Chapter 12:
The 1980s
AT SOME POINT IN A NARRATIVE THAT MOVES TOWARD THE
PRESENT, the account ceases to be history and evolves into a chronicle
of current events. We have reached this point. It could be justifiably
argued that the elusive date occurred several decades ago, that date
after which events have not been filtered through enough time to gain
the objectivity essential to an evaluation of their relationships and
their relative significance. But the Mesa Verde saga does not stop at
some point to wait for a historian's evaluationit stretches on
into an unknown future.
Our philosophical musings may seem trivial when
weighed against the Anasazi epic. Why should we in the twentieth century
presume to be the arbiters of historical chronology? A valid claim could
be made that the history of Mesa Verde ended with the Anasazi habitation
and that everything since then falls into the category of current
events.
Nonetheless, "With weeping and with laughter, Still
is the story told," in the words of the nineteenth-century English poet
Thomas Macaulay. Inquisitive visitors continue to come and wonder at the
silent shadows of a vanished people. After the disastrous slides and the
gasoline shortages of 1979, visitation rebounded strongly in 1980, a
trend noticeable in many western parks in the 1980s. A visitor-origin
survey conducted in late July 1980 provided interesting information
about where tourists came from. (License plates no longer gave reliable
information, since so many cars are rented in Colorado.) Colorado
retained its number one ranking, with 15.6 percent of the visitor total.
Texas, California, and Arizona followed the host state. Neighboring New
Mexico was in fifth place, after West Germany. Confirming the trend over
the past twenty years, 11.8 percent of the visitors came from foreign
countries, mostly European. Because of a favorable exchange rate for the
German mark, West Germany led the foreign contingent with 3.9 percent of
the total. Thirty-one foreign countries (the most distant was Australia)
were represented. Park visitation had become truly global. To
accommodate this international interest, the park staff continued to
distribute handouts in German, Japanese, French, and Spanish. [1]
Bilingual rangers were much harder to come by than
foreign visitors. The problem was not all linguistic. As Superintendent
Robert Heyder, a California-born, twenty-five-year veteran of the
National Park Service, points out: "A lot of times they may be
linguistically fluent in conversation, but not especially fluent in
archaeology." Fortunately, most Europeans who come to the United States
possess at least a passable understanding of English. Nonetheless,
recruitment of multilingual rangers remains a challenge for the National
Park Service; the foreign visitor has embraced the United States'
national parks with great enthusiasm.
The things that tourists considered to be "extremely
important" to them during their Mesa Verde visit were evaluated by a
survey in 1983. Park cleanliness led the list, followed by information
about the park, "clean, clear air," self-guided tours, and overlook
sites to view the ruins from the canyon rim. The priorities expected by
the park's administrators, such as museum displays, interpretive signs,
and park rangers/interpreters, trailed well behind the leaders. The
public also attached great importance to the opportunity to see a
variety of flowers, trees, birds, and animals. The public was also well
aware of the pollution haze that sometimes hung over Mesa Verde, and
they strongly voiced the opinion that it detracted from their overall
enjoyment of the park. [2]
Except for a dip in 1984, visitor totals have
continued to rebound; they reached 658,000 in 1986, still 18,000 behind
the park's all-time best year of 1976. To make the public accommodations
more comfortable, ARA has remodeled and added to its Far View complex,
even to the point of installing a television set in the ever-popular
Sipapu Lounge, so that visitors can enjoy a relaxing drink without
missing their favorite programs. The accoutrements of twentieth-century
life continue to invade Mesa Verde relentlessly.
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Chief Park Archaeologist Gil Wenger
(left), Superintendent Robert Heyder (right), and a delegation of
Chinese visitors prove that Mesa Verde had become an international
attraction by the 1980s. (Courtesy: Mesa Verde National
Park)
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In a new six-year experimental program, in 1986 ARA
took over operation of the Morefield Campground from the National Park
Service, which continues to provide major upkeep and law enforcement.
