Yellowstone Historic Resource Study The History of the Construction of the Road System in Yellowstone National Park, 1872-1966

OLD FAITHFUL TO WEST THUMB

Army Engineering Officer William Craighill became the first person to survey the Old Faithful to West Thumb route. Not knowing the precise route that the road would take, Craighill had the crews working from each end. Before the road was completed, Craighill was replaced by a significant figure in the park's history, Lt. Hiram Chittenden. One of Chittenden's first assignments was to complete Craighill's project, the construction of the road from Old Faithful to West Thumb road. In 1891, Congress required that the route be built by the shortest practicable route. [80]

Thus, Chittenden's recommended route, which closely paralleled today's road, did not skirt Shoshone Lake as Captain Kingman proposed, but instead crossed Isa Lake and crossed the Continental Divide twice. According to a Yellowstone National Park historian, Aubrey Haines, Chittenden discovered that the crew on the Old Faithful end were following the old Norris trail. "That was Mr. Lamartine's idea of locating a road—to follow a trail with all its irregularities and excuses of gradients, regardless of what improvements could be made by something of a survey." Haines wrote that "Chittenden found it necessary to do the locating himself, working alternately at the two ends of the line with a hand level, a five foot staff, and the assistance of two laborers." [81] The road, completed during the summer of 1892, is one-third shorter than Kingman's proposed route via Shoshone Lake. [82]

In 1891 or 1892, a pole bents and stringers trestle bridge was constructed to span a ravine 1-1/2 miles from West Thumb and the Log Cabin Bridge across Herron Creek was built. The Log Cabin Bridge consisted of "two piers built up of logs resembling a log cabin, hence its name. There are also two wooden abutments. The spaces between the piers are spanned by stringers of white pine logs." [83]

The Grand Loop was finally completed in 1905. In 1908, a new, small bridge was built on the flat near DeLacy Creek and repairs were made to the bridges over Herron Creek and DeLacy Creek. [84] In 1909, Engineering Officer Wildurr Willing, made a thorough inspection of the bridges in the Park. He recommended that the trestle bridge, 1-1/2 miles from West Thumb, be replaced with a low truss, pin connected steel span, 60 feet in length, which would rest on concrete abutments. He called for the replacement of the Log Cabin Bridge with a 60 feet steel arch span with steel approaches at either end. Due to the fact that at one end of the bridge the road makes a sudden turn, that end had to be widened "so as to permit the four-horse teams to swing onto the bridge with ease." Another trestle bridge, 60 feet in length and constructed of pole bents and stringers, which spanned a ravine 1 mile west of West Thumb, was scheduled to be replaced by a 4 feet culvert pipe. [85] It was replaced in 1913 by a concrete culvert and earthfilled wooden crib. [86] In 1912 a road assessment was conducted to determine the suitability from an engineering standpoint, of the system for the introduction of automobile traffic in the Park. The Army Corps Officer Captain Knight, concluded that it would be better if the existing system were reconstructed than creating a separate system for motorized vehicles as some had suggested. Not much work was done on the Old Faithful to West Thumb Road but a 25 feet long bridge had been constructed in 1911 (exact location not known). [87] In 1915, three concrete culverts from 4 to 6 feet spans and been built along Spring Creek and the foundation for three more, plus several galvanized culverts had been put in along the road segment. These replaced older wooden ones. [88]

In 1926, a Park report suggested that the wooden bridge just south of Old Faithful be replaced with a concrete structure and that all of the Dry Creek culverts have their capacity increased. The report also called for the installation of metal culverts for that section of the road. [89]

Intensive reconnaissance surveys of this segment were completed by Worth Ross in 1927 and by A. C. Stinson in 1934 at the request of Superintendent Roger Toll. Toll urged for a speedy completion of the survey with expectations of going into construction the following year. Records for 1934 recall that this segment, which was, and is, an integral part of the Grand Loop system, was the "lowest type and poorest main road in the Park." [90]

The Bureau of Public Roads engineers felt that the road was far below the standards of the roads elsewhere in the Park. During 1934, the road was being traveled by approximately 250 cars daily, whereas the approximate daily use for other segments was 500 cars daily. These figures were based on records of previous years indicating 50,000 cars entering the park during the 100-day season. Officials felt that the low usage of this segment was no doubt due to the one-way traffic regulations and the poor condition of the road.

A $10,000 allotment for the 1934 survey was approved; the survey began July 5, 1934. The 15-man crew completed the staked lines survey October 22, 1934. Later, an additional $4,000 was approved for the survey project. The surveying crew found the crooked and narrow one lane road following, "most of the devious windings of the water courses, which it employs in the ascent to and descent from the two crossings of the Continental Divide. The road employs a great many sharp curves and a few sketches of excessive grades . . . ." [91] The road width varied from 12-15 feet to 18-20 feet. The wider width sections were found in the flatter country and also at the beginning of the ascent to Craig Pass which also has some of the rockiest sections of the route. Less rocky country, but very crooked alignment was found in the lower section of Dry Creek, while the upper section of Dry Creek was described as "rolling hilly country of less rugged nature." The descent road from the second Continental Divide crossing to West Thumb ranged from gentle to very steep slopes as one neared Yellowstone Lake. The survey team reported that the earlier work had been designed to incorporate a "fine view" of the Yellowstone Lake at one of the very sharp curves and further down the road, an overlook was built for a view of Duck Lake, a spring-fed lake lying between the bluffs and Yellowstone Lake.

