jr., furthered the cause. In 1916 the group
persuaded President Woodrow Wilson to proclaim the 6,000 acres acquired
to date a national monument. In 1918 Congress provided $10,000 for its
management; then the following year—largely at the insistence of
Mr. Dorr and Park Service director Stephen T. Mather—authorized
that the reserve be made into a national park. [17]
Meanwhile the drive for reserves in the highlands of
Virginia, Tennessee, or North Carolina also continued. Out of these
efforts came the Southern Appalachian National Park Committee. In 1924
Secretary of the Interior Hubert Work asked the five-man commission to
assess the region's suitability for representation in the national park
system. "It has not been generally known that eastern parks of
National size might still be acquired by our Government," the
delegation advised in its report. But surprisingly, not one but "several
areas were found that contained topographic features of great scenic
value" which compared "favorably with any of the existing parks of the
West." In order of ruggedness two were preeminent—the Great Smoky
Mountains, forming the border between North Carolina and Tennessee, and
the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. Yet the need to guard against
overconfidence about the chances of actually preserving each highland
remained. "All that has saved these nearby regions from spoliation for
so long a time," the commissioners warned, "has been their
inaccessibility and the difficulty of profitably exploiting the timber
wealth that mantles the steep mountain slopes." Now these woodlands,
too, were jeopardized by the "rapidly increasing shortages and mounting
values of forest products." Thus it seemed probable "that the last
remnants of [the] primeval forests will be destroyed," the men
concluded, "however remote on steep mountain side or hidden away in deep
lonely cove they may be." [18]
Predictably, the commissioners stressed ruggedness as
the primary criterion for awarding the Appalachians one or more national
parks. Still, their reference to the "primeval" character of the
highlands was evidence they had considered broader roles for the
reserves. The emerging importance of total preservation was further
reflected in the appearance of articles calling attention to the value
of the Great Smoky Mountains as a botanical refuge. "There are 152
varieties of trees alone," observed Isabelle F. Story, editor-in-chief
of the National Park Service. Indeed "it is impossible to describe the
Great Smoky forest," agreed Robert Sterling Yard, "so rich is it in
variety and beauty." [19] Yet no one denied
that spectacular topography was still the major criterion for selecting
a national park. Ruggedness first attracted the Appalachian National
Park Committee to the Blue Ridge and Great Smokies. Other features
unique to the Appalachians, especially their forests, initially were
singled out largely to overcome doubts that neither region had enough
topographical distinction to warrant park status. "It may be admitted
that they are second to the West in rugged grandeur," Commissioner
William C. Gregg conceded, "but they are first in beauty of woods, in
thrilling fairyland glens, and in the warmth of Mother Nature's
welcome." Stephen T. Mather added to Gregg's assessment: "The greater
portion of the lands involved in these two park projects are wilderness
areas." Still, even he felt compelled to add immediately, "and in the
Smoky Mountains are found the greatest outstanding peaks east of the
Rocky Mountains." [20]
In the East, of course, the public domain had long
since passed into private control. The establishment of a national park
here was not simply a matter of transferring land from one federal
bureaucracy to another. As with Acadia, the land must be repurchased.
From the outset Congress made it clear that either the states or private
donors would have to assume the financial and legal costs of acquiring
any reserves east of the Rockies. To coordinate such efforts,
preservationists organized the Shenandoah National Park Association of
Virginia, the Great Smoky Mountain Conservation Commission, and Great
Smoky Mountains, Inc. Swayed by this outburst of citizen support, in May
1926 Congress authorized the secretary of the interior to accept, on
behalf of the federal government, a maximum of 521,000 acres and 704,000
acres for Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains national parks
respectively. [21] Still, in the absence of
any immediate assistance from Washington, both projects were sorely
compromised from the start. Estimates for acquiring sufficient property
in the Smokies alone approached $10 million. Residents of North
Carolina, Tennessee, and other private citizens raised half the amount;
long plagued by substandard economies, however, neither state seemed
capable of attaining its goal. Again the cause of preservation had a
rescuer in John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who made up the difference between
the $5 million subscribed to date and the amount needed for a national
park worthy of the name. A substantially smaller, but no less welcome
Rockefeller contribution aided the Shenandoah project in Virginia as
well. Thereby spared the certainty of truly crippling delays, in 1934
and 1935 respectively Great Smoky Mountain and Shenandoah national parks
joined the system as full-fledged members [22]
Shenandoah and the Great Smokies are best seen as
transition parks. While both anticipated the ecological standards of the
later twentieth century, Congress first required each region to
approximate the visual standards of the national park idea as originally
conceived. The persistence of monumentalism dictated that landscapes
represented in the East also be of some topographic significance.
Whatever the merits of the Great Smokies and the Blue Ridge Mountains as
wilderness, wildlife, and botanical preserves, none of these features
had as yet been recognized apart from its scenic base. Mountains were
the framework of protection; what lived or moved on their surfaces might
buttress preservationists' arguments for the parks, yet not guarantee
them a full and complete victory. Still unresolved was whether or not
large areas devoid of geological wonders might win permanent admittance
to the national park system. Confidence that the United States was
moving closer to concern for the environment for its own sake awaited
the outcome of more heated controversies. With the addition,
specifically, of the Florida Everglades to the national park family,
preservationists could point with greater assurance to evidence of a
more enlightened environmental perspective.