The popular campground, with 477 individual and 17 group spaces, is the
third largest in the park system.
ARA, along with the National Park Service, has come
in for its share of criticism over the years, particularly from people
who thought that it had failed to maintain the concessionaire spirit or
the publicity efforts of the old Mesa Verde Company. ARA lost the
exclusive right to provide public transportation within the park in
1983, but in all other ways has maintained the operations as before.
Even with some problems, the concessionaires' record of accomplishments
at Mesa Verde continues to be very good; compared to Yellowstone, where
constant troubles led to the firing of one company, the record here has
been exemplary. [3] Mesa Verde had been
fortunate in the postwar years. The foundation laid by Ansel Hall had
held solid and been modified as necessary; both the park and the visitor
benefited enormously.
The never-ending battle to preserve the ruins and
ensure that the public would always have something worthy to see has
rolled on year after year. An important milestone in this ongoing effort
passed almost unnoticed in 1984, the fiftieth anniversary of a permanent
ruins stabilization program. From April through November, the staff
carried out crucial maintenance/stabilization projects. Most visitors
fail to realize that anything that has been exposed, excavated, or
stabilized requires "a lot of maintenance each year, particularly the
mesa top ruins." An innovation in preservation was triedplacing
temporary covers over the mesa-top ruins to protect them during the
winter season. The effort proved to be expensive; $3.2 million was spent
in 1986 for nylon "curtains tinted in sandstone color" to help protect
ten of the park's most delicate kivas and pithouses, obviously the most
susceptible to erosion. [4] Those sites
were normally closed during the off-season, so visitors would not feel
cheated by being unable to see them on their winter tour.
Of course, stabilization is more than just
maintenance for the "wear and tear" of the cliff dwellings and mesa
sites that the public actually visits. Chief Park Archaeologist Jack
Smith has devised a continuing program for the important backcountry
ruins. Although limited by funding and logistics, "we've built up quite
a record of stabilization in remote areas." The project involves
checking the "state of the ruin" for signs of vandalism and developing a
work plan. Smith's crew has a decided transportation advantage over its
predecessors:
The big problem is getting to the places, not only the people, but
water, tools, stabilization supplies, etc. We have been very lucky.
There has been a helicopter available to us all the years this back
country program has been going on. It is stationed here for fire
fighting duties, and we fit ourselves in during the free time. . . .
That way we can do this work in ruins that would virtually be impossible
if we had to go on foot. It is almost prohibitive the old way; now we
can fly in and out in a few minutes. [5]
Inroads from the modern world thus have their
positive side.
Regrettably, Wetherill Mesa has never won public
favor. Even in its best years, it has attracted just over ten percent of
the visitor total. Perhaps the popularity of the museum and the
better-known ruins overwhelmed it; more likely, the concept of a bus
visit never caught on. The opportunity to visit Wetherill Mesa lay near
the bottom of the 1983 list of attributes that visitors named as
essential to a successful experience. The individual freedom and ease of
access found on Chapin Mesa defeated the best-laid plans for the more
regulated Wetherill Mesa tour.
The unexpected underutilization of Wetherill Mesa
stimulated plans for change. It came with the 1987 season, when, for the
first time, visitors were permitted to drive private cars to Wetherill
Mesa. From the parking lot, the shuttle still carried tourists to the
ruins. Easier to overcome than visitor disinterest were the recurring
swarms of yellow jacket wasps, which threatened the public at Step House
and in the Wetherill Mesa snack bar. [6]
They could not be classified as part of the wildlife that visitors
wanted to experience first hand.
In contrast with the low rating of the bus tour,
"clean, crisp air" ranked near the top of the list of attractions, and
the Park Service has worked diligently to maintain it. Of equal
importance, it has attempted to get back what it had lost. At times the
effort seems an all-consuming, expensive, and very discouraging struggle
toward an elusive goal. Testing for acid rain (which has already
showered the park), monitoring of air quality, and visual observations
have continued unabated during the 1980s, with more complex equipment;
each season of investigation has produced a larger data base from which
to work. Down the road, if the present trend persists, there will quite
likely be major litigation, because the park is enjoined by federal law
to prosecute violators of the federal air standards. Assessing his
tenure at Mesa Verde, Heyder says, "I think that [air quality] is one of
the big things I have been involved in in my career here." The issue can
only grow larger for Superintendent Heyder and his successors.
