CHAPTER FIVE:
The Churches at Valley Forge
It was Washington's Birthday 1903 and the Rev. Dr. W.
Herbert Burk, rector of All Saints' Church in Norristown, Pennsylvania,
was delivering his sermon. His subject was of course George Washington,
whom he identified as a dedicated churchmana vestryman and warden
in his own Truro parish. The rector argued that Washington's greatness
was the product of his religious nature, something the rector described
as a rare quality in "that dark age of Deism which welcomed the cheap
infidelity of 'Tom' Paine" and the "selfish maxims of Poor Richard." [1]
In Burk's mind was a vision, the inspiring image of a
solitary and steadfast Washington kneeling in the snow at Valley Forge
and placing his trust in God during one of his life's darkest hours. The
rector urged his congregation:
Would that there we might rear the wayside chapel,
fit memorial of the Church's most honored son, to be the Nation's Bethel
for all days to come, where the American patriot might kneel in quest of
that courage and that strength to make all honorable his citizenship
here below, and prove his claim to that above! [2]
The chapel that did eventually rise at Valley Forge
would give Burk the lifetime job of defending Washington's religious
nature against those who questioned whether Washington had been the
ideal churchman. In his 1903 sermon, Burk declared, "No accusations of
the modern self-appointed iconoclast, who would discount the religion of
him whom we honor, can make us forget either the evidences of his
private devotions nor the records of public worship." [3] In later years, Burk would carefully comb
through Washington's writings, picking out sixty prayers and
benedictions. Did the spot have to be marked on the Duportail map for
people to believe that Washington had knelt in the snow? he would ask
sarcastically. [4] Burk would never claim
that he knew the precise place or the exact circumstances, but he had
faith that, somewhere on the slopes of Mount Joy, Washington had indeed
sought God's help for his army. [5]
In early 1903, the wayside chapel at Valley Forge
existed only in Burk's mind, but in a memoir she wrote of her husband's
work at Valley Forge, Eleanor Burk recalled that immediately after his
Washington's Birthday sermon the initial step was taken to make his
dream come true. The boys and girls of Burk's congregation took up his
cause and pledged the first $100 for the Washington Memorial Chapel. [6]
W. Herbert Burk was born in 1867, son of the Rev.
Jesse Y. Burk, who was rector of Old Saint Peter's in Clarksboro, New
Jersey. Burk attended the Philadelphia Divinity School of the Protestant
Episcopal Church and also received a bachelor's degree in divinity from
the University of Pennsylvania. After being ordained in 1894, he became
rector of the Church of the Ascension in Gloucester City, New Jersey,
then moved on to Saint John's in Norristown and then to All Saints'. He
married twice, the first time to Abbie Jessup Reeves, who died in 1907,
and the second time to Eleanor Hallowell Stroud.
Photographs and portraits show that Burk had a round
baby face, a physical feature that masked the iron determination of this
man who met challenges head-on. During a freak snowstorm one Easter
Sunday, he forced his car through deep snow on the road from the
Washington Memorial Chapel to Port Kennedy, blazing a trail that
parishioners could follow to church. [7]
After he decided that his parish at Valley Forge needed a cemetery, he
was once observed driving a mule team to finish the grading. [8] Sometimes Burk's physical strength failed to
match his willthere are allusions in the parish records to illness
caused by overwork and nervous disorders. Some contemporaries complained
that Burk was never fully esteemed. A writer for the Norristown
Herald contended, "[Burk] is a lonely figure, in attempting almost
single-handed to do a work every patriot should assist in doing. . . .
His efforts have not as yet been appreciated." [9]
Burk claimed that the initial inspiration for a
wayside chapel at Valley Forge came to him one day when he took his
Norristown choir boys there for an outing. They made their visit in
pre-Pennypacker days, when the park was still forlorn and neglected.