The cornerstone of that perspective was total
preservation. Its meaning was not yet fully defined; still, gradually
more Americans were coming to realize that, essentially, the difference
between all parks and national parks lay in the one feature that
the latter had had from the beginning—primitive conditions. State
and city parks could be said to be scenic; few but the national parks
offered scenery unmodified. "Except to make way for roads, trails,
hotels and camps sufficient to permit the people to live there awhile
and contemplate the unaltered works of nature," Robert Sterling Yard
described the distinction, "no tree, shrub or wild flower is cut, no
stream or lake shore is disturbed, no bird or animal is destroyed." The
national parks, in short, were unique by virtue of "complete
conservation." [23] It followed that they
were best where modified the least.
It was symbolic that Yellowstone National Park would
be central to the first major test of that new resolve. Approval of the
park in 1872 realized the campaign to protect the region's unique
"freaks" and "curiosities" of nature. Yet its boundaries had been drawn
in some haste and in the absence of complete knowledge about the
territory. Only gradually did a later generation of preservationists
fully appreciate that many features worthy of protection had been left
outside the park. Of these none were considered more inspiring than the
mountains of the Teton Range. Sheer and glacier-carved, the summits
guard the southern approach to Yellowstone on a north-south axis
approximately forty miles in length. The highest peak, Grand Teton,
rises well above 13,700 feet. To the east the mountains fall off
abruptly into Jackson Hole, which, at roughly 6,000 feet in elevation,
often is referred to as the Tetons' "frame." The valley supports a
variety of native vegetation as a foreground, including woodlands,
grasslands, and sagebrush flats. Several lakes and streams also mirror
the peaks, among them Jackson Lake, lying astride the northern flank of
the range, and the Snake River, which roughly divides the remainder of
Jackson Hole into an eastern and a western half. [24]
Like its neighbor to the north, Yellowstone National
Park, prior to 1880 Jackson Hole was wild and relatively unnoticed. [25] This was the ideal time to protect the
region as a whole, before anyone seriously claimed it. Yet with the
nation's attention fixed on the wonders of Yellowstone, the opportunity
vanished before it was realized. By the late 1880s ranchers and settlers
began filtering into Jackson Hole from the south and east; hard evidence
of civilization inevitably followed, including roads, cabins, barns, and
fences. [26]
With settlement came permanent disruptions to the
wildlife as well as the natural vegetation. For centuries Yellowstone's
southern elk herd had migrated through Jackson Hole to winter in the
Green River basin, west of the Wind River Mountains. Other large
mammals, including moose and antelope, were also dependent on a far
larger range than the national park originally included. With settlement
of the Green River basin, then Jackson Hole, the elk found themselves
squeezed off their wintering grounds by barbed-wire fencing and roads.
In addition, domestic livestock consumed much of the forage previously
reserved for the elk. They could not stay in Yellowstone; the snow was
too deep and the cold too bitter. As a result, thousands of the animals
starved, weakened, and died. To worsen matters, each fall the herd also
fell victim to poaching. The professional hunters simply lined up just
outside Yellowstone Park to await the animals' forced exit. Sport
hunting, although legal, also took its toll. The sportsmen, after all,
no less than the market hunters, sought out those elk whose strength and
vitality were essential to maintaining the herd's reproductive capacity.
[27]
Because scenic phenomena, not wildlife, inspired
Yellowstone National Park, no one at the time seriously considered
laying out its boundaries to protect both resources. Still, even if the
fate of the elk had been foreseen, it is doubtful Congress would have
added Jackson Hole to the national park in 1872. The valley floor is an
average of 2,000 feet below Yellowstone; at this elevation grazing and
agriculture are still practical, and certainly would have preempted any
claim that a wildlife preserve was Jackson Hole's legitimate role.
Indeed, as late as 1898 Congress shelved a report by Charles D. Walcott,
director of the U.S. Geological Survey, and Dr. T. S. Brandegee, a San
Diego botanist, which called for the extension of Yellowstone Park
southward to include the upper portion of the valley and most of the
neighboring Thorofare Basin. The men noted that by restricting the
addition to the northern segment of Jackson Hole, few vested interests
should feel threatened, inasmuch as most of the settlers and ranchers
had been drawn to the southern end of the valley because of its superior
fertility. Besides, the territory to be included was primarily
government land as part of the Teton Forest Preserve. [28]
It soon became evident, nevertheless, that preserving
access to the forest reserve was reason enough for valley residents to
oppose the plan. As a concession to local needs, settlers and ranchers
were allowed to graze their livestock, hunt, gather fenceposts, and cut
firewood in the forest. For obvious reasons few of the tenants wanted to
forego these privileges for the sake of Yellowstone Park. Accordingly,
in 1902 approximately sixty residents of Jackson Hole petitioned against
the extension as another infringement on their right of entry to the
public domain. It remained for the state of Wyoming, in 1905, to declare
a large portion of the region a game preserve and curtail the poaching
of the elk. [29] However, in the absence of
a comprehensive approach to the issue of development in Jackson Hole
itself, the effectiveness of the measure was compromised from the
start.