The park staff is fighting to preserve one of the
great heritages of Mesa Verde: the stunning, sweeping panoramas of
mountain, valley, and desert that present themselves to view around
nearly every corner as one climbs the mesa or drives along the rim. The
very first explorers had commented on the pristine vistas, and the
government record goes back to 19051906, as part of the testimony
on the park bill. A 1906 report concluded that the trail running into
Mesa Verde "is one of the grandest and most extensive views in the
country." Now, after all these years, such intangible treasures are
threatened, and all Americans will lose if the shortsightedness of the
present is allowed to cloud the environment and to dictate the future.
The inability to control the threat of human beings to this priceless
treasure speaks sadly of current priorities, as the boundaries between
parks and civilization are narrowed.
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One of the pleasures for the Mesa Verde
staff is cross-country skiing in some of the region's most beautiful
country. (Courtesy: Mesa Verde National Park)
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The park's own contribution to pollution was the
easiest to solve of the crimes against nature. Use of solar water
heaters conserved energy and helped to improve air quality. Wherever
possible, the use of electricity and fossil fuels was curtailed, an
innovation that saved money and eliminated some of the engine exhaust
and smoke. [7]
Mesa Verde, though it honors the past, nevertheless
moves with the tide of present and future. The "computer age" arrived in
1984, and the next year a computer programmer was hired. Mesa Verde held
out enormous computer possibilities. With its 4,009 ruins and its
artifacts, library, documents, and photographs all crying to be
catalogued and programmed, the park was a prime candidate for use of
computers. The researcher and the archaeologist of the future will find
their tasks simplified once the conversion is completed.
Progress has also been made in hiring women and
minorities, particularly among the seasonal employees. Originally,
Navajos furnished 90 percent of the work force, but that practice
changed decades ago, and hiring patterns became oriented toward white,
Anglo-Saxon males. Now a concerted effort is being made to change those
patterns. For example, department heads have visited colleges to recruit
women and minorities, and Beverly Cunningham was appointed federal
women's coordinator. Efforts, including Braille park folders and
wheelchair ramps, have also been made to improve the park's
accessibility to the handicapped. Some of nature's barriers, however,
have proved nearly insurmountable in attempting to allow full access to
all the park's attractions by the handicapped.
The neighboring Utes have not fared so well. The
legacy of Indian mistrust and government exasperation has continued in
the 1980s. The loop road on Chapin Mesa, which crossed reservation land
as a result of surveying errors, incited clashes between the two
factions, including ones involving roadside advertising and an attempt
to collect tolls. By mid-decade, the two were confronting each other
over road location, water, and sewage connections to this small parcel
of land on Soda Point, which the Utes had ideas of developing. The
ultimate decision may have to be made in court.
For the Utes, developments that included helicopter
rides and snowcone stands were intended to create jobs and bring in
revenue for a reservation suffering from 60 percent unemployment. A
displeased National Park Service considered the Indians' enterprises "an
undignified intrusion on the peace of Mesa Verde National Park."
Negotiations, once again, seem to be tangled in a web of
misunderstanding and cultural differences. [8] After eighty years, these two antagonists
hardly appear to be any closer to reaching a compromise than they ever
were.
With some things new and some things old, activities
of the park go on. Park staff (comprising forty-eight permanent and
seventy-six seasonals in 1986) still complain about too numerous and
overlong meetings and training sessions; one on self-development,
entitled "What I Think, Is Why It Is," drew yawns. The ski slope of
yesteryear has disappeared, but the tennis court has held on to its
status as a popular attraction on a warm summer evening. Its rival now
is volleyball, one of the newly popular activities for young America.