They started their tour at Fort Washington then an overgrown mound
identified only by a signboard. They saw Valley Creek with its covered
bridge, and pushed uphill through thick undergrowth until they stumbled
over the entrenchments on Mount Joy, singing "Onward Christian Soldiers"
to keep their spirits up. Burk decided to make a short speech but was
ashamed to discover that he knew so little about Valley Forge. He gave
the boys Valley Forge's traditional spiritual message, "the message of
Divine strength and comfort, of victory through suffering, of
achievement through prayer" (as he later remembered it). [10] The outing convinced Burk that Valley Forge
was in danger of grievous misuse: it was well on its way to becoming a
picnic ground, a highly inappropriate role for the place where he
believed some 3,000 American patriots had died and lay buried. He later
wrote:
Their dust makes it hallowed ground, as the blood
from their frozen feet made the Old Gulph Road, up which the defeated
army marched to Valley Forge, the Via Sacra of the American people. To
trample this ground in thoughtless levity, or boisterous sport is a
desecration of their graves, an insult to their memory, and a crime
against the Republic which their sacrifices won for us. [11]
Michael Kammen speaks of a trend beginning in the
late eighteenth century in which "nationalism and political ideology
started to supplant, at least partially, a role that religion had
customarily fulfilled in our culture." [12]
By the 1880s and 1890s he states, people increasingly turned to history
rather than religion for inspiration, thus blurring the dividing line
between the two. Many sermons used examples from history, while
historical pageants assumed religious overtones. [13] In Burk's mind a church at Valley Forge
would make sense as a special kind of memorial emphasizing the sacred
nature of the reserved land and engendering a respect appropriate for
the place. At a time when the park commission was offering no active
interpretation of the Valley Forge experience, a church pulpit was also
a vehicle through which that message could be distilled and promulgated
in conformity with the tenets of the Protestant religion, then
considered the official religion of America by its largely Protestant
leaders.
Despite his determination, Burk did not accomplish
all that he had planned because most Americans viewed Valley Forge as a
place neither completely sacred nor secular. Burk took on his task
apparently without the full support of his own superiors in the
Episcopal church. An author who knew Burk recalled:
The bishop of the diocese could see no reason for
erecting a chapel in a place where there were few people; and, above all
things, a chapel which, before it was finished, might
costmillions. He smiled benevolently, as is the habit of bishops,
and put his ecclesiastical foot down. Both feet. So did everyone else
whom Dr. Burk consulted, that is to say, everyone who could by any
chance have assisted him in this undertaking, among them the writer of
this paper. Then people having neither judgement, experience, nor money
came to his assistanceand made his work more difficult. It is
altogether possible that, without the example of Washington himself, Dr.
Burk might never have overcome the obstacles which confronted him. [14]
Burk's efforts followed an earlier attempt to found a
church at Valley Forge that had met with even less success. In 1885,
Baptist minister James M. Guthrie began raising funds for a new church
on the site of an old Valley Forge chapel or meetinghouse thought to
have been in use before the Revolution. [15] In July 1886, new foundations were built
and a cornerstone was dedicated. Guthrie had plans for a blue marble
structure built of blocks cut from the quarries of King of Prussia,
Pennsylvania. Every slab would be inscribed with a name. Each signer of
the Declaration of Independence, and each Revolutionary hero of Valley
Forge, would have his or her name inscribed on a marble block, as would
the modern-day schools and teachers who contributed money. [16]
A year went by and no further construction work was
done on the church. Within another year, it was reported that Guthrie
was leaving the First Baptist Church in Pottsville to dedicate himself
to his project at Valley Forge. [17] He
raised money, but two more years passed without visible results. A Bucks
County teacher wrote:
He sent circulars to the schools of Bucks County as
well as Montgomery, asking for contributions, and promising that for $3
contributed by a school, that school should have its name inscribed on
one of the marble blocks of the building, and also that the one giving
the highest amount should receive the paper of which he was then editor
free for one year. My pupils subscribed $3, and each received only one
copy of the paper. I have his receipt for the money, dated April 1,
1887. I have written repeatedly to him in regard to it, but have
received no answer. [18]
In 1890, the Philadelphia Baptist Association issued
a report restraining Guthrie from receiving any more money for his
Valley Forge church until he rendered a satisfactory account of the
funds he had so far collected. [19] Guthrie
had been promising this information for some time but had failed to
provide it, and after the Baptist hierarchy got involved he apparently
left the area. Grass grew over the church's foundation, and in 1901 a
magazine article noted that the site had fallen into ruin, its
cornerstone "used as a target by the gunners who traverse the hills."