The lines were now drawn for one of the longest and
most emotional battles in the history of the national park idea. Over
the next several years the tragedy of the elk occasionally focused
attention on the fate of Jackson Hole. Then, in July 1916, Stephen T.
Mather and Horace Albright briefly visited the valley with a party of
government officials. It was this trip, Albright later recalled, that
convinced him, Mather, and their associates that "this region must
become a park" to protect forever its "beauty and wilderness charm." [30] The following winter he and Mather "looked
up the status of Jackson Hole lands and tried to formulate some feasible
park plans." Predictably, their own proposal strayed little from the
earlier recommendation of Walcott and Brandegee to extend Yellowstone
National Park southward into Jackson Hole. After all, Mather himself
noted, the northern half of the valley "can never be put to any
commercial use," while "every foot naturally belongs to Yellowstone
Park." [31]
Opponents, however, were still not convinced by the
worthless-lands argument. The Park Service agreed to preserve grazing
privileges in the addition, and, true to Mather's word, pursued only the
inclusion of Jackson Hole's least desirable portion. Yet on February 18,
1919, the extension bill died in the Senate under objections raised by
John F. Nugent of Idaho. Speaking on behalf of state sheepmen and
cattlemen, Nugent claimed that certain grasslands to be included in the
park would not, as promised, in fact be open to grazing. [32] Once again the mere possibility that a
national park would jeopardize commercial ventures had been enough to
kill the Yellowstone extension. [33]
The controversy now took a new twist. Although the
skepticism of the ranchers had been foreseen, an unexpected source of
opposition suddenly appeared. Its target—a road-building program
endorsed by the National Park Service—also came as quite a
surprise. In part to counter objections raised against the economic
impact of the Yellowstone extension, the Park Service had gone on record
in support of an enlarged and improved system of roads for Jackson Hole,
including a direct link with the Cody Road (Yellowstone's east entrance)
via Thorofare Basin. "In Washington we were constantly impressed by
visiting callers from the West with the demand for more and better
roads," Horace Albright explained later in justifying the decision. It
followed that the people of Jackson Hole would be thinking along much
the same lines. "We even put this tentative idea on a map, believing
that it was what Wyoming wanted. How many times later," he confessed,
"we wished that map had never seen the light of day." [34]
But although the proposal was tentative, as Albright
noted, publication of the map in the Park Service's Annual Report
strongly implied that the roads would go through. [35] In August 1919, Albright, now
superintendent of Yellowstone, returned to Jackson Hole to attend a
public meeting called to discuss the Yellowstone extension. His hope of
reenlisting support for the project evaporated in a storm of opposition.
Behind the hostility of those present at the gathering, he determined,
were the dude ranchers. As opposed to traditional ranching interests,
who by and large welcomed the opportunities opened by public-works
projects, the dude ranchers favored precisely the opposite flavor of the
West. Like their clients, most were not native Westerners, but
well-to-do Easterners who escaped to Jackson Hole to run their
businesses during the tourist season. It was they, Albright reported,
"who felt that park status meant modern roads, overflowing of the
country with tourists, and other encroachments of civilization that
would rob it of its romance and charm." [36]
They even "refused to abide by the daylight-saving law," he complained
to Director Mather in October. "They do not want automobiles . . . they
will not have a telephone; and they insist that their mail should not be
delivered more than three times a week." His veiled disgust was
understandable; the National Park Service was charged with the task of
making it easier to see the West rather than more difficult. Providing
access to the national parks still had its serious side as well. Without
greater public support for the reserves brought about by increased
visitation, none might continue to exist. "One must, of course, feel a
certain sympathy for these people who are trying to get away from the
noise and worries of city life and go as far into the wilds as
possible," Albright conceded, "but they can not expect to keep such
extraordinary mountain regions as the Tetons and their gem lakes . . .
all for themselves." [37]
In view of the determined opposition of the dude
ranchers to more development in the Jackson Hole country, however, the
Park Service reassessed its priorities. "Should the extension of the
park be approved," Stephen T. Mather stressed hardly a year after
Albright's run-in with valley residents, "it would be the policy of this
service to abstain from the construction or improvement of any more
roads than now exist in the region...." Mather further stated it to be
his "firm conviction that a part of the Yellowstone country" likewise
"should be maintained as a wilderness [italics added] for the
ever-increasing numbers of people who prefer to walk and ride over
trails in a region abounding in wild life." Moreover, as if to deny that
the Park Service had, at the very least, encouraged a false impression
about its commitment to the highway program, he would now go so far as
to claim that any roads around Yellowstone Lake and across the Thorofare
Basin "would mean the extinction of the moose." His overcompensation had
a twofold purpose; first, it was obvious the Park Service had lost the
trust of the dude ranchers in Jackson Hole. In addition to regaining
their confidence, Mather also had to restore the credibility of the
National Park Service as the agency of complete conservation. "I am so
sure that this view is correct," he concluded, "that I would be glad to
see an actual inhibition on new road building placed in the proposed
extension bill, this proviso to declare that without the prior authority
of Congress no new road project in this region should be undertaken."