Jogging and bicycling claim adherents: Who could ask for more beautiful
country in which to exercise? Yet recreational options for the staff
remain limited; even with better roads, the nearest town is still
fortyfive minutes away, and most of the backcountry is off limits.
A sign of the intrusion of the modern world came in
the beautifully produced 1984 guide, which warned that "park visitors
can be the target of professional thieves." Among the recommendations
were to lock cars and to take "valuables with you or leave them in a
secure place." Some rules, of course, never changed; parents were
sternly warned to keep their children away from canyon rims and to
caution the youngsters not to throw rocks or objects into canyons.
Reiterating an old theme, park visitors were admonished to consider the
varied altitudes of the park before they set off on hikes or climbed
down into ruins. To enrich the public's appreciation of the park, the
Mesa Verde Museum Association has maintained its dedicated work in the
interpretive area and in its remarkable little bookstore in the museum.
The Association estimated in 1985 that it had reached over 800,000
persons through its publications and sales. [9] The discerning visitor was being well
served by this group and by the museum, both of which continued in the
tradition Jesse Nusbaum had established for them over forty years
before.
A particularly busy time for the Association and for
the park came in September 1984 when Mesa Verde served as host to the
First World Conference on Cultural Parks. Mesa Verde had been designated
a World Heritage Cultural Site by UNESCO just six years earlier. The
park was recognized for meeting all the criteria for inclusion:
outstanding universal anthropological, ethnological, historical, and
aesthetic values. It was the only site in the United States to be so
honored. This recognition by the international community has helped to
expand interest in the park and no doubt has served as an impetus to
increased foreign visitation.
Planning for the conference began in the early 1980s
and went "down to the wire as far as conference planning goes." The
themepreservation and use of cultural treasuresappropriately
honored the man to whom the conference was dedicated, Gustaf
Nordenskiold. [10] Those who attended
caught the global vision of the need for care and management of the
world's priceless cultural resources.
Special events were staged to increase the visibility
of Mesa Verde's cultural attractions. At one of them, an Indian arts and
crafts festival, the artists had the opportunity to sell their works and
the public had the opportunity to experience the native culture. This
idea, slightly modified, was extended into 1987 with a permanent art
gallery at Spruce Tree Point. The Telluride Chamber Players, who have
appeared in concert in the "magnificent setting" of the Spruce Tree
Amphitheater, have added the new dimension of classical music. [11] Mesa Verde's cultural mission is advancing
along a wider front than ever before; Virginia McClurg would
approve.
All these events have helped to attract more
tourists, delighting local merchants and neighboring communities.
Durango, though, has failed to exploit its position to the extent that
it had done in the past. The trend appearing in the 1970s became obvious
in the 1980s, as the promotion of local attractions pushed Mesa Verde
into a secondary position. Durango merchant Jackson Clark explained:
I don't think that people in Durango have any conception that they
have a rare prehistoric national treasure there. I think if you go up
and down the street and you ask people in service stations, garages,
motels, and restaurants what's there to see at Mesa Verde, most of them
will tell you, "I've never been there." I heard a clerk at the Strater
Hotel say one time, "Oh, you don't want to go over there, just a bunch
of dead Indians . . . a bunch of broken down houses; they have no
significance." I think that's the thing. [12]
The substance of this trend to downplay Mesa Verde
cannot be denied. However, by the mid-1980s, a major reason for it lay
in the more sophisticated tourist analysis and promotional efforts by
Durango, not in a calculated effort to snub Mesa Verde. With limited
funds, the Durango Chamber/Resort Association targeted certain groups
with specific appeals. Mesa Verde led the list for international groups,
because they were "high on parks." The majority of the city's promotion
was directed toward the national market, where Americans' love affair
with the narrow-gauge steam engine made the train between Durango and
Silverton the number one attraction; skiing took first place in the
winter. The Association did work closely with ARA to advertise Mesa
Verde National Park as part of the total package. [13]
Superintendent Heyder has tried to bridge the miles
and create more cooperation between the park and Durango. Too often,
however, he and others have run up against the generations-old rivalry
between Cortez and Durango. The prevailing conception seems to be that
the park belongs to Cortez and the train to Durango, albeit, as Heyder
pointed out, "I don't think the park really belongs to any town, it is a
national park." Rivalry and competition, instead of cooperation, still
characterize the relationship between the two communities, and they
rarely collaborate on promoting Mesa Verde, which unquestionably brings
tourists and profits to both communities. Heyder has also pinpointed
another problem that has long troubled southwestern Coloradansthe
lack of support from the more populous eastern slope of Colorado beyond
the Continental Divide:
This area seems, kind of regrettably, almost a stepchild of the
eastern slope. . . . You read the Denver papers and there is very little
about this corner of the state. . . . I wouldn't go so far as to say
they are not interested in this part of the state, but there are times
that make you wonder. [14]
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Virginia McClurg would have been pleased
with the variety of cultural events now available to visitors. This
performance is by the Telluride (Colorado) String Ensemble.
