Glimpses of the National Parks and Monuments (continued)
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK
Yellowstone National Park lies principally in
Wyoming, but extends over the borders of Idaho and Montana. It is
probably the most celebrated of all the national parks because it
contains more and greater geysers than all the rest of the world
together, the only other great geyser fields in the world being those in
Iceland and New Zealand.
Geysers are, roughly speaking, water volcanoes. They
occur only at places where the internal heat of the earth approaches
close to the surface. Their action, for so many years unexplained and
even now regarded with wonder by so many, is simple. Water from the
surface trickling through cracks in the rocks, or water from
subterranean springs, collecting in the bottom of the geyser's crater
down among the strata of intense heat, becomes itself intensely heated
and gives off steam, which expands and forces upward the cooler water
that lies above it. It is then that the water at the surface of the
geyser begins to bubble and give off clouds of steam, the sign to the
watchers above that the geyser is about to play. When the water in the
bottom reaches so great an expansion under continued heat that the less
heated water above it can no longer weigh it down, it bursts upward with
great violence, rising many feet in the air and continuing to play until
practically all the water in the crater has been expelled. Spring water,
or the same water cooled after falling on the ground again, seeps
through to repeat this process. The length of time before the geyser
spouts again depends upon the time it takes for the water to seep back
and to become re-heated.
The celebrated Old Faithful Geyser plays with great
regularity at intervals of about sixty-three minutes. It has never
failed any visitor with an hour to spare and patience to wait that long.
Some of the largest geysers play at irregular intervals of days, weeks,
or months. Some very small ones play every few minutes. Many bubbling
hot springs which throw water a few feet into the air once or twice a
minute are in reality but small, imperfectly formed geysers.
Nearly the entire Yellowstone region, covering an
area of 3,426 square miles, so large that two or three of our smaller
states could be dropped into it with room to spare, is remarkable for
its hot-water phenomena. The geysers are confined to six basins known as
the Upper, Lower, Norris, Shoshone, Heart Lake, and West Thumb geyser
basins, lying in the middle-western and southern portions of the park,
but the other hot-water manifestations occur at widely separated
points. Marvelously colored hot springs, mud volcanoes, and other
phenomena are frequent. Yet the geysers and hot-water formations are by
no means the only wonders in the Yellowstone. Indeed, the entire park
is a wonderland. The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is renowned for its
marvelously variegated volcanic coloring, a dazzling spectacle that
fairly takes the visitor's breath with its beauty. Far below the rim and
the coloring, one sees the foaming Yellowstone River winding down the
canyon, following its plunge over a waterfall of 308 feet, nearly twice
the height of Niagara. From Inspiration Point one can stand on the rim
and gaze at two miles of kaleidoscopic coloring in the steep slopes that
drop more than a thousand feet down to the river. Here and there jagged
rocky needles rise perpendicularly for hundreds of feet like groups of
Gothic spires, and on the topmost pinnacles of some of them may be seen
the nests of the osprey, sometimes with young.
Every shade of almost every color can be found in
this daring and spectacular canyon: deepest orange, faintest yellow,
reds ranging from the softest pink to the most vivid crimson, blacks and
grays and pearls and glistening white. Greens are furnished by the dark
pines, or the lighter shades of the leafy shrubs, or the foaming emerald
of the plunging river, while above are the ever changing blues of the
Rocky Mountain sky, perforated by the fleeting, fleecy clouds. The
canyon is a spectacle which one gazes upon in silence. The favorite
practice of the rangers is to blindfold their friends who have not yet
seen the canyon, take them to Artist Point or Grand View, and then
suddenly remove the handkerchief from their eyes.
Yellowstone National Park is the greatest wild game
sanctuary in the country. No rifle has been fired at the animals of the
park, except to destroy certain predatory beasts, for more than thirty
years, and the creaturesparticularly the bears, the deer, and the
buffaloeshave become so tame that they can be seen at any time.
The animals, the birds, and the fish of the park have been described
already in detail in special chapters devoted to them.
One peculiarly fascinating glimpse of Yellowstone's
tempestuous past is afforded in the petrified forest of the Specimen
Ridge country, where many levels of upright petrified trunks may be
found alternating, like the layers of a cake, with the levels of
volcanic mud flows. That plainly shows that after the first forest grew
on the volcano's slope and was engulfed by a fresh run of mud enough
time elapsed for a second forest to grow upon that level, and that this
in turn was engulfed with a new mud flow to make the level for another
forest, and so on. There is one cliff two thousand feet high composed
wholly of these alternate levels of forests and the mud flows which
engulfed them.
The Yellowstone travel season is June, July, August,
and September. The park is practically snow-bound during the rest of the
year. There are five gateways to the Yellowstone for the Sagebrusher
arriving in his own motor: the Gardiner Gateway on the north; the West
Yellowstone and Gallatin gateways from which the motorist enters on the
west boundary; the Jackson Hole Gateway reached from Lander or Rock
Springs, Wyoming, or from Victor, Idaho; and the Cody Gateway through
which one enters the park at Sylvan Pass after passing the remarkable
Shoshone Canyon and Lake and the other wonders of the Buffalo Bill
country. Several transcontinental railroad lines serve the Yellowstone:
the Union Pacific via West Yellowstone, the Northern Pacific via
Gardiner and Gallatin gateways, the Milwaukee via Gallatin Gateway, the
Burlington via the Cody or eastern entrance, and the Chicago &
Northwestern Railway via Lander and the Jackson Hole Gateway on the
south. Railroad passengers travel through the park in motor stages,
requiring five days to make the circuit. They have the choice of
accommodations at the Yellowstone lodges, with wooden cabins for
sleeping quarters, or at the modern hotels, the hotels being slightly
more expensive than the lodges. In either case, the visitor's itinerary
is worked out by the railroads or the transportation company and his
reservations are made without bother on his part.
GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
In magnificent contrast to the volcanic Yellowstone
and its border of volcanic mountains, there rises to the south one of
the most abrupt and stupendous outcroppings of granite in the Western
Hemisphere, the Tetons. From the western shore of Jackson Lake the Teton
Mountains lift their spired peaks 7,000 feet in apparent perpendicular.
The master of them all is the Grand Teton, whose altitude is 13,747
feet. Many glaciers rest upon their slopes. At their feet nestles
Jackson Hole, a region rich in romance, once the favorite hiding place
of the robber and bad man, but now a center for the "dude wrangling"
industry. The Grand Teton National Park was established February 26,
1929.
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK
Yosemite National Park, 1,125 square miles in extent,
or about the size of the state of Rhode Island, lies directly east of
San Francisco on the west slope of the Sierra Nevada. It ranges in
altitude from 2,000 feet at its western entrance to 9,400 feet at its
eastern gateway, and in it are found peaks well over 13,000 feet high.
The famed Yosemite Valley is but a small part of this enormous area.
The irregular eastern boundary is the crest of the
Sierra, a rampart of tremendous granite peaks, spattered by snow fields
and glaciers, steep, domineering, impassable by road except at one
point, the lofty Tioga Pass at the head of spectacular Leevining Canyon.
Westward from this crestline of the Sierra flow almost countless
streams, many of which converge into two river systems, the Tuolumne
River, a turbulent, rushing fury of water plunging into Hetch Hetchy
Lake and on through a steep and almost inaccessible gorge to the plains
below, and the Merced River, placid, meandering in quiet valleys, then
roaring in great waterfalls and cataracts through canyons. It is the
Merced River which, aided by glaciers in the distant Ice Age, carved the
notable Yosemite Valley. Just above Yosemite Valley the Merced forms two
of Yosemite's most distinctive waterfalls, Nevada Falls, 594 feet high,
and Vernal Falls, a drop of 317 feet.
Yosemite Valley is well known the world over for its
great falls and cliffs. The Yosemite Falls plunge in three drops, the
upper and higher fall being 1,430 feet, equal to nine Niagaras piled one
on top of the other, the lower fall a plunge of 320 feet, while between
the two is a cascade in which the water drops an additional 600 feet.
The well-loved Bridal Veil Falls is 620 feet high, while Ribbon Falls,
highest of all, drops 1,612 feet sheer. Nowhere else in the world may
there be seen such spectacles of waterfalls as these.