[38]
As testimony to his sincerity, he immediately
extended the restriction against roads to other large parks,
particularly Yosemite. The ban was not total; rather new roads must not
be considered until old ones proved inadequate. Still, Mather insisted:
"In the Yosemite National Park, as in all of the other parks, the policy
which contemplates leaving large areas of high mountain country wholly
undeveloped should be forever maintained." [39]
In 1926 there appeared another opportunity to follow
through on his promise. After several years of delay and litigation,
Congress was finally prepared to enlarge Sequoia National Park by taking
in a substantial portion of the Sierra Nevada east of the Giant Forest,
including Mount Whitney. Debate in the House of Representatives
inevitably led to the question of developing the new section. The bill's
sponsor, however, Henry E. Barbour of California, would hear none of it.
"It is proposed to make this a trail park and keep it a trail park," he
stressed. "It is now a trail park...; there are no roads contemplated
into this new area at this time." The bill itself underscored the point
by providing "for the preservation of said park in a state of
nature [italics added] so far as is consistent with the purposes of
this Act." [40] Although the clause left
substantial leeway for development, with the enlargement of Sequoia
National Park came proof that complete conservation was winning
converts, especially with regard to the placement of roads.
It was one thing, of course, to prohibit roads in the
rugged back country of the national parks, where their construction was
nearly impossible in the first place, and quite another to discourage
highways where topography posed no obstacles. In this regard Horace
Albright conceded that the Sierra Nevada and Jackson Hole were worlds
apart. "Good roads for the hurrying motorist, on the one hand," he noted
in discussing the complexity of the issue facing the valley, "and
protection of the dude ranchers from invasion by automobiles, on the
other, were foreseen as difficult problems soon to be faced." Valley
residents traced the day of reckoning to 1923. By then "it seemed that
road development might get entirely out of hand," Albright recalled.
Struthers Burt, a partner of the famous Bar BC dude ranch, agreed. Each
year "the increasing hordes of automobile tourists" swept Jackson Hole
"like locusts." Few motorists had "the slightest perception . . . that
there existed other and equally important philosophies and vital,
fundamental human desires." The charge foreshadowed Burt's own change of
heart toward the National Park Service. "In the beginning I was bitterly
opposed to park extension, and remained so for some time," he admitted.
"The advent of the automobile alone would have changed my mind ..." [41]
Finally convinced of at least Horace Albright's
sincerity, in July 1923 the dude ranchers invited him back to Jackson
Hole to discuss the feasibility of protecting it as a living outdoor
museum or recreation area. The threat of public-works projects sponsored
by the U.S. Forest Service and the Bureau of Reclamation added to the
sense of urgency in the valley over auto-related commercialism. By 1916,
for example, the bureau had increased the surface area of Jackson Lake
approximately 50 percent through damming of its outlet. As the water
level rose, piles of dead trees and other debris littered the shoreline
for miles. Despite the destruction, irrigationists backed the bureau's
search for other reservoir sites, including the wilderness lakes
surrounding Jackson Hole. Whether such schemes could be thwarted by an
outdoor museum or its equivalent was highly questionable; who, for
example, would invest in such a proposal? Still, Albright went along
with the dude ranchers with the hope of eventually substituting a
project more likely to succeed. [42]
Three years later, in July 1926, an opportunity
presented itself in the form of Mr. and Mrs. John D. Rockefeller, Jr.
While they and their sons vacationed in Yellowstone, Albright suggested
the family round out its stay with a visit to Jackson Hole. He further
offered to escort them in person. Naturally he anticipated their
reaction to the assortment of gas stations, billboards, dancehalls, and
other tourist traps now dotting that remarkable valley. On the spot
Rockefeller requested that Albright forward him a list of the affected
properties and estimates for the cost of restoring them to their former
condition. Late that fall, however, when Albright hand-delivered the
data requested by the philanthropist to his New York City office,
Rockefeller surprised him by outlining an even more ambitious plan.
While Albright's proposal called for spending approximately $250,000 to
acquire only the land nearest the mountains, Rockefeller wished to
invest four times that amount to purchase and restore private property
on both sides of the Snake River. Understandably jubilant, Albright
quickly compiled the necessary additions. [43]
To expedite the program, in 1927 Rockefeller and his
staff, on advice from Albright, incorporated the Snake River Land
Company out of Salt Lake City, Utah. The objective was to conceal
Rockefeller's identity to ward off speculation in Jackson Hole once the
purchasing began. Although the philanthropist intended to pay a fair
price for the land, he agreed that knowledge of his interest in the
valley would make completion of his program extremely difficult, if not
impossible. Not until 1930, after most of the key real estate had been
acquired, did Rockefeller's sponsorship of the Snake River Land Company,
and his intention to deed its holdings to the National Park Service,
become public information. [44]
All told, Rockefeller purchased approximately 35,000
acres, nearly 22 per cent of that portion of Jackson Hole eventually
accorded park status. By February 1929 his subordinates had also
persuaded President Calvin Coolidge to withdraw most of the adjoining
tracts of public domain from entry. This, too, was a crucial victory,
since, without the withdrawals, nothing legally prevented speculators,
or those farmers and ranchers just bought out, from filing new
homesteads as fast as Rockefeller acquired their existing holdings in
the valley. [45]
But while he intended his gift to be free of cost to
the nation, he could hardly have realized that Congress would not accept
it for another twenty years. Once more the roadblock to preservation was
the issue of "uselessness." Congress chose sides in 1929, when it set
apart only the Teton Mountains as a national park. The protection of
such rugged terrain, of course, could not seriously be considered a
threat to any established economic interest. The park also gave
preservationists the appearance of a victory, when in fact only those
who still looked for monuments were satisfied. Fritiof M. Fryxell, for
example, a geologist, could not have been more pleased with the result.