(Courtesy: Mesa Verde National Park)
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The parsimonious coverage given the park in the 1980s
by the Denver Post, the "voice of the Rocky Mountain Empire," as
it calls itself, gives credence to the allegation.
Southwestern Colorado's feeling of isolation reflects
not only its true physical isolation but also its lack of political
power, a dash of parochialism, and a weak financial base, laced with a
certain amount of urban jealousy. The debate began to intensify in the
mid-twentieth century, when the development of natural resources,
particularly water, and a fair sharing of state revenues became topics
of critical importance. Colorado's Front Range urban corridor,
stretching from Fort Collins to Pueblo, holds 80 percent of the state's
population and controls its political and economic heart. Real or
fancied slights of the Western Slope are perhaps unintentional, and city
dwellers are often unaware of their impact on rural southwestern
Coloradans. Regardless, the impression of neglect has created
antagonistic thoughts and reactions. Denver, the symbol as much as the
cause of all the animosity, seems aloof and patronizing to its country
cousin, the distant corner of Colorado. Some of the surrounding Four
Corners states have been much more forthright and aggressive in
advertising the attractions of this area than the home state has been.
"I think it is sad, I think they [Denver and the state] have a hell of a
lot to offer to promote Mesa Verde tourism." [15] Nothing has as yet been able to reconcile
Durango and Cortez or to attract Denver's lasting attention and
involvement. In the end, everyone stands to gain by pulling together
toward a common goal.
The impact of Mesa Verde on neighboring communities
and tourism has permeated the park's history and promises to weigh
heavily on its future. One issue of the past appears to have faded into
insignificance, howeverthe specter of the Manitou Springs cliff
dwellings. Superintendent Heyder observed in 1987 that the park only
occasionally now receives letters about Manitou. Perhaps that
regrettable heritage of McClurg's bitterness has, at last, been put to
rest.
Mesa Verde National Park quietly passed its eightieth
birthday in 1986. It has more than fulfilled the expectations of the
women who fought so long and hard to preserve it. Compared to the
amounts first allocated for the park, the 1986 budget of $2,337,400,
plus supplementals, might seem like the mother lode of government
funding, but in the 1980s the park is still plagued by the unwelcome
specter of fiscal problems caused by inadequate funding. It is a serious
concern to the park administration. With pollution drifting in and
visitation increasing, the fiscal squeeze threatens to shape the park's
future in crucial ways. Making matters worse are the Mancos shale and
the roads that cross it, which are, after all these years, still a
primary source of anxiety for the Park Service at Mesa Verde. Over $3
million was spent in 1983 for stabilization of the entrance road through
the slide area. [16] All the expense and
effort of the past decade cannot guarantee that the slides will not run
again.
Mesa Verde has managed to escape some of the major
problems that threaten other national parks, including urban
encroachment, development that threatens scenic resources, and
contamination of freshwater sources. Mesa Verde has been able to retain
much of its pristine environment through all the decades, largely
because of its isolated location and the lack of surrounding
urbanization.