Yet the waterfalls are not, by any means, Yosemite
Valley's only attractions. When the falls dry up, as is sometimes the
case in late summer when the snows have melted, the great granite cliffs
of the valley more than justify the visit. Half Dome rises in majestic
dignity 4,892 feet above the floor of the sylvan valley, El Capitan
3,604 feet, Sentinel Dome 4,157 feet, Clouds Rest 5,964 feet, Cathedral
Rocks 2,591 feet, Eagle Peak 3,712 feet, and dozens of other points soar
to similar heights. Off from the camps and hotels and roads of Yosemite
Valley wind numerous trails where the visitor can lose himself in the
solitude of the virgin forest.
Dominating Yosemite Valley and offering a commanding
panorama of literally scores of peaks of the Sierra Nevada is Glacier
Point, rising 3,200 feet above the floor of the valley. A hotel
and campsite on the rim offer the visitor accommodations. One's first
visit to Yosemite is a series of vast and breath-taking views of the
mountains in their splendor, and no scene is more amazing than the one
from Glacier Point. From the Overhanging Rock at this point the embers
of a great bonfire are pushed, tinkling over the cliff each night to
form the Firefall, one of Yosemite's most beautiful and interesting
customs.
To the south of Yosemite Valley is the Mariposa Grove
of Big Trees, the largest of the park's three groves of giant sequoias.
The Wawona Tree, so large that the automobile road passes through a
tunnel in its trunk, is said to be the most famous tree in the world.
Its picture is in the school geographies of many nations, and it is one
of the first objects that visitors want to see. The largest tree of the
grove is the Grizzly Giant, ninety-three feet in circumference, said by
naturalists to be almost five thousand years old. The Mariposa Grove
contains many other venerable giants. Among them are the Mark Twain
Tree, 314 feet tall, the Washington Tree, slightly smaller than the
Grizzly Giant, the Telescope Tree, living though hollowed by ancient
fires so that one can gaze through its trunk to the sky, and the Fallen
Monarch, so huge that a troop of cavalry found room to gather mounted on
its trunk.
The vast high-country area of Yosemite National Park,
the greater part of it from six to twelve thousand feet in elevation, is
not seen by most visitors. Through the acquisition and repair of the old
Tioga Road, a mining road crossing the heart of the Yosemite high
country and winding over the ridge of the Sierra from Yosemite to Lake
Tahoe, the traveler is offered two hundred miles of magnificent high
mountain scenery. A lodge in Tuolumne Meadows, with a store and motor
supply station, now serve the motorist, who finds in the Tioga Road an
easily accessible route to the fastnesses of the High Sierra. High
Sierra camps, operated to serve the hiker and the trail rider, are
connected by safe and well-marked trails. These camps are at Glen Aulin
on the Tuolumne River, Tenaya Lake on the Tioga Road, Tuolumne Meadows,
Boothe Lake, ten thousand feet above sea level, Merced Lake, headwaters
of the Merced River, and Little Yosemite, a halfway point to Yosemite
Valley. As a summer-time vacation region, rich in scenery and plentiful
in fishing opportunities, this Yosemite high-country trip is strongly
recommended.
Yosemite Valley is easily accessible the year around,
either by motor or by motor stage connecting with trains both at Merced
and El Portal. Two railroad lines serve Yosemite National Park, the
Southern Pacific at the Merced Gateway and at the Lake Tahoe end of the
Tioga Pass, and the Santa Fe at the Merced Gateway alone. From Merced
the train traveler can reach Yosemite via the Yosemite Valley Railroad
to El Portal and thence by motor stage, or by motor stage direct from
Merced. During the summer months motorists may enter Yosemite Valley via
the Wawona Road, passing near the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, or the
Big Oak Flat Road, traversing the Bret Harte country and passing through
the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees. These roads are closed by snow during
the winter months, but the Merced River route is open all year long.
In Yosemite Valley are two hotels, two lodges
(operated only in the summer months), and housekeeping camps. There are
excellent campsites for the motorists who prefer to camp out. They are
equipped with running water and toilet facilities. Stores and cafeterias
operate the year around in Yosemite Valley, and at Glacier Point and the
Mariposa Grove of Big Trees during the summer months.
GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK
The feature of Grand Canyon National Park is a
magnificent and breath taking canyon, highly colored, a mile deep,
thirteen miles wide, and many miles long, flanked on both sides by
spires, minarets, mesas, cliffs, in fantastic designsthe whimsical
carvings of the most tumultuous of the world's great rivers, the
Colorado. Pushing its way across the great plain between the Rocky
Mountains and the Gulf of California, the Colorado has carved its
channel deep into the plateau, which ranges from four to eight thousand
feet in elevation.
The Grand Canyon of Arizona, or of the Colorado, as
it is more generally called, is the world's supreme example of erosion.
Happy it is that the Canyon is a thing of rare beauty as well as a
geological wonder. Its slopes are tinted many colors, the tones of which
change chameleon-like with the movement of the sun and the clouds. The
wanderer upon the rim looks down upon miles and miles of pyramids and
minarets carved from painted depths. Miles away, and a mile below, he
sees the tiny silver thread which he knows is the giant in strength, the
Colorado River.
There are two trails down the cliffs to the river
from the South Rim and they can be negotiated safely on foot or on
horse. They connect over a long suspension bridge with trails leading to
the North Rim, which is a thousand feet higher. Unless he goes by trail
from rim to rim the traveler must take a long train or motor trip, going
hundreds of miles to reach a point thirteen miles away as the crow
flies. These trail trips of Grand Canyon Park are memorable adventures,
and every visitor who can do so should take one or more of them.
Hundreds of mules are used daily down the Bright Angel or Kaibab trails
to the Colorado River, across a long suspension bridge, and up to the
opposite rim.
The South Rim is most easily reached by motor or via
the Santa Fe Railroad, which reaches the site of the El Tovar Hotel,
situated right on the rim of the Canyon. Here are seen in colorful
costumes Hopi, Navaho, and Havasupai Indians displaying their tempting
waresbaskets, bowls, bead work, and other articles. Stores,
campsites, and the headquarters for the park are located here, in
addition to the picturesque El Tovar Hotel. The Phantom Ranch, a unique
camp operated in the Canyon near the river for the convenience of
visitors, is most easily reached by trail from the South Rima
great adventure to the visitor.
The North Rim is accessible by motor or via a
motor-stage line connecting with the Union Pacific system terminal at
Cedar City, Utah. A distinctive modern lodge, operated by the railroad,
is perched high on the North Rim, offering a marvelous vista. The visit
to the North Rim is often made in conjunction with trips to Zion and
Bryce National parks, described else where and served by the same
railroad connections. En route to the North Rim, travelers pass through
the Kaibab Forest, the largest virgin forest in the United States, on a
plateau 7,500 to 9,300 feet above sea level. Vast herds of deer roam
this area. In recent years they have become so numerous that the problem
of feeding them in the snowy season is a serious one.
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
Glacier National Park is so named because in the
hollow of its rugged mountain tops lie more than sixty small glaciers,
the remainders of the ancient monsters which once covered all but the
highest mountain peaks of this park. It is located in northwestern
Montana right up against the Canadian boundary. It is a richly colored
land of ruggedly modeled mountains, enormous, twisting glacier-scooped
valleys, precipices thousands of feet high, innumerable rushing streams,
and hundreds of lakes of rare beauty. Though all the other parks possess
these general features in addition to others which differentiate them
each from the other, Glacier Park possesses them in such unusual
abundance and happy combination that it is an area of marked
individuality. There is no other scenic region with which to compare
it, except the less colorful, colder, and less accessible Canadian
Rockies. In richness of beauty it stands alone.
The fantastic carving of Glacier National Park was
the work of the glaciers in the soft rock. From the continental divide
descend nineteen principal valleys, seven on the east side and twelve on
the west, each of them with many smaller tributary valleys each with its
streams, lakes, and glaciers. Many of them have never been explored,
unless perchance they were entered by the Indians on their hunting
expeditions. There are 250 known lakes in the park, and probably many
smaller ones in the wilderness that have never yet been seen.
Bordering on the park is the reservation of the
Blackfoot Indians. The eastern half of Glacier National Park was once
included in the Blackfoot reservation, and was purchased from them by
the government. The Blackfeet, perhaps the finest and most picturesque
tribe of Indians in the country today, are seen in the park in their
striking costumes and their gaily colored tepees. They are probably the
outstanding attraction of the park to many visitors. Over eight hundred
saddle horses and pack animals are used in Glacier National Park, as it
can be seen adequately only by trips over the mountain trails. Glacier
is pre-eminently the trail park of the system, and it is the settled
policy of the government not to gridiron it with roads.