"The peaks—these are the climax and, after all, the raison
de'etre of this park," he maintained. "For the Grand Teton National
Park is preeminently the national park of mountain peaks—the
Park of Matterhorns." [46] Congress
itself saw no reason to make the reserve contiguous with Yellowstone;
similarly, Jackson Hole was excluded. Indeed, Jenny, Leigh, and String
lakes, which hug the mountains' eastern flank, were just about the only
level land in the entire 150-square-mile preserve. Its western boundary
also excluded major watersheds, forests, and wildlife habitat by
paralleling the tips of the peaks themselves, well above timberline. Yet
even at this altitude Congress felt free to change its mind.
Specifically, when the U.S. Forest Service protested that the northern
third of the range contained asbestos deposits, Congress deleted the
entire area prior to approving the enabling act. [47]
Granted, even without this section, no park was more
magnificent. Yet only if monumentalism had been the overriding concern
of preservationists could all of them have joined Fritiof M. Fryxell in
praising the reserve as established. Since the inception of the movement
to extend Yellowstone southward to include Jackson Hole and its
neighboring environments, protection of the mountains themselves had
been advanced as only one element of the need to preserve the region in
its greater diversity. Without Jackson Hole, the park was simply a
mountain retreat, too high, too cold, and too barren for all but summer
recreation.
The one concession to complete conservation—a
ban against any new roads, permanent camps, or hotels in the
park—had also been challenged and revised accordingly. As initially
worded, the clause opened with a declaration stating it to be the
"intent of Congress to retain said park in its original
wilderness character" [italics added]. The preface was a
concession to the dude ranchers, whose opposition to the Park Service
over the issue of roads had helped kill the Yellowstone extension in its
original form. Yet some in Congress charged that the provision might now
exclude trails from the park. As a result, all reference to "wilderness"
was dropped. Even when an amendment exempted new trails from the ban
against tourist facilities, the word "wilderness" was not reinstated in
the clause. [48] The term, after all, was
coming to stand for the ultimate commitment to total preservation. This
might be going too far, even in the Tetons.
The ruggedness of the mountains was some guarantee
total preservation must be followed, if only by default. Yet without
Jackson Hole the test of the nation's commitment to complete
conservation was meaningless. A park that preserved itself was, by its
very nature, inadequate for protecting all forms of wildlife and plant
life. Imposing landscapes were coming to be seen as but one component of
the national park idea. The movement to set aside the Tetons themselves
had evolved as part of the campaign to provide sanctuary for the
Yellowstone elk and their winter range in Jackson Hole. As Struthers
Burt put it, until the valley itself was fully protected, there remained
the distinct possibility that "the tiny Grand Teton National Park, which
is merely a strip along the base of the mountains, [will be] marooned
like a necklace lost in a pile of garbage." [49]
Given the failure of Congress in establishing Grand
Teton National Park to break with tradition by including the woodlands
and sagebrush flats of Jackson Hole, it remained for approval of park
status for the Florida Everglades to confirm the nation's pledge to
total preservation. [50] Isle Royale
National Park, in Michigan, authorized in 1931, preceded approval of the
Everglades by three years; but although Isle Royale was advocated as a
wilderness and wildlife preserve, nothing within its enabling act
actually bound the National Park Service to manage the reserve for these
values. Its supporters just as often singled out the island's "boldness"
and "ruggedness"—in short, its topographic as opposed to its
wilderness qualities. [51]
Jackson Hole, by virtue of its proximity to the Grand
Tetons, might also be defended solely as the mountains' "frame." The
Everglades had no dramatic geology to distract the American public from
preservationists' sincere belief that its primitive conditions alone
qualified the region for national park status. Rather then as now, the
Everglades was best described as "a river of grass." As such it lacks a
distinct channel with banks on either side; in reality its "streambed"
averages forty miles in width. Its flow arcs southward from Lake
Okeechobee—in the south-central portion of the state—to the
tidal estuaries and mangrove forests of the Gulf Coast and Florida Bay,
some 100 miles distant. The entire drop in elevation is but seventeen
feet, barely two inches per mile. But although the current moves slowly,
indeed almost imperceptibly, the lack of visible runoff is misleading as
to its importance. The creep of the water, for example, allows much of
it to seep underground, where it may be stored for future use by the
region's large, invisible aquifers. Similarly, nearer the coast, the
flow buttresses the tidelands against invasions of brackish seawater,
whose salinity might jeopardize certain species of flora and fauna. [52]
The present water cycle began approximately 5,000
years ago, when glacier-fed seas last ebbed and exposed the southern
Florida peninsula. The rainy season between June and October rejuvenated
the flow; in wetter years Lake Okeechobee itself often spilled,
providing the Everglades' "source." Storms moving in off the ocean
contributed additional runoff, until, by late fall, the sawgrass filled
to a depth of between one and two feet. Hurricanes and drought broke the
rhythm periodically, but they were temporary conditions and did little
to endanger the long-range survival of the plant and animal populations.
