Longs Peak

Watch a video on the Keyhole Route HERE

Learn more about climbing the Longs Peak Keyhole Route, including answers to Frequently Asked Questions.

Check the weather forecast for Long's Peak

 

Longs Peak from the Boulderfield, 6/23/24

NPS

Longs Peak Conditions Report
6/24/24

Summer conditions are now almost in full effect on Longs Peak, but the transition from winter is not quite complete. The trail is now entirely snow free all the way to the Boulderfield, with the exception of three short, easily crossed patches between Battle Mountain and Jim’s Grove. However, several summit routes, including Kiener’s and the Cables Route, still have sections of mandatory snow travel, requiring the proper equipment and technique. We are also transitioning into monsoon season, and afternoon thunderstorms will remain a real threat for the remainder of the summer season. Returning to treeline by noon is recommended to help mitigate exposure to lightning storms. Any venture beyond the trailhead should involve proper planning and preparedness.

Traction such as Microspikes, Yaktrax, or crampons and an ice axe are still highly recommended if navigating a route that requires snow travel. Warm clothes, waterproof layers, extra food and water, a headlamp, personal first aid kit, and a cell phone are all strongly recommended. If you are traveling alone, please tell a friend or family member your plans and take extra care with decision making. Even a minor accident while traveling alone on the mountain can quickly turn into a serious situation. As always, please be prepared to turn around when conditions exceed your abilities.

A current weather forecast for the Longs Peak high country can be found HERE

 

Keyhole Route Conditions

The Keyhole route is not quite in full summer conditions yet, but with some more complex route finding, can be climbed entirely on rock currently. The Ledges and Narrows are entirely snow free, but there are two sections where technical travel conditions remain. These sections are also melting fast with the warm temperatures. The first technical portion is the standard route up the center of the Trough, where snow remains (see photo). This snow can be firm in the morning, requiring traction and proper snow travel technique. However, climbers have been bypassing this snow on climber’s left and staying on rock the entire way, which involves some third- and fourth-class rock slabs.

The other section is the Homestretch, where daily melt-freeze cycles are leading to ice formation on the slabs, especially in the morning. These patches of ice may be hidden under thin layers of snow or obscured by shadows, creating slip and fall potential. By the afternoons, this ice has melted, but running water has taken its place, leading to very slick conditions in spots. Good, cautious route-finding is required to safely navigate through this stretch. Also, freshly exposed rocks tend to be loose and unstable, so please watch your step as you move about the mountain. Some form of traction is highly recommended but is no substitute for proper training and experience in negotiating icy terrain.

Remember your safety is in your own hands.

 

The Ledges, 6/23/24

NPS

 

The Trough, 6/23/24

NPS

 

The Narrows, 6/23/24

NPS

 

The Homestretch, 6/23/24

NPS

 

Chasm Crossing

The trail between Chasm Junction and Chasm Meadow traverses a steep snowfield known as Chasm Crossing, which has not yet fully melted out. The conditions of this snow slope vary greatly, from firm and icy in the morning to soft and slushy in the afternoon. A slip here will result in a slide on the steep slope below, which may be difficult to stop. Traction devices are recommended for this piece of terrain.

The rock slabs leading up to Chasm Lake also tend to hold snow and ice throughout the spring and can also involve wet rock. Please exercise caution on this terrain and consider trekking poles and/or traction devices for safe travel to Chasm Lake. Otherwise, with the exception of these two locations, the trail is entirely dry from the trailhead to Chasm Lake.

 

Chasm Crossing, 6/25/24

NPS