There are several excellent hotels and chalets for
the accommodation of visitors to the park, which is reached most
directly by the Great Northern Railroad. Motorists will find good roads
leading to the park from both the east and the west, and within the park
they will have available good campsites as well as the hotels and
lodges.
MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK
Mount Rainier, towering 14,408 feet above Puget
Sound, is the greatest of a group of mountains, remnants of extinct
volcanoes, that once played an important part in building the continent
out of the ancient seas. These mountains, counting them from north to
south, included Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Adams, Mount St.
Helens, Mount Hood, Mount Shasta, and Lassen Peak. In the distant past,
when the continent was in the making, these great volcanoes belched
forth millions of tons of lava and ashes, forming not only much of the
Cascade Range but very probably a large part of the Pacific Northwest.
Today, with their fires quenched, they are great ice-covered peaks,
landmarks dominating the forests, plains, and cities of the region.
Mount Rainier can be seen for 150 miles in clear weather. It rises more
than two miles above the mountains at its base, unique, alone, unchallenged,
comparable only to Fujiyama, Japan's great volcanic peak. Mount
Rainier once rose to a sharp peak, according to geologists, attaining a
height then of some sixteen thousand feet; but some ancient catastrophe
caused this peak to be blown or broken off.
The national park of which Mount Rainier is the
center and the main feature is about eighteen miles square. It includes
some of the finest forest stands of the Northwest, beautiful mountain
meadows, waterfalls, and is a great sanctuary for wild game. Paradise
Valley, lying between the Paradise and Nisqually glaciers, is the great
gathering place for both summer and winter sports, winter sports being
enjoyed on the mountain slopes during the summer time as well. From
this valley a number of trails lead to the glaciers, ice caves, and
forests, and to other valleys. Here one may study the action of the
glaciers, see them move slowly, a few inches per day, toward their
destination. Here one may find perhaps the greatest collection of alpine
flowers in any of the national parks, magic carpets of blossoms, miles
in extent, vivid in color, some of them so impatient for the sunshine
that they push their heads through the melting snows.
Mount Rainier National Park is reached by the
Milwaukee Railroad to Ashford, or by motor stage from both Tacoma and
Seattle, a half-day ride from either city. Hotels are operated the year
around at Longmire Springs and in summer at Paradise Valley, near the
snowline. Motorists will find a highway leading from Seattle and Tacoma
to Longmire Springs and Paradise Valley, and good roads extending to the
two northern corners of the park as well. Campsites are awaiting them
along these roads, but hotels and lodges are operated at present only en
route to Paradise Valley. Stores and gasoline supply stations offer
commodities at reasonable prices.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
Rocky Mountain National Park is unique for its record
of glacial action. Situated at the tiptop of the Rockies, this park
offers unusual opportunities to see easily the struggles of Nature and
the elements at timberline, about 11,000 feet above sea level. While
other parks have higher peaks within their boundaries, Rocky Mountain
Park has the highest average elevation. The little valley of Estes Park,
where is located the group of summer hotels, is at 8,000 feet elevation,
twice as high as Yosemite Valley. Above this valley the mountains rise
precipitously for more than a mile, reaching up to Longs Peak,
dominating them all, 14,255 feet above sea level. Several other peaks
are almost as high as Longs.
The valleys on both sides of the range of which these
peaks are a part are dotted with lovely glades clothed in a profusion of
wild flowers and watered by streams flowing down from the snows and the
glaciers. Forests of pine and aspen grow in the valleys. Timberline in
Rocky Mountain Park is particularly interesting. The fierce, icy winds
make it impossible for trees to grow tall. The spruces lie flat on the
ground like vines, and finally give place to low birches, which give
place in turn to small pine growths, succeeded finally by tough,
straggling grasses, hardy mosses, and tiny alpine flowers. Grass grows
in sheltered spots even on the highest peaks, a fortunate circumstance
for the great horned mountain sheep which seek these high places. Even
at the highest altitudes, gorgeously colored wild flowers grow in
profusion in the sheltered gorges.
Above timberline, the bare mountain masses rise from
one to three thousand feet, often in sheer cliffs. Covered with snow in
fall, winter, and spring, and plentifully spattered with snow all summer
long, the great granite masses at the top of the Rockies are beautiful
indeed. At sunrise and at sunset they are rose-colored, during fair
sunny days they are gray and mauve and blue, in storms they shove their
heads into the clouds, often to emerge snow-crowned. Frequently, the
visitor sees a thunderstorm born on Longs Peak. Out of the blue sky, a
slight mist will gather, becoming a cloud, growing rapidly, swelling,
sweeping the sky until, in fifteen minutes, it is thundering and raining
down into the valley below. Half an hour more and it is sunshine
again.
The easy accessibility of these mountain tops makes
Rocky Mountain Park a popular one. The park is reached by a seventy-mile
rail and motor trip, or by motor only, from Denver, Colorado. At the
little village of Estes Park, just outside the park on the east, and at
Grand Lake on the west are to be found hotels, lodges, camps, stores,
and other accommodations for the traveler, whether he comes by train or
by motor. The summer season is from June 15 to October 1, but the park
is open all the year, the balance of the time for those seeking winter
sports.
SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK
Located near the southern end of the Sierra Nevada is
Sequoia National Park, home of the largest group of giant sequoias in
the world. These great trees once were common to much of North America.
They were saved from extinction by the shelter offered by the pockets
and the protected slopes of the Sierra. Near Sequoia National Park, and
under the same direction, is General Grant National Park, a smaller
area, but the site of one of the finest of the sequoia groves.
The General Sherman Tree, with a diameter of 36.5
feet and a height of 280 feet, is counted as the largest and oldest
living thing on earth. It is possibly more than 5,000 years of age.
Around it are scores of other venerable sequoias, almost as large and as
old, while in General Grant Park is found the General Grant Tree, 35
feet in diameter and 264 feet high. It, too, was standing probably when
the pyramids of Egypt were being constructed, more than 2,000 years
before the birth of Christ.
There are sequoia trees in several localities in the
Sierra Nevada, notably in Yosemite National Park with three distinct
groves; but the greatest stand of them all is the Giant Forest, the
largest group in Sequoia Park. In this park, the sequoias are on the
increase. The great giants are surrounded by their offspring, mere
striplings one or two thousand years old, and still younger ones ranging
in age down to the tiny trees a year or two old, of which there are now
countless thousands. The sequoias are the glory, as they were the cause,
of the Sequoia and General Grant National parks. Scattered here and
there over a large area, they cluster in thirteen separate groves.
The sequoias are by no means the only attractions of
Sequoia National Park. The park is generously endowed with great cliffs,
mountains, other forests, streams, waterfalls, and other attractions
which are dwarfed by the glory of the Big Trees. Within the boundaries
of Sequoia National Park is a great stretch of High Sierra country,
including Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the United States, 14,496
feet high. Trails from the park lead to Tehipite Valley in the middle
fork of the Kings River, considered by many another Yosemite, and to the
main Kings River Canyon, a region of stupendous ruggedness and of wild
beauty, comparable only to Yosemite.
Sequoia and General Grant National parks are easily
reached by motorists from the San Joaquin Valley State Highway. Both
parks are accessible the year around. Travelers arriving by train are
met by motor stages at Exeter, California, on the Southern Pacific and
Santa Fe railroads. Accommodations at Sequoia Park include both a lodge
and housekeeping camps, while campsites for those who wish to camp out
await the Sagebrusher at both Sequoia and General Grant.
CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK
In the heart of the Cascade Mountains of Oregon there
lies, jewel-like in a setting of lava, a lake of unbelievable blue. The
visitor who comes upon it suddenly stands silent with emotion, overcome
by its extraordinary beauty and by a strange sense of mystery which
increases rather than decreases with familiarity. This is Crater Lake.
Once, where this lake nestles in a cavity on the mountain top, there
stood a great volcano, Mount Mazama, perhaps the highest peak in the
region. Certainly it was as high as Mount Shasta. That was ages ago.
Human eyes never saw Mount Mazama. Long before the coming of man to this
continent, some great cataclysm caused the peak of Mount Mazama to crash
inward and the mountain disappeared as if swallowed up by itself. In its
place was left a crater-like abyss, the awful depth of which no man can
guess.