The threat of permanent interference awaited twentieth-century
profiteers, who disrupted, perhaps irreparably, the drainage pattern of
which the Everglades had long been a crucial link. [53]
The birdlife was first to suffer. By the turn of the
century feathers had become the rage of women's fashion, and southern
Florida, with its teeming populations of American and snowy egret, was a
prized source. Year after year the market hunters shot out the
rookeries. To thwart the poachers, responsible sportsmen and
conservationists organized the Association of Audubon Societies, after
the famed nineteenth-century naturalist John James Audubon. The murder
of one of its wardens by poachers in 1905, and the slaying of another
three years later, aroused public opinion and helped speed legislation
outlawing traffic in feathers. Yet the preservationists' victory was by
no means complete. Denied a steady source for plumage, many hunters
merely switched to poaching alligators, whose hides were also in growing
demand for belts, shoes, luggage, and handbags. Not until 1969, despite
the loss of 100,000 animals per year throughout the South as early as
1930, was the alligator fully protected by Congress as an endangered
species. [54]
Farming the Everglades proved equally threatening to
the longevity of its ecosystem. Because the mucklands immediately south
of Lake Okeechobee were especially rich, after World War I construction
began on a series of canals, locks, and dams to check its seasonal
overflows and drain the excess water to the sea. Yet these early
precautions against flooding were woefully inadequate. In 1926, and
again in 1928, severe hurricanes spilled the lake at a cost of 2,300
lives. The toll overshadowed the widespread flooding, crop, and property
damage. Conceivably, no time would have been more appropriate to
conclude that the Everglades should not have been settled in the first
place. Instead, in keeping with the nation's overriding utilitarian
philosophy, most of the survivors looked upon the disasters as proof of
the need for even greater control over Lake Okeechobee. In 1929,
therefore, the Florida legislature authorized the state to cooperate
with the federal government in placing a much more efficient system of
holding basins and drainage canals throughout the region. During the
next thirty years this network was continually expanded, largely under
the auspices of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. [55]
And so, as with Jackson Hole, the time when the
Everglades might have been set aside intact had slipped away. Once again
preservationists could only hope to stem the tide of development. But
that they would even make the attempt in the Everglades marked a radical
about-face for the national park idea. Devoid of topographical
uniqueness, no region lent more convincing testimony to the growing
popularity of complete conservation. Dr. Willard Van Name, for example,
associate curator of the American Museum of Natural History, spoke for a
growing number of preservationists when he asked if the absence of
"Yosemite Valleys or Yellowstone geysers in the eastern States" was all
that prevented the enjoyment and protection of "such beauties of nature
as we do have. National Parks have other important purposes besides
preserving especially remarkable natural scenery," he stated, "notably
that of preserving our rapidly vanishing wild life." In this regard no
portion of the East loomed as a more logical candidate for national park
status than the Everglades. "The movement to establish an Everglades
National Park in Florida appeals strongly to me," Gilbert Grosvenor,
president of the National Geographic Society, also testified. "Mount
Desert [Acadia], Shenandoah, Great Smoky, and Everglades—what a
magnificent string of Eastern Seaboard parks that would make!" [56]
The formation of the Tropic Everglades National Park
Association in 1928 officially launched the campaign. Over the next six
years the association's founder and chairman, Ernest F. Coe, a Miami
activist, worked tirelessly to introduce the Everglades to influential
congressmen, newspaper editors, journalists, scholars, and other park
devotees. To both aid the effort and lend it credibility in scientific
circles, Coe invited Dr. David Fairchild, an internationally recognized
botanist with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to head the
association as president. [57]
Establishment of the citizen's group provided a
sounding board for the inevitable debate regarding the suitability of
the Everglades for national park status. Indeed, as Ernest Coe and Dr.
Fairchild soon discovered, not all preservationists were in fact agreed
that a national park in the region would be desirable. Some suggested
that if the area warranted protection, a state park would be more than
adequate. Still others advocated a botanical reserve of some sort,
perhaps, but not necessarily under federal jurisdiction. Few rumblings
of dissent, however, were more disconcerting than the opposition of
William T. Hornaday, long hailed as one of America's leading spokesmen
for wildlife conservation. In the Everglades "I found mighty little that
was of special interest, and absolutely nothing that was picturesque or
beautiful," he asserted, recalling visits dating back to 1875; "both
then and now, . . . a swamp is a swamp." On a more charitable note, he
conceded that "the saw-grass Everglades Swamp is not as ugly and
repulsive as some other swamps that I have seen"; still he concluded:
"it is yet a long ways from being fit to elevate into a national
park, to put alongside the magnificent array of scenic wonderlands that
the American people have elevated into that glorious class." [58]
Especially in light of his own lifelong commitment to
wildlife conservation, Hornaday's rejection of an Everglades national
park on the basis of its physical shortcomings underscored how fixed the
image of parks as a visual experience had become in the American mind.