At the conclusion of the survey, the Bureau of Public Roads made seven different proposals, some of which proposed similar alignments, but proposed different methods to overcome specific problem areas. The selected proposed route was a compromise between the National Park Service, who imposed strict guidelines concerning landscape, design, vistas, and the use of the segment for interpretation, and the Bureau of Public Roads whose aim was to find the most suitable ground for a modern highway. The 1934 survey report recommended some new road construction, some incorporation of the earlier road, and the use of a 24 inch culvert as an equalizer between the two lakes (Isa Lake) with the road running on the left side of the first lake and the right side of the second lake. It proposed parking spaces at Shoshone Point for views of Shoshone Lake and the Teton Mountains, at Mt. View where selected clearing would provide fine views of mountain peaks, and Yellowstone Lake. Other vistas considered on this segment were views of Flat Mountain at the south end of Yellowstone Lake, the Trident in the southeastern section of the park, and views of Yellowstone Lake. The report stated, ". . . This is a magnificent and worthwhile view (Yellowstone Lake) and should be preserved." The engineer admitted that another approach to West Thumb was more favorable and less expensive but "does not develop this view, and, although occupying better exposure, results in probably a little less satisfactory alignment." [92]

The proposed route shaved 2.7 miles off the earlier route. The length of the 1934 route was 17 miles, the route crossed the Firehole River and four creeks. The report recommended concrete box culverts for the creeks and remaining drainage cared for by corrugated, metal pipes or in high erosion areas, paved inverts for some of the pipes. The Park afforded one of the major concessioner, W. M. Nichols, president of Yellowstone Park Hotel Company, to comment on the proposed new alignment. He suggested that the old section through the Spring Creek Canyon, which he considered "one of the prettiest short trips on the Loop", might be also retained as a one-way east bound road. He stated that "As for our own buses, it would make a delightful trip, because, as you know, the buses have their tops down most of the time, and people can view scenery even in a narrow canyon like Spring Creek. [93]

Prior to the 1934 survey, the discussion of road width was an important topic and one of disagreement between the Bureau of Public Roads and the National Park Service. In a 1931 letter, the Bureau's district engineer discussed the construction width, shoulder-to-shoulder for all sections of the Grand Loop Road. The National Park Service reacted by telegram and called it "a matter of over-design." After several conversations and the Bureau's reason for the greater width, the 28-feet width was accepted and some projects proceeded using the 28-feet standard. In a February 12, 1934, letter from Superintendent Toll to the director of the National Park Service, Toll questioned whether a recognized agreement on the 28-feet width existed. [94] The previous 24-feet accepted standard for all park was raised to 28-feet for the Grand Loop Road and to 26-feet for the entrance roads.

By 1936 and 10 years after the initial road survey, 200 miles of the park road system had been improved to a drain and grade standard. Approximately 100 miles had been base course surfaced which consisted of crushed rock, spread the full width of the graded section to a compacted thickness carrying from 4 to 9 inches depending on subgrade conditions. Approximately 50 miles had a bituminous treated surface which was 20 feet wide with a 2-1/2 inch minimum compacted thickness with a seal coat and a wearing surface of stone chips. This treatment was the desired ultimate completed surfacing for all of the roads. Approximately 30 miles was under construction for bituminous surfacing; 19 major bridges including the new Golden Gate Viaduct were either completed or near completion. With approximately 60 percent of the project completed the total cost including 1936 work in progress was $7,000,000. However, the Old Faithful to West Thumb segment was not completed. [95]

Refinements of the details and revisions of the 1934 report and recommendations began almost immediately after the publication of the report. In fact, in the published report, the author acknowledges the cooperation of Superintendent Toll, but indicates that they had "less effective" cooperation with the landscape division of the National Park Service. [96] Perhaps this hint of "less effective" cooperation with the landscape division is a sign of the importance of the landscape division's input toward the completion of the park's road system to park standards. One of the requests from Sanford Hill, resident landscape architect, was that "the cleanup of old logs and down timber along the small creeks and particularly along Isa Lake be held to the minimum. We feel that the cleanup along these streams would tend to destroy a natural condition, and also destroy a natural check on erosion." [97]