The volcano was not quenched. It burst out anew
through the collapsed lava in three places, forming new and smaller
cones. These cones are the islands now seen in Crater Lake, which
gradually grew as the volcano died down, and as the snows piled on the
mountain top and melted into the crater with no outlet. There is no
inlet nor outlet, curiously enough, for Crater Lake, yet the water is
pure and fresh. It is supposed that the water escapes by underground
channels to reappear in the Klamath River, some miles away.
Geologists find Crater Lake of special interest
because of the way Nature made it. Many volcanoes have had their peaks
blown off. Mount Rainier was one of these. But no other in the United
States has fallen into itself as did Mount Mazama. The evidence of this
curious and titanic event is quite conclusive, and the visitor to the
park can see it for himself. The slopes of the mountain were made of
lava that ran, hot and fluid, from a crater many thousands of feet
higher. The pitch of these outward slopes enables the scientist to tell
with reasonable accuracy the probable height of the volcano when the
catastrophe took place.
Crater Lake National Park is reached by train on the
Southern Pacific Railroad lines into Medford and Klamath Falls, at which
stops motor stages make the short trip to the park. A hotel on the rim
of the lake offers accommodations. For the motorist, the visit to the
park is a short side trip from the Pacific and Dalles-California
highways. He will find, in addition to the hotel, campsites, stores,
filling stations. The park is open to travel from late June or July 1
for as long as snow does not block the roads, generally until
October.
MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK
The Mesa Verde National Park was created to preserve
the ruins of the highest form of ancient American civilization found in
the United States, that of a nation of Indians resembling the modern
Pueblos in characteristics, whose homes still stand on the cliffs that
line the Mancos River in southern Colorado. The Indians who lived here
have disappeared entirely. No trace of their fate has been found by
archaeologists. Their civilization, as indicated by the relics they
left and by their cliff cities, was comparable in many ways to that of
the Aztecs in Mexico and the Incas of Peru.
The Mesa Verde is fifteen miles long and eight miles
wide. The Mancos River flows along it, its banks forming narrow plains
above which rise walls of rock three to five hundred feet above the
river. In these walls are small canyons in which the ancient cliff
dwellers built their homes, after the manner of modern tenements.
Apparently they sought safety from their enemies. It is thought that
their cliff cities were built about 1300 A.D.
There are many ruins in Mesa Verde yet unexplored,
awaiting the pioneer who can experience anew the thrill of Richard and
Alfred Wetherell, who, while hunting in 1888, discovered, explored, and
named the Cliff Palace, one of the important ruins of the park. That is
an unfortunate name, for it is not the ruin of a palace at all, but the
remains of a village with two hundred rooms for family living and
twenty-two sacred rooms for worship. The Spruce Tree House, so called
because of a great spruce growing out of the remains, is a village that
sheltered 350 inhabitants, high in the cliff.
Antiquities are not the only attractions of Mesa
Verde National Park. Its natural beauties are many. In winter the park
is inaccessible, due to the heavy fall of snow; in the autumn the region
is dry and parched; but in June and July, when the rains come, the
grasses grow and the flowers are in full bloom. Then it is a beautiful
country.
Mesa Verde National Park is reached by rail travelers
via the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad from Mancos or Durango
stations, or via the Santa Fe Railroad from Gallup, New Mexico. Stage
lines connect between these stations and the park. At least three days
should be allowed for the side trip, including the time required to
travel by stage to the park. Motorists will find roads leading to the
park in good condition during the summer months from Denver and Pueblo,
Colorado, from Gallup, New Mexico, or from Utah points. Accommodations
in the park include tents and cabins at Spruce Tree Camp near the ruins
of the Spruce Tree House. Campers will find excellent campsites
available.
ZION AND BRYCE NATIONAL PARKS
Zion National Park was formed to preserve the vividly
colored and fantastically carved sandstone cliffs bordering the deep
valley of the Mukuntuweap River, which has carved three thousand feet
into the mountains north of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado and south
of the Great Salt Lake. The canyon was given the name of Zion by the
Mormons who discovered it.
This chasm is similar in size and shape to Yosemite
Valley, yet it resembles in its vivid coloring the Grand Canyon of the
Colorado. Extraordinary as are the sandstone carvings, it is the
coloring that is most amazing. The gorgeous red of the Vermillion Cliffs
is the prevailing tint. For two-thirds of their height these marvelous
walls and temples are painted gorgeous reds. Then, above the reds, they
rise in startling white. Sometimes the white is surmounted by a cap of
vivid red, remains of another red stratum which once overlay all. Other
colors are many and brilliant.
This gorgeously colored valley is reached by a
seventy-mile motor trip from Cedar City, Utah, which is on the Union
Pacific Railroad. Many travelers take a round trip which includes the
visit to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and to Bryce Canyon, a new
national park, smaller than Zion but brilliantly colored and
fantastically carved. Bryce and Zion are totally different in every
respect. Motorists find both parks easily accessible over roads through
southwestern Utah. At both Zion and Bryce canyons are lodges, campsites,
and stores offering the usual accommodations found in the parks. A third
beautiful canyon, more accurately described as an amphitheater, lying
between Bryce and Zion canyons, is Cedar Breaks, which is also developed
with adequate tourist accommodations.
LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK
In Lassen Volcanic National Park is preserved for
public enjoyment the only aggressive and active volcano within the
borders of the United States. Here may be studied the phenomena of
volcanic activity which played so important a part in the formation of
this continent. Lassen Peak is the most southerly of the chain of
volcanoes which once dominated the Pacific Northwest. It is located in
northern California near the Nevada boundary.
From time to time this great peak resumes its
rumbling and belches forth smoke and ashes and pours out rivers of lava
and hot mud, sweeping down over the forests that cloak its slopes. Its
first recent explosion was in May of 1914. Previously, it had been
quiescent for two hundred years. Since 1914 it has from time to time
threatened eruption, to the great interest of travelers in this
area.
In addition to the volcano, this national park, one
of the newest and least developed and known, has other charms. It is a
region of fine forests, streams, lakes, and other mountain scenery, the
heart of a popular vacation area. One of its attractions is a boiling
lake with a circumference of approximately two thousand feet. Within the
park area are numerous fissures from which issue gases, steam, and
rumblings, similar to those of Yellowstone.
Lassen Volcanic Park may be reached by the Southern
Pacific Railroad from the west or by the Western Pacific from the south.
By automobile it is reached from Red Bluff, California, on the Pacific
Highway, or Reno, Nevada, on the Lincoln Highway. Hotel accommodations
are available at points near the park, and camping is permitted within
the park.
MOUNT McKINLEY NATIONAL PARK
The highest mountain in North America, Mount
McKinley, forms the basis for creation of Mount McKinley National Park
in Alaska. This enormous peak rises 20,300 feet, nearly four miles,
above sea level. It is snow capped the year around and down its slopes
push many great glaciers, some of them among the largest in the world.
At its base are forests, meadows, and valleys, above which the mountain
towers for 17,000 feet, a magnificent spectacle. A view of this monster
two-headed mountain is one of the reasons for a visit to Alaska.
In addition to Mount McKinley, the park is a great
wild game retreat, being the natural home of the caribou, the grizzly,
and Alaskan brown bears, fiercest and largest of the bruins, moose, the
beautiful white Dall sheep, a species of bighorn, and numerous other
animals, as well as many varieties of bird life.
Mount McKinley is reached by train which connects
with boats to Alaska at Cordova and Seward. As yet, it is a great
undeveloped wilderness, but a road is being pushed farther each year
into its interior fastnesses and seven camps have been established
within the boundaries. From these, saddle-horse trips are possible.
HAWAII NATIONAL PARK
Within Hawaii National Park are found three volcanoes
of world renown: Haleakala on the island of Maui, and Mauna Loa and
Kilauea on the island of Hawaii. Haleakala has been inactive for
centuries, but its summit is a crater of size and beauty that makes it
one of the world's show places. This crater is eight miles long and
three miles wide. Its surrounding walls rise two thousand feet. Its
broad, rolling, rainless, sandy floor is decorated with plants famous
under the name of silver swords, yucca-like shrubs three to four feet
high, whose drooping leaves gleam like polished stilettos. From this
great reddish floor, within the lava rim, rise thirteen volcanic cones
to a height of several hundred feet. The crater was left in this state
intact by reason of the fact that side vents drained the fires below.
Hence, Haleakala is one volcano that did not destroy its crater.