It followed that Ernest Coe, Dr. Fairchild, and their supporters had to
break down the barriers of that perception before they could educate the
nation to understand the Everglades' own brand of uniqueness. The
process of determining its suitability for national park status took the
form of several so-called "special" investigations. The first, conducted
by the National Park Service in February 1930, observed the requirements
of a bill passed by Congress under the auspices of Senator Duncan U.
Fletcher of Florida. Director Horace M. Albright led the inspection; the
first day out the party circled above the proposed park in a blimp
provided by the Goodyear Dirigible Corporation. "I believe," Albright
reported, "that the old idea of an Everglades with dense swamps and
lagoons festooned with lianas, and miasmatic swamps full of alligators
and crocodiles and venomous snakes was entirely shattered." In their
stead the group found forests, rivers, and plains supporting "many
thousands of herons and other wild waterfowl." Each member of the
investigation could well imagine, he concluded, "what an exceedingly
interesting educational exhibit this entire area would be if by absolute
protection these birds would multiply and the now rare species come back
into the picture for the enjoyment of future generations." [59]
Toward this end the Albright committee reached accord
that the Everglades would best be protected as a national park. "Before
leaving I sounded out the opinion of the individual members," he assured
the secretary of the interior, "and all were agreed that all standards
set for national park creation would be fully justified in the
establishment of this new park." [60]
Skeptics might still be found elsewhere, however. Those in Congress, for
example, succeeded in stalling the park bill another four years. The
suspicion of the National Parks Association, chaired by Stephen Mather's
former assistant, Robert Sterling Yard, also frustrated Albright, Ernest
F. Coe, and their associates. In 1919 Mather had sponsored the formation
of the National Parks Association in an effort to secure a private,
nonpartisan watchdog for national park standards. Yard, whom Mather
endorsed as first president, still took his job seriously—perhaps,
Albright now believed, too seriously. For example, the National Parks
Association would not, under any circumstances, accept pre-existing
man-made structures, especially dams and reservoirs, in new national
parks. Yard's reasoning was well-intentioned; like most preservationists
he feared setting a precedent which would lead to another Hetch Hetchy.
Might not their acceptance of extant dams, for example, be interpreted
by Congress as an admission of its right to dam Hetch Hetchy in the
first place? Yard's insistence on absolute purity, of course, left
little room for compromise. Indeed, not only was he skeptical of the
qualifications of the Everglades for national park status, [61] he also unequivocally opposed the
enlargement of Grand Teton National Park for fear the inclusion of
Jackson Lake—dammed as early as 1906—would be misconstrued as
proof of the legitimacy of such projects in any reserve. [62]
The preponderance of private land throughout the
Everglades gave rise to similar doubts. Some opponents even argued that
the national park project was simply a scheme advanced by real-estate
promoters to exaggerate the value of their holdings. Such skepticism in
part led to a second major investigation of the Everglades under the
auspices of the National Parks Association. Other sponsoring agencies
included the American Civic Association, the American Society of
Landscape Architects, and the National Association of Audubon Societies.
It was therefore fitting that the principal investigator for the survey
would be Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., whose authorship of key portions of
the National Park Service Act of 1916 had won the respect of each of
these groups. William P. Wharton, a naturalist, accompanied Olmsted; on
January 18, 1932, following two weeks of personal exploration in the
Everglades, they presented their findings to the trustees of the
National Parks Association.
Both the thoroughness of the report and the
reputation of its senior author finally convinced the National Parks
Association of the worthiness of the Everglades for national park
status. Without question, Olmsted and Wharton agreed, the region was
unique. "What we were chiefly concerned to study in the Florida
Everglades," they wrote, "was the validity or invalidity of doubts . . .
as to whether the area is really characterized by qualities properly
typical of our National Parks from the standpoint of scenery...." The
major preconception to be overcome was the belief that scenery must in
all cases be defined as landscape. And "in a good deal of the region,"
the men stated, revealing the difficulty of breaking down their own
prejudice, "the quality of the scenery is to the casual observer
somewhat confused and monotonous." Visitors might compare the region to
"other great plains," for example, whose scenic qualities were "perhaps
rather subtle for the average observer in search of the spectacular."