Very early in the park road development history, the concern for visual quality, interpretive values, and the limited destruction to the landscape is evidenced in U. S. Army Corps of Engineer's Captain Kingman's standards and it was continued through the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s period. The landscape architects in the branch of plans and design of the National Park Service collaborated with the engineers of the Bureau of Public Roads during the survey, and throughout the planning and design stages of construction. The Park's resident landscape architect monitored the actual construction and supervised the development and construction of landscape features. Among the examples throughout the park of a landscape architects input are the roadside pullouts, trails, and the cut and fill slopes which were rounded and other special design features. "The rounding of tops of cut slopes and the flattening of cut and fill slopes in earth material" had long been standard practice for the National Park Service road design. In the Rocky Mountain West, the state highway departments adopted the same practice. Another landscape problem was the rehabilitation of abandoned roads, a problem which existed on the Old Faithful to West Thumb segment. The problem was addressed by reversing the construction procedures and "placing the materials from fills back into the cuts and attempting to reestablish the original contour and topography of the terrain." [98] In wooded areas, much tree planting was done and in barren areas, the old roads were covered with duff and top-soil to promote vegetative cover and prevent erosion.

Travel on this segment of the Grand Loop had increased to nearly 1,200 cars daily. The new alignment at a point just east of Isa Lake followed the old road, swinging north, crossing Herron Creek, and down to DeLacy Creek crossing on a high fill to Shoshone Point. A parking area was constructed at Shoshone Point to enable the visitors to experience the beautiful view of Shoshone Lake with the Teton Mountains as a backdrop on the horizon. From the parking area, the new road followed the older road until leaving the old alignment and headed to Dry Creek continuing in a southeasterly direction "along the west slopes of Dry Creek and DeLacy Creek basins to the rim of the Continental Divide then the descent into the West Thumb. As the road descends on a combination of tangent and very light curves, the mountains to the east become visible. As the road passes through a triple compound curve to the right, one could see Yellowstone Lake just before reaching West Thumb. This view was intended to take in not just Yellowstone Lake, but the lake's islands and the Absaroka Range. It was during this approximate time that the steel Herron Creek bridge was removed and culvert work was done at DeLacy Creek. Log guardrails were constructed on both segments. At one point on the road the landscape architects had a hand-placed embankment tree well put around a Lodge pole pine tree just on the edge of the road." [99]

The grading project continued from 1935 to 1938, with contractors under the supervision of the Public Roads Administration completing the job. Combined with the final costs on the surfacing which was completed in July, 1941, the total for the 17.083 miles was $359,949.75 or approximately $21,000 per mile. At its completion, the engineers recommended centerline striping over the entire 17 miles plus road with double-line striping for curves. The engineers felt that the maintenance work would be reduced if the gutters were paved and other roadside measures taken. The engineers felt that "No unusual or difficult engineering problems were encountered . . . ." [100]

In 1944 the road project was considered 67% finished with some miscellaneous minor work and the bituminous surfacing yet to be completed. By October 1947 the major construction project was completed. The road, in 1947, was considered the heaviest traveled in the park carrying between 3100 and 3800 vehicles per day during July and August.

By 1945, seeding of the roadsides had been completed, but the planting of trees, as specified in the contract, had not been done. The contract called for an unspecified number of 2-year old pine and fir seedling stock trees and additional number of trees up to 8 feet in height. The National Park Service felt that some natural reseeding of lodgepole pines had already begun and that any transplanted stock would have to come from within the Park. [101]

In 1947, work on completing the surfacing of the road continued. Using material from the following sites, McLaughlin, Incorporated of Great Falls, Montana, began work on June 15, 1947:

Plant mix aggregate — Stockpile at Dry Creek pit 4-1/2 miles east of project.
Cover aggregate — Stockpile at Old Faithful-originally produced from Basalt rock slide 2-1/2 miles east of West Yellowstone
Concrete aggregate — Sand from pit left of Sta. 342
Sec. 1-C2, Gravel from Yellowstone River at Livingston
Topsoil — Pit on old road 5-1/2 miles east of project.
Liquid Asphaltic — Rusky Oil Company refinery, Cody, Wyoming.
C.G.S.M. Pipe — Armco pipe from Hardesty Manufacturing Company, Denver, Colorado

When the project was completed the following materials were stockpiled for use by the maintenance crews

1850 tons plant mix — at Dry Creek pit
165 tons 2" base course — at Dry Creek pit
700 tons 3/4" cover aggregate — at Dry Creek pit
85 tons 3/8" cover aggregate — along road 6 miles east of Old Faithful, and at Old Faithful power house [102]

The new contractor used the same road camp, that was approximately at the midway point of the project, that the previous contractor, Peter Kiewit had used in the early 1940s. Part of this final work was the surfacing and finishing of the parking area on the east side of Isa Lake Bridge. The finished work included a boulder pavement guide marker between the traffic lane and the parking area. The guide marker at the Kepler Cascade parking area, completed at the same time, was a black, 1" chip material.

During the 1950s, 1,000 linear feet of log guardrail was replaced with guide posts. [103] The entire road section was rebuilt in the late 1980s.