Mauna Loa is known as the greatest of living
volcanoes. Kilauea is celebrated for its lake of fire. These two
volcanoes are on the same mountain range. Manna Loa is the younger and
stronger, and it has grown so high that it has almost absorbed Kilauea.
Mauna Loa soars 13,675 feet above the not far distant sea. It is active
every five or ten years. Its slopes are covered with forests of native
mahogany or koa and tangles of giant tree ferns.
The most spectacular exhibit of Hawaii National Park
is Kilauea's Lake of Fire. In the middle of a plateau 4,000 feet high,
drops a pit with vertical sides in which Kilauea boils its lava.
Occasionally lava geysers spout 150 feet in the air. At other times the
lake simply boils, a seething mass of fire, which can be photographed on
the darkest night. Sometimes the lava disappears entirely for several
years at a stretch.
These volcanoes are reached by motor from the ships
that ply to Hilo, on the island of Hawaii. Visitors can approach
surprisingly near the Lake of Fire. On the rim of Kilauea is a hotel
known as the Volcano House. Other accommodations on the order of the
lodges of other parks are also available at reasonable rates.
Throughout this park are found wonderful examples of
rich tropical plant growth, giant tree ferns as high as houses, mahogany
forests, numerous interesting trees found nowhere outside the tropics,
and an abundance of wild flowers. The forests and wild flower gardens
are made the more colorful by the gaily colored birds of the Hawaiian
Islands.
ACADIA NATIONAL PARK
Acadia National Park occupies a considerable portion
of the Mount Desert Island, off the Maine Coast at the mouth of
Penobscot Bay. It is a region of rugged granite mountains, bays,
promontories, woods, and lakes, renowned for its exquisite beauty since
the date of its discovery in 1604 by the French navigator, Champlain. It
figured prominently in the early colonization activities of the French,
but was not settled until the English obtained possession of Canada.
Acadia Park is unique in several ways. Its territory
for a century was in private hands. It has been ceded to the government
piece by piece, and the park is being increased in size from time to
time by new contributions of land. Within the modest boundaries of the
park there is a wonderful overlapping of species of plant life, from
both the north and the south along the Atlantic Coast. It is also a wild
life sanctuary of importance.
Acadia Park is the most easterly of the national
parks and is reached by the Maine Central Railroad or by motor from Bar
Harbor, Maine, where the superintendent of the park maintains his
office. Good roads of great scenic beauty traverse the park. Motor-boat
trips along the shoreline of the island are an additional
attraction.
HOT SPRINGS NATIONAL PARK
Oldest of all the national parks is Hot Springs,
located in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas. Even before the coming of
the white man this region was known for the healing qualities of its
waters, which flowed in warm springs, much appreciated by the Indians.
As early as 1832 the federal government, to make these waters available
to all persons at nominal cost, established this national park. The area
comprises 912 acres, including in all 46 hot springs.
A handsome and prosperous city has grown up at the
site of the springs. There are nine bathhouses on the government
reservation, and ten more in the city, supplied with water from the park
springs. The government analysis of the waters shows them to be of
mineral qualities comparable to the famous waters of Spa, in Europe.
This interesting and useful park is reached via the
Rock Island and Missouri Pacific lines or by automobile over some of the
best highways in the South. Hot Springs has several famous resort hotels
which are operated on high standards of service.
PLATT NATIONAL PARK
Platt National Park was created to preserve sulphur
and other beneficent springs, both hot and cold, which gush from an area
of one and one-half square miles in southern Oklahoma.
WIND CAVE NATIONAL PARK
Wind Cave National Park includes a remarkable
limestone cavern in the Black Hills of southwestern South Dakota. The
park has an area of sixteen square miles.
SULLYS HILL NATIONAL PARK
Sullys Hill National Park in North Dakota is a
picturesque forested region bordering on a lake. It is a wild animal
preserve and has historic associations.
MUIR WOODS NATIONAL MONUMENT
Named in honor of John Muir, explorer, naturalist,
and writer, Muir Woods National Monument was established by a
presidential proclamation on January 9, 1908. The monument preserves a
remarkable grove of redwoods nestling on the south slope of Mount
Tamalpais, in a secluded valley less than two hours' ride from San
Francisco. It comprises 128 acres and was the gift of the Honorable
William Kent and his wife, Elizabeth Thatcher Kent, and has been
described as "one of the most friendly, easily approachable woods,
centuries old, permanently preserved for the benefit and enjoyment of
the people."
These tall and noble trees narrowly escaped being cut
into shingles and railroad ties just before they were purchased by Mr.
Kent in 1905. Even then they were not safe. Commercial interests sought
to declare the valley in which they were located condemned to make a
reservoir site, and only the timely proclamation of the Muir Woods
National Monument by President Roosevelt saved them. The President, a
great conservationist, wished to name the grove Kent Monument. The
correspondence between him and Congressman Kent is indicative of the
ideals, not only of the donor but of the National Park Service as well.
The President wrote:
"My DEAR MR. KENT: I thank you most heartily for this
singularly generous and public-spirited action on your part. All
Americans who prize the natural beauties of the country and wish to see
them preserved and undamaged, and especially those who realize the
literally unique value of the groves of giant trees, must feel that you
have conferred a great and lasting benefit upon the whole country.
"I have a very great admiration for John Muir; but
after all, my dear sir, this is your gift. No other land than that which
you give is included in this tract of nearly 300 acres, and I should
greatly like to name the monument the Kent Monument, if you will permit
it.
"Sincerely yours,
"THEODORE ROOSEVELT"
"To the President, Washington
"My DEAR MR. PRESIDENT: I thank you from the bottom
of my heart for your message of appreciation and hope and believe that
it will strengthen me to go on in an attempt to save more of the
precious and vanishing glories of Nature for a people too slow of
perception.
"Your kind suggestion of a change in name is not one
that I can accept. So many millions of better people have died forgotten
that to stencil one's own name on a benefaction seems to carry with it
an implication of mundane immortality as being somewhat purchasable.
"I have five good, husky boys that I am trying to
bring up to a knowledge of democracy and to a realizing sense of the
rights of 'the other fellow,' doctrines which you, sir, taught with more
vigor and effect than any other man in my time. If these boys cannot
keep the name of Kent alive, I am willing it should be forgotten.
"I have this day sent you by mail a few photographs
of Muir Woods, and trust that you will believe, before you see the real
thing (which I hope will be soon), that our nation has acquired
something worth while.
"Yours truly,
"WILLIAM KENT"
"THE WHITE HOUSE, WASHINGTON
"My DEAR MR. KENT: By George! You are right. It is
enough to do the deed and not to desire, as you say, to 'stencil one's
own name on the benefaction.'
"Good for you, and for the five boys who are to keep
the name of Kent alive! I have four who I hope will do the same thing by
the name of Roosevelt. Those are awfully good photos.
"Sincerely yours,
"THEODORE ROOSEVELT"
PINNACLES NATIONAL MONUMENT
The spires, domes, caves, and subterranean passages
of this extraordinary area in California, about one hundred miles south
of San Francisco, are awe inspiring and colorful. The spire-like forms
which rise six hundred to a thousand feet above the floor of the canyons
give the monument its name. In addition to its geological interest, the
monument, comprising twenty-three hundred acres, is a wild life
sanctuary. In it are found a species of black-tail deer, and it is one
of the last homes of that now almost extinct species, the condor, the
largest bird found on the continent.
Pinnacles Monument is easily reached by motor from
Hollister or Soledad on the Pacific Highway, and good campsites are
available for the camper, particularly in Bear Gulch where there is a
fine stream. By rail, it is reached from Hollister on the Southern
Pacific coast line.
CASA GRANDE MONUMENT
Casa Grande National Monument, in the heart of
Arizona about half way between Tucson and Phoenix, preserves the "Great
House," a prehistoric ruin of the pueblo type. These ruins were
discovered in 1694 by Father Kino, the Jesuit priest and the founder of
Tumacacori Mission. In addition to the Great House there are ruins of a
considerable city built by the ancient Americans in the heart of the
desert. Students think that these people, who attained a fair degree of
civilization, left the Casa Grande ruins at least seven hundred years
ago, and that their civilization may have flourished twelve hundred
years, as indicated by the improvements made in their masonry. It is
possible that their city antedated Christianity.