Yet even the topography of plains might be "simpler and bolder" in
appearance. The scenery of the Everglades was better described as an
emotional rather than a visual experience. Apart from landscape, it
consisted "of beauty linked with a sense of power and vastness in
nature." Granted, this indeed was scenery of the type "so different from
the great scenes in our existing National Parks"; still, the "sheer
beauty" of "the great flocks of birds, . . . the thousands upon
thousands of ibis and herons flocking in at sunset," could be a sight
"no less arresting, no less memorable than the impressions derived from
the great mountain and canyon parks of the West." [63]
To further compensate for its lack of rugged terrain,
the Everglades literally enthralled the visitor with its "sense of
remoteness!" and "pristine wilderness." Foremost among the elements of
the region to evoke this emotion was the mangrove forest bordering the
coast. "It is a monotonous forest, in the sense that the coniferous
forests of the north are monotonous." Yet "it is a forest not only
uninhabited and unmodified by man," they noted, "but literally trackless
and uninhabitable." Ten thousand people might boat through the region
every day and "leave no track upon the forest floor...." Again the
average visitor might not yet grasp the essence of wilderness; still,
even for him, the men repeated, the Everglades should "rank high among
the natural spectacles of America" by virtue of its great wildlife
populations alone. [64]
Admittedly, where it called attention to the quantity
of animals involved, the Olmsted-Wharton report was a throwback to the
past. Much as those who felt compelled to compare the wonders of the
West and Europe to the inch, their own sense of the need to speak in
superlatives about the Everglades suggests some degree of self-doubt
that the region could in fact stand on its own merits. Still, to now
justify a national park exclusively on the basis of wildlife, indeed, to
defend wildlife itself as scenery regardless of its physical backdrop,
revealed how dramatically the national park idea might depart from the
standards held by the great majority of early park supporters.
As testimony to the depth of that transformation, the
Everglades National Park Act specifically called for total preservation
of the region. While the Olmsted-Wharton report ad dressed the policy in
principle, setbacks such as the Jackson Hole controversy convinced
defenders of the Everglades that the concept would not necessarily be
practiced in the field. Accordingly, they were insistent that an
appropriate clause be drafted and included in the park's enabling act.
"Such opposition as has been evidenced among organizations to the
Everglades Bill," Horace Albright's successor, Arno B. Cammerer,
explained, in April 1934, "has been directed to the form of the bill and
not to the project, and solely to the alleged insufficiency that the
future wilderness character of the area was not fully provided for." On
the basis of the Olmsted-Wharton report, the National Parks Association
spearheaded the drive for enactment of the Everglades as a wilderness
preserve. "I would not object to a restatement of this principle in an
amendment to the bill," Secretary of the Interior Harold Ickes agreed,
"if . . . such an amendment would not endanger its passage." [65]
Congressional approval of the bill as amended, on May
30, 1934, was seen by all concerned as a major victory for complete
conservation. Indeed, how else could the park be interpreted, asked
Ernest F. Coe—"it has no mountains, its highest elevation being
less than eight feet above sea level?" Rather the "spirit" of Everglades
National Park, in fact its very inspiration, he maintained, "is
primarily the preservation of the primitive." [66] For the first time the language of park
legislation had been unmistakably clear in committing the federal
government to such management. Section 4 of the enabling act began: "The
said area or areas shall be permanently reserved as a wilderness"
[italics added]. Similarly, no development of the park to provide access
to visitors must "interfere with the preservation intact of the unique
flora and fauna and the essential primitive conditions." This clause
alone, Coe noted, marked a momentous "evolution" in the character and
standards of the national parks. In the provision was clear evidence of
the growing respect for "natural ecological relations," of "that
interlocking balanced relation between the animate and the inanimate
world." The national parks "have much of interest in bold topography and
other uniqueness," Dr. John K. Small of the New York Botanical Garden
agreed. "Why not also have a unique area exhilarating by its lack of
topography and charming by its matchless vegetation and animal life?"
[67]
With the authorization of Everglades National Park,
Congress answered on a positive note. Of course there were the usual
preconditions. Most notably, as with Shenandoah, Great Smoky, Isle
Royale, and similar projects, again it remained for the state of Florida
and its friends to actually purchase the land for the park. Similarly,
before Congress would make the reserve official, the property must be
deeded over to the federal government with no strings attached. As a
result, formal dedication of Everglades National Park did not come until
1947. Still, nothing during the interval affected its guiding purpose as
a wilderness and wildlife preserve. To the contrary, as early as 1937
the federal government reaffirmed the precedent set forth in the
Everglades with authorization of Cape Hatteras National Seashore, in
North Carolina, "as a primitive wilderness." Except for certain areas
best devoted to outdoor recreation, no portion of the park was to be
administered in a manner "incompatible with the preservation of the
unique flora and fauna" or the original "physiographic conditions." [68] Again nothing in the salt marshes and sand
dunes of Cape Hatteras could be linked with monumentalism; like the
Everglades, the first national seashore in the United States was the
direct beneficiary of the distinctions advanced under the heading of
"complete conservation." At Cape Hatteras the nation once more paid
formal recognition to the virtues of protecting an ecosystem for its own
sake. And, in time, the genre of parks begun astride the breakers of
North Carolina blossomed into an impressive string of preserves along
all of the nation's coasts. [69] None, to be
sure, were national parks in the traditional sense; simply, if the
national park idea was now to be truly representative of the American
scene, tradition must make way for ecological reality. [70]
Everglades National Park was the all-important
precedent. The sincerity of attempts to apply total preservation to
existing national parks might still be discredited by their imposing
topography. Totally devoid of the mileposts of cultural nationalism, the
Everglades confirmed the depth of commitments to protect more than the
physical environment. Granted, preservationists initially had trouble
convincing themselves of the need to break with tradition. Gradually,
however, as they closed ranks, for the first time new avenues of scenic
protection became a real possibility. If any single doubt remained, it
was the most enduring one of all. However the United States defined
"conservation" or applied it to the national parks, could their friends
make it stick?
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