[20]
Only two years later, Burk began holding services at
Valley Forge without a church building. The POS of A lent him its Valley
Forge meeting hall, and Burk advertised his first service through
handbills and notices in the local papers. On May 17, 1903, just a few
months after his Washington's Birthday sermon, Burk preached at Valley
Forge. Years later he recalled that his first congregation had consisted
of "a woman and baby from Valley Forge and a woman and a boy from
Bridgeport." [21] After the POS of A
declined the continued use of their hall, Burk moved to Blackburn's Hall
in Port Kennedy. [22] He soon acquired his
own piece of Valley Forge real estate when I. Heston Todd, who had
supposedly been inspired by Burk's Washington's Birthday sermon, donated
land then located outside the boundaries of Valley Forge State Park.
June 19, 1903, was the 125th anniversary of the
evacuation of Washington's army from Valley Forge. Despite a threat of
rain, between 5,000 and 6,000 people attended, including Pennsylvania's
new governor, Samuel W. Pennypacker, who gave a stirring speech, then
retired with his staff to the Washington Inn. Episcopal Bishop Rt. Rev.
O. W. Whitaker, presided at the ceremony to lay the cornerstone for
Burk's Washington Memorial Chapel. The bishop formally accepted a deed
from I. Heston Todd, and the Rev Dr C. Ellis Stevens of historic Christ
Church in Philadelphia spoke of Washington's earnest Christianity. The
bishop ceremonially laid the stone in honor of Washington, and all the
"patriot churchmen and churchwomen who served their God and country in
the struggle for Liberty." [23] Burk would
recall that later in the day he returned alone to the church's
foundations to empty the cornerstone of its memorial artifacts and
transfer them to a safe deposit box. He had no idea whether he would
have any more luck than James Guthrie in completing the edifice. [24]
"I planned to build a chapel; I hoped it might become
a shrine," Burk wrote. [25] A competition
was initiated to select an architect and a design, Warren P. Laird of
the University of Pennsylvania's architecture department judged the
entries and selected the work of Milton B. Medary Jr., [26] who had been born in Philadelphia in 1874
and had practiced largely in the area. Although not that widely known
today, his projects included Houston Hall at the University of
Pennsylvania, Bryn Mawr Hospital, Saint John's Church in Lower Merion,
and the gymnasium at Haverford College. Burk had instructed Medary to
plan not just a church but a memorial, a complex of several buildings
where a chapel dominated the group without overpowering the other
buildings. The chapel would be flanked on its western side by a cloister
composed of thirteen bays, each commemorating one of the thirteen
original colonies. On the opposite side, the chapel would be connected
by a porch to a library, a bell tower, and a hall to be used as a
meeting place for patriotic and historical associations.
Medary's plans called for an architectural style
known as "Perpendicular Gothic," deriving its inspiration from English
Gothic architecture of the fourteenth through early sixteenth centuries
and characterized by intricate stonework and an overall linear effect.
The choice of this style over the Colonial Revival look so popular in
domestic architecture at the turn of the century was puzzling. Medary is
remembered chiefly for his Gothic Revival buildings, but he was equally
at ease in Georgian styles. Burk could have had a replica of
Philadelphia's Christ Church, but he opted for a structure that looked
as if it belonged at Cambridge, and one he would also have to defend
from time to time. In a magazine article he commented: "Colonial
architecture was Georgian; the men at Valley Forge gave their lives in a
struggle against the tyranny of a Georgian King. Why mock their memory
by building a Georgian Chapel in their honor?" [27]
To house the congregation while the chapel was being
built, Burk arranged for construction of a humble barnboard edifice. An
early photograph shows it nestled among the trees and identifiable as a
church by its arched windows with diamond-shaped panes and the bell on
its roof. Burk's wife recalled how she could see squirrels cavorting
outside through the chinks in the walls, and that once the rector's
warden discovered a fox who had moved inside. [28]

Fig. 14. These two drawings show what
the Rev. Dr. W. Herbert Burk envisioned at Valley Forge. He planned
(upper) a complex of chapel, cloister, tower, meeting facilities, and
library dedicated to George Washington. West of this complex
(lower), he wanted a grand entrance to his churchyard dedicated
to "The Defenders of the Union" with an arch memorializing Abraham
Lincoln. Only the chapel and cloister were built according to this plan.
For years the chapel's rector lived in the west side of Defenders' Gate.
(From Historical and Topographical Guide to Valley Forge by W.
Herbert Burk [Philadelphia, 19101)
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