Casa Grande is one of the most easily seen of the old
pueblo ruins. It is near the Old Spanish Trail and the Bankhead Highway
between Phoenix and Tucson, not far from the town of Florence. It can
also be reached from the Casa Grande station of the Southern Pacific
Railroad. Winter and springtime are the most desirable times to visit
Casa Grande because of the heat on the desert at other times of the
year. Motorists who enjoy camping are urged to pitch their camps in the
desert, under the open skies, a rare and enjoyable experience on the
Arizona desert.
TUMACACORI MISSION
Tumacacori Mission, located forty-nine miles south of
Tucson, Arizona, on the road to Nogales, was constructed by the Papago
Indians about 1691 under the direction of the Jesuit padre, Eusebio
Francisco Kino. It antedated the California missions by a century.
After prospering for almost 150 years, first under the Jesuits and later
under the Franciscans, the mission was attacked by the Apache Indians
who drove the padres away, disbanded the Papago Indians, and looted the
mission. It was in a state of decay when discovered by the American
explorers, following acquisition of the territory from Mexico in 1850.
The mission is being reconstructed along its original lines as rapidly
as funds will permit. It is unique among the missions in that it is
built of burned brick. It is one of the most interesting of the chain of
missions in the Southwest, and historically important because of its
great age. During one of the Indian uprisings, the famous bells of the
mission were buried in the sands of the desert. They are still lost,
though thousands of visitors have joined in the hunt for them.
Tumacacori is near the Tucson-Nogales Highway, and is
reached from Nogales on a branch line, or from Tucson on the main line
of the Southern Pacific Railroad.
PETRIFIED FORESTS OF ARIZONA
The Petrified Forests of Arizona extend over a wide
area. In them are found fossil remains of great trees which fell
thousands of years ago. Erosion has brought them to the surface of the
soil again, after being buried for ages. An area of one hundred square
miles, containing three distinct petrified forests, has been set aside
in this monument. The most remarkable of these forests from the
visitor's point of view is the Rainbow Forest, where the silica which
replaced the original grain of the trees has assumed many and brilliant
colors. The ground about these logs is literally paved with chips of
agate, onyx, carnelian, and jasper.
A visit to the Petrified Forest National Monument is
one of the real experiences of a trip through the Southwest, and one
that travelers in the region should not overlook. The monument is
reached by motor from Holbrook, Arizona, on the National Old Trails
Road, while railroad travelers approach the area from either Adamana or
Holbrook on the Santa Fe Railroad.
MONTEZUMA CASTLE
Situated in a cavity in the face of a vertical cliff
eighty feet above the plain at its base, Montezuma Castle is a most
remarkable cliff dwelling. It takes three enormous ladders to reach the
lower entrance to this fortress home, and the pueblo builders who lived
here in ancient times undoubtedly chose the site for security. The
prodigious amount of work necessary to construct this great house on the
cliff and to transport supplies to it bespeak the untiring energy of
these people. The Castle accommodated about three hundred people. In it
have been found pottery of a fair character and implements of warfare,
hunting, and agriculture. Below, along Beaver Creek at the foot of the
cliff, were the communal farms.
Montezuma Castle is in Yavapai County, Arizona,
reached from Flagstaff on the Santa Fe Railroad, or by motor over the
National Old Trails Road, or via the Jerome-Prescott Road.
WUPATKI NATIONAL MONUMENT
When the Snake families of the Hopi Indians journeyed
east out of the Colorado River Canyon, where as their legend has it
their ancestors came up out of the underworld, they stopped at Wupatki
on the Little Colorado River, thirty-two miles northeast of Flagstaff,
and built a temporary city. The ruins of this pueblo now constitute the
attraction of the Wupatki National Monument. The Indians deserted their
red sandstone houses many generations ago and went to live with the rest
of the People of Peace, as the Hopis call themselves. They are one of
the most picturesque tribes of the Southwest. Their famous annual snake
dances, dedicated to the rain gods, have made them famous the world
over. The ruins of Wupatki Monument are an important link in the chain
of evidence by which the story of these ancient people of the desert is
being gathered. Motorists may reach them on the Tuba City Road from
Flagstaff, which is the nearest railway station, being on the Santa Fe
Railroad.
NAVAHO NATIONAL MONUMENT
The Navaho National Monument is in northeastern
Arizona, within the Navaho Indian reservation. It contains ruins of
prehistoric dwellings, pueblos built in natural caves by the fortunate
discoverers. They are in a good state of preservation. Betatakin, one of
these caves, is 450 feet long and 150 feet deep, carved in the red
sandstone of a beautiful canyon. Within the cave was a never failing
spring of pure water, supplying the needs of the inhabitants, who lived
in 120 rooms constructed in the cave. Kitsil is another cave pueblo,
even larger, with 148 rooms in it. A riot of color greets the visitor to
these caves, the surrounding walls resembling the Grand Canyon in
texture. The Navaho Monument is reached by motor stage from Grand Canyon
or from Flagstaff, both on the Santa Fe Railroad, or by motor from
either of these points over the National Old Trails Road to Kayenta,
where pack and saddle animals and Indian guides are engaged for the trip
up the canyon to the monument.
PAPAGO SAGUARO MONUMENT
Nothing that the visitor to the Southwest sees makes
a greater impression on him than does the giant saguaro cactus of
Arizona and neighboring states. These enormous cacti grow into veritable
trees, while around them, less huge but equally novel, are the barrel
cactus from which candy is made, the cholla, more popularly known as
"jumping cactus" from its habit of connecting itself with any passing
object, and various other species of cacti. With the increase in
irrigation, many of the finer stands of the giant saguaro cactus are
being cleared off to make way for farms.
The Papago Saguaro Monument preserves one of the most
picturesque of these stands of giant saguaro, not far from Phoenix, on
the Tempe Road. It also contains other cacti plants of the desert, as
well as certain birds that are found nowhere except in the vicinity of
the giant saguaro. The monument area of nineteen hundred acres includes
Hole-in-the-Rock Mountain, a curious purple rock mountain with a tunnel
through it, projecting out of the desert sands. The Papago Monument is
reached by a short drive from Phoenix which is on both the Southern
Pacific and the Santa Fe railroads.
PIPE SPRING NATIONAL MONUMENT
In 1858 Brigham Young, the Mormon chief, sent Jacob
Hamblin, famous scout and crack shot, to call upon the Hopi Indians in
northern Arizona. The party camped one night at a marvelous spring in
the midst of a desert and an argument arose as to whether Hamblin could
shoot a hole through a handkerchief at twenty yards. Hamblin hit the
square of silk, but the force of the bullet only swept the handkerchief
away. Chagrined by the laugh that followed at his failure, Hamblin
challenged one of the party to stick up his pipe. Hamblin shot the
bottom out of it like a flash without breaking the bowl. That was the
origin of the name given to the old Mormon fort which was built soon
thereafter at the site of this remarkable spring. The fort was an
important outpost against marauding Indians, and was the center of a
cattle industry established by the Mormons. The spring still flows at
the rate of a hundred thousand gallons of pure, cold water a day, a
refreshing oasis as well as a scenic attraction to the traveler over the
main road from Zion National Park to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon
of Arizona.
CARLSBAD CAVE NATIONAL MONUMENT
Located in the Guadalupe Mountains in southeastern
New Mexico is one of the most beautiful and remarkable natural caves in
the country, the Carlsbad Cave. This cave was once known as Bat Cave
because of the thousands of bats which inhabited it. At dusk each
evening these little mammals poured forth for three hours through a
large natural opening in such enormous numbers that it was said they
looked like smoke from a chimney. In the early morning they returned and
with incredible swiftness folded their wings in mid-air and darted into
the opening.
The exploration of the cave was not undertaken
seriously until 1923, when a party searched for six months without
penetrating all of the lofty, spacious chambers, connecting corridors,
and alcoves, many of them of remarkable beauty and form. The Big Room is
more than half a mile long, is 400 feet wide in places, and is 348 feet
high at one place. Here the stalactites are of infinite variety and
shape, ranging from almost needle-like proportions to massive pendants.
The stalagmites rising from the floor are equally interesting, one group
resembling the tall and graceful totem poles of the Alaska Indians. In
some places they rise to the ceiling, like cathedral columns. Another
remarkable room is the Music Room, with its formations resembling huge
organ pipes. Here the stalactites, when lightly tapped, give off musical
sounds. Others resemble curtains.
The reservation includes 719 acres, but the extent of
the caves is not known, many of them being as yet unpenetrated. They
await the explorer. Paths, stairways, and railings make the main rooms
safe for the visitor, while flood lights are installed in some of the
rooms. The cave is twenty-six miles from Carlsbad, New Mexico, on the
Ozark Trails and on a branch line of the Santa Fe Railroad.