The final page of Mesa Verde's archaeological
chronicle has not been inscribed. The region is not a "sucked orange,"
as someone confidently affirmed some eighty years ago. So far the
systematic search for sites has only been completed on Wetherill and
Chapin mesas. Many unexcavated ruins remain, an archaeological mecca to
draw future generations of archaeologists, who will arrive on the scene
with advanced techniques for excavation and methods of analysis. Park
Archaeologist Smith sees a changing role for Mesa Verde. He does not
predict another Wetherill Mesa Project in the near future, or much park
excavation.
I think the future of archaeology here is a very restricted one that
will be focused mainly on preservation of archaeological ruins as they
are. . . . The reason for this is that there is such a rapid
disappearance of the archaeological ruins outside the park. . . . I can
foresee sometime in the future that there will be virtually nothing left
outside the park boundaries for archaeologists to work on. So we see it
as a kind of preserve to be sat upon, to be protected, to be kept
intact, until there is a heck of a good reason to do the digging. [17]
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The official opening of the completed
Wetherill Mesa Archaeological Project, June 13, 1987. Congressman Ben
Nighthorse Campbell (second from right) challenged his listeners to
remember the lessons and the legacy of Mesa Verde. Visitation in 1987
set a record: 728,569; of these visitors, 43,102 visited Wetherill Mesa.
(Courtesy: Mesa Verde National Park)
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The value of these ruins "is in the excavation and
what they will tell us."
Public awareness and concern have slowed, but never
ended, vandalism and looting outside the park; they have been stopped
inside it, for the most part. The Ute Mountain Utes are determined to
preserve the sites to the south that lie on their reservation. With that
avenue of entry closed and the park itself largely isolated from
dig-and-run vandals, the prospects for achieving that preservation for
future generations seem promising.
The attempt to solve the mysteries of the Anasazi
continues. The path that Jackson, the Wetherills, and Nordenskiold
excitedly started down a century ago stretches on into the future.
Although the full story may never be known, each bit and piece of
evidence expands our appreciation of those fascinating people and their
struggle to maintain life in the rugged Mesa Verde country. The
narrative and the interpretation are ever expanding. Each return visit
to the park will provide new insights and experiences. Only the most
blasé twentieth-century tourists would find nothing new to excite
their interest.
Mesa Verde is timeless, a cultural park that speaks
to the past, the present, and the future. In her January 31, 1916,
article in the Denver Times, Willa Cather spoke for her age and
tomorrow:
Dr. Johnson declared that man is an historical animal. Certainly it
is the human record, however slight, that stirs us most deeply, and a
country without such a record is dumb, no matter how beautiful. The Mesa
Verde is not, as many people think, an inconveniently situated museum.
It is the story of an early race, of the social and religious life of a
people indigenous to that soil and to its rocky splendors. It is the
human expression of that land of sharp contours, brutal contrasts,
glorious color and blinding light. The human consciousness, as we know
it today, dwelt there, and a feeling for beauty and order was certainly
not absent.
Jean Pinkley, fifty years later, in April 1966,
agreed with Cather and further concluded about the park she loved:
Though Mesa Verde was set aside primarily to preserve and use wisely
the prehistoric manifestations, the scenery is unique, and spectacular,
the animal and plant life varied and interesting, and the geology
presents a good example of certain phases of earth history. . . . This
national park commemorates and reminds us of the debt we owe to those
who have gone before. It gives pause to the brash citizen who proclaims
that our good way of life is the invention and attainment of one
particularly ingenious generation of Americans. It humbles our citizens
into the realization that we owe so very much to all of the people of
all lands and all times. [18]
The story of Mesa Verde National Park has been and
will continue to be the struggle to preserve the Anasazi heritage and to
interpret what happened here for future generations to enjoy and to
learn from. May it never be said that Americans failed in their trust,
their stewardship of this treasure.
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