CHACO CANYON
As skilful architects the prehistoric builders who
lived in Chaco Canyon, New Mexico, between Albuquerque and Gallup, were
without equals in the whole of the United States. No written word is
left of these people whose cultural material, recovered from abandoned
rooms, reveals greater variety, technique, and beauty of design than
that of any other of the ancient peoples of the Southwest.
Pueblo Bonito, "Beautiful Village," the largest of
the ruins, is a great semicircular structure, originally five stories
high. It was 667 feet long and 315 feet deep, an enormous building, and
it has been characterized as the largest apartment house built anywhere
in the world prior to 1887, housing 1,300 people. This structure is but
one of eighteen villages in the Chaco Canyon, several of the others
being almost equally remarkable in construction, though not as large.
Near some of the ruins evidences of ancient irrigation engineering are
plainly traceable.
Chaco Canyon is one of the larger national monuments,
comprising 20,629 acres. The ruins are most easily reached from Thoreau,
on the Santa Fe Railroad, or by motor over the Old Trails Highway from
either Albuquerque or Gallup, New Mexico. There is a small store at
Chaco Canyon and limited accommodations are available. Motorists should
be prepared to camp, sites being plentiful.
EL MORRO
Ordinarily, carving upon the walls of monuments is an
act frowned upon and punished by fine, but in the case of El Morro the
carving upon the sandstone wall was the occasion for making a national
monument. On the smooth walls of this sandstone cliff, in west central
New Mexico, the early Spanish explorers carved records of their exploits
and of their expeditions against the Indians. The earliest of these
Spanish records is that of Don Juan de Onate, governor and colonizer of
New Mexico, and founder of the city of Santa Fe, the oldest city in the
country, who rested by this cliff on his return from a trip to the head
of the Gulf of California in 1606, fourteen years before the Pilgrim
Fathers landed at Plymouth. Don Juan records that the Indians "gave
their obedience" and that he granted them favor "with clemency, zeal,
and prudence." Other and succeeding Spanish conquistadores left their
records beside those of Don Juan.
It should be added that the idea of recording
exploits upon these rocks was not original with Don Juan. He carved his
record over those of prehistoric Indians who left their thoughts in
pictographs, many of which are not destroyed by the Spanish records. The
Indian records may play an important part in piecing together the
history of the Southwest Indians. The visit to El Morro is an
interesting side trip for motorists over the National Old Trails
Highway. El Morro is reached by rail from Gallup, New Mexico, on the
Santa Fe Railroad.
AZTEC RUIN NATIONAL MONUMENT
Situated near the town of Aztec, New Mexico, and
reached by the National Park-to-Park Highway, is the Aztec Ruin National
Monument, a large E-shaped structure of the pueblo type containing
approximately five hundred rooms. The Aztec Ruin is the largest of a
group of ruins, and is the most striking and best preserved. Relics,
including a hafted axe, potsherds, and other objects, indicate that the
inhabitants of this ruin may have been of the same peoples as the Mesa
Verde Indians. It may prove an important link in piecing together the
story of these early Americans. Excavations are being conducted by the
American Museum of Natural History, which deeded the ruin to the
government in 1923 through the courtesy of a trustee, Mr. Archer M.
Huntington.
GRAN QUIVIRA
The Gran Quivira is the ruins of one of the important
links in the chain of Spanish missions of the Southwest. It is near
Mountainair, New Mexico, on the Santa Fe Railroad, or can be reached on
the National Old Trails Highway from Socorro, New Mexico. There are
numerous Indian pueblo ruins near by which will be preserved when
excavated. Both the mission and the pueblos are said to have been built
by women and children of the Piro tribe of Indians.
CAPULIN MOUNTAIN NATIONAL MONUMENT
Capulin Mountain, New Mexico, is a magnificent
example of a recently extinct volcano. It rises to an altitude of 8,000
feet above sea level, and the cone stands 1,500 feet above the general
level of the surrounding plain. This steep cinder cone is surrounded by
the mesas, peculiar to New Mexico. The whole formation offers an
interesting study in volcanic activity, the mesas as well as the cone
having been formed by successive lava flows. At the top of the mountain
the crater can be studied with ease. This monument covers an area of 680
acres. It is reached via the Colorado-to-Gulf Highway or via a branch
line of the Santa Fe Railroad from the town of Dedman, or from the town
of Folsom on the Colorado Southern Railroad.
RAINBOW BRIDGE
The most remarkable natural bridge yet discovered in
the world is the Rainbow Bridge in southern Utah. This colorful bridge
is not only perfect in its symmetry, both top and bottom, but it is so
huge that the dome of the Capitol Building in Washington could stand
under it without touching the span, which is 309 feet high and 278 feet
from pier to pier. The Rainbow Bridge is now easily reached over new
trails from Kayenta, Arizona, which is also the starting point for trail
trips to the Navaho National Monument.
THE NATURAL BRIDGES OF UTAH
Three natural bridges of great size and beauty are
included in the Natural Bridges Monument of San Juan County, Utah,
containing 2,740 acres. Owanchomo Bridge, the smallest of the three, has
a span of 194 feet and is 108 feet above the stream bed. The Caroline
Bridge, three miles down stream, is the most massive, having a span of
186 feet and a height of 205 feet above the stream bed. A short distance
away is the Augusta Bridge, the largest, its span extending 261 feet and
rising 222 feet above the stream bed. This great natural bridge is 28
feet wide and 65 feet thick at its smallest part. It is truly an
enormous structure. On the Caroline Bridge are carvings of the symbols
of the Hopi dancers, while near by are ruins of cliff dwellings. The
natural bridges were formed by stream erosion which washed out the
canyons below them. These objects of great interest are reached by trail
parties, a fifty-mile trip from Blanding, Utah, on the Rio Grande
Railroad and on the Pikes Peak Ocean-to-Ocean Highway.
DINOSAUR NATIONAL MONUMENT
The greatest collection in the world of fossil
remains of dinosaurs and other prehistoric reptiles is in Dinosaur
National Park in northeastern Utah. In some ancient time this area was
probably a sand bar, in which great reptiles, floating down some
prehistoric river, were mired and trapped. Many species of the strange
creatures who inhabited the earth in the dim past were caught in these
bogs. Already four hundred thousand pounds of material, including bones
and matrix, have been taken from the quarry, now the walls of a
beautiful mountain canyon.
The greatest prize of all was a skeleton of the
largest brontesaurus known to science, a creature which measured one
hundred feet long and twenty feet high, and probably weighed twenty tons
in life, so huge that beside him a full-grown elephant would appear as
a dog is to a horse. There are thousands of other skeletons in these
walls, awaiting excavation. The monument is reached by motor from
Jensen, Utah, on the Victory Highway, or from Watson, Utah, on the
narrow-guage Uintah Railroad, connecting with the Denver & Rio
Grande Western at Mack, Colorado.
SCOTTS BLUFF MONUMENT
Thousands of pioneers, headed for the Pacific over
the old Oregon Trail, marked their course by a great promontory known as
Scotts Bluff in the northern part of Nebraska. As far back as 1812,
trail blazers noted this point of sandstone, towering four thousand feet
above the neighboring Platte Valley. Hiram Scott, for whom the point was
named, was one of three trappers separated from a large party that was
to rendezvous by the bluff. Scott was deserted by his two companions
when he was stricken with mountain fever. He crawled seventy miles,
hoping to rejoin the larger party; but he was too late. Beneath the
bluff which now bears his name Scott died. His remains were found the
next year.
Scotts Bluff was a guide for the pioneers en route to
Oregon and California. It guided the missionaries in their trips among
the Indians. It was a station on the Pony Express. It figured in Indian
wars. In 1847, Fort Fontanelle was established at its base. In more
recent years, a tunnel has been bored through its base, and through it
flows a great flood of water to irrigate thousands of acres of land on
the North Platte project. It is visited by thousands each year, being
one of the most popular of the monuments. Scotts Bluff is reached by the
Lincoln Highway through the North Platte Valley or by rail from Gering
on the Union Pacific and from Scottsbluff on the Burlington Route.
HOVENWEEP MONUMENT
Hovenweep Monument preserves some unusual prehistoric
towers, pueblos, and cliff dwellings, not far from Mesa Verde National
Park on the Colorado and Utah boundary line. They represent a special
architectural type peculiar to this region, and are important in the
study of the ancient life of the Southwest. The ruins are reached from
Mesa Verde National Park, or via the Denver & Rio Grande Western
Railroad to Dolores, Colorado.
COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT
Five miles from Grand Junction, Colorado, on the
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, is the Colorado National Monument, a
beautiful and picturesque collection of monoliths and other examples of
erosion, all highly colored. The reservation is 13,883 acres in extent,
is plentifully supplied with springs, and is a veritable forest of
monoliths. It is reached by the Pikes Peak Ocean-to-Ocean Highway and
the National Roosevelt Midland Trail. It is a fine camping spot for
motorists.
YUCCA HOUSE MONUMENT
Yucca House Monument, so named because of the
quantity of yuccas growing in the vicinity, is in southwestern Colorado.
The area contains the ruins of a prehistoric Indian village yet to be
excavated. It is apparently a house of great size, built on the gentle
slope of Sleeping Ute, a mountain so named because when seen from
certain points it resembles the form of a sleeping Indian. The monument
is near the road from Shiprock, New Mexico, to Cortez, Colorado, about
fifteen miles from the latter town.
THE DEVILS TOWER
The alleged works of His Satanic Majesty figure
prominently in the choice of national monuments, but nowhere is there an
object of greater wonder than the Devils Tower in the Black Hills region
of Wyoming. This great group of pentagonal volcanic columns rises six
hundred feet, or higher than the Washington Monument, perpendicularly
from the surrounding plain. The diameter at the base is seventeen
hundred feet. It is one of the strangest freaks of Nature, a spectacle
never to be forgotten.
The Devils Tower played an important part in the
lives of the Indians, not only as a landmark, but also in their legends.
The origin of the rock is explained by the Indians very easily. One day,
so the legend goes, three Sioux maidens, gathering wild flowers, were
beset by three bears. The maidens took refuge on a rock, but the bears,
having sharp claws, also began climbing the rock. The Great Spirit,
seeing the predicament of the maidens, caused the rock to grow higher
and higher out of the ground. The bears climbed and climbed until they
were exhausted, and then fell hundreds of feet to their death on the
ground below. Saved from the ferocious animals, the Indian maidens made
a rope of their flowers and safely lowered themselves to the ground
below.
Believe it or not, it appears as though that, or a
phenomenon of similar nature, must have happened to project this great
rock so high above the plain. The Indians also claimed that the Thunder
God beat his tom-tom on the top of the tower, thus causing thunder. The
tower also served the white pioneers in their Indian wars, being a
direction point. The reservation is 1,152 acres in extent and is reached
by the Custer Battlefield Highway and the Black and Yellow Trail, or by
the Burlington Railroad from Moorcroft station. A fine campsite is
available for motorists.
SHOSHONE CAVERN
The Shoshone Cavern is a regular story-book robbers'
cave, its secret entrance located high up a mountain cliff among the
trees. The cavern is about four miles from Cody and on the Cody Road,
one of the main entrances to Yellowstone Park. The entrance is about
twenty feet wide and six feet high. Once inside, the cavea large
fault in the mountainsextends back for more than half a mile. Off
it are numerous side caverns, many of which are not yet explored. Guides
are needed to find the entrance of the cave, reached after a trail climb
of a mile, and a further climb up precipitous ladders. Inside the cavern
are interesting and beautiful formations.
FOSSIL CYCAD MONUMENT
In a picturesque part of the Black Hills of South
Dakota is found the Fossil Cycad National Monument, an area of 320 acres
wherein are found deposits of ancient fern-like plants of the Mesozoic
period. It is the most interesting fossil-plant bed yet discovered. In
it have been unearthed plants of enormous size, some with unexpanded
buds, enabling scientists to piece together models of ancient flowers
and fruits. This monument is reached from the Denver-Deadwood Highway,
or via the Chicago & Northwestern Railroad from Hot Springs, South
Dakota, or the Burlington Route from Minnekahta or Edgemont.
VERENDRYE MONUMENT
Verendrye National Monument commemorates the
explorations of the celebrated French explorer and his sons, who first
pushed into the Montana territory in 1742 and who continued their
pioneering during the following years, dreaming of a great trapping and
hunting empire which was to be the possession of France. Their dreams
failed, but their ideals are commemorated by this monument, the most
conspicuous feature of which is Crowhigh Butte, towering above the upper
Missouri River.
LEWIS AND CLARK CAVERN
So named because it overlooks the Lewis and Clark
Trail for fifty miles, the Lewis and Clark Cavern Monument is located in
Montana about forty-five miles northeast of Butte. It is near the
highway known as the Yellowstone Trail and is not far from Whitehall on
the Northern Pacific Railroad. The cave contains many beautiful
stalagmites and stalactites, and curious drip formations in its various
chambers add to its interest and beauty. It is a very large cave and is
one of the finest caverns of the West.
CRATERS OF THE MOON
Nowhere else in the United States can so many
features of volcanic activity be found in a small area as in the
thirty-nine square miles that make up the Craters of the Moon National
Monument in central Idaho at the foot of the White Komb Mountains. The
monument takes its name from the fact that it resembles the moon as seen
through a high-powered telescope. The profusion of cinder cones,
craters, hornitos, black lava floods, and lava caves indicate that this
section is of comparatively recent volcanic activity. The region is rich
in geologic interest. The nearest railroad station is Arco on the Oregon
Short Line. Comfortable accommodations are available here. The monument
is reached by motorists over the Idaho Central Highway from Boise or
from Yellowstone.
SITKA NATIONAL MONUMENT
Sitka National Monument, fifty-seven acres on Sitka
Bay, commemorates the "Battle of Alaska" in 1804, when the Russians
finally established their supremacy over the warlike Indian tribes of
the northwest territory. It is likewise the site of a fine collection of
totem poles, sixteen in number, among the finest in Alaska. These totem
poles record the genealogy of the old Alaska Indian tribes, each family
having as its emblem an animal, which figures prominently in the
carvings of the totem pole. Each pole tells the exploits of the family
it represents. The Indians were bound by tradition to offer shelter to
traveling members of the same family, and the totem pole in the front of
a hut told the traveler whether or not he could find welcome in that
particular hut. The Sitka Monument totem poles are from two different
tribes, the Thlingits and the Hycahs. The former hollowed out their
totem poles and deposited in them the charred bones of their dead. The
monument also contains some unusual forest growth, including a "witch
tree" much feared even by the present generation of Indians, because in
olden times witch trials were held under this tree and victims were
hanged from its limbs. The monument is easily reached from the town of
Sitka, a regular port of call for the steamers from Seattle.
GLACIER BAY
Glacier Bay National Monument, containing 1,820
square miles, includes a number of tidewater glaciers of first rank in a
magnificent setting of lofty peaks. These glaciers are higher than the
masts of ships and offer unique opportunities for the study of glacial
action. The monument must be reached by water from Alaska or British
Columbia.
KATMAI NATIONAL MONUMENT
Katmai Monument is more widely known as the "Valley
of Ten Thousand Smokes." It is a volcanic belt of extraordinary recent
activity in southern Alaska. It is the largest of the monuments, with an
area of more than a million acres. As recently as 1912, Mount Katmai on
the reservation erupted, belching forth several cubic miles of volcanic
materials. In the "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes" there are literally
millions of miniature volcanoes jetting steam or vapor into the air.
They are so hot that explorers cooked their meals over this natural
steam heat. It is said that this valley is now an example of what
Yellowstone was like many, many years ago, when the Yellowstone
volcanoes were just ceasing their activity. Some scientists predict that
the "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes" will in some future age be another
great new geyser basin.
In addition, Katmai Monument is a valuable game
preserve with a plentiful animal and bird life. At present the monument
is almost inaccessible except to organized exploring parties, but in
time a harbor can be developed and a thirty-mile road will make it
easily reached by visitors. It was thoroughly explored, mapped,
photographed, and described by parties sent out by the National
Geographic Society, and its magazine told the world of the wonders of
the region.
ARCHES NATIONAL MONUMENT
This monument, established by President Hoover on
April 12, 1929, consists of two areas in Grand County, Utah, known
locally as the "Devil's Garden" and the "Windows," containing
approximately 2,600 and 1,920 acres, respectively. Within these areas
are extraordinary examples of wind erosion, formed into gigantic arches,
natural bridges, "windows," spires, balanced rocks, and other unique
wind-worn formations of sandstone.
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