GRAND TETON Circular of General Information 1936

WILDLIFE

For a great many years Jackson Hole has been famed for its big game, and to those who wish to see wild animals the expenditure of a little time in favorable localities usually will reveal them.

The visitor should not be disappointed if he does not always see animals from his automobile as he drives through the park. In most cases the roads have been built so as to avoid going through localities inhabited by wildlife for fear of frightening it and driving it away.

Within the actual confines of the park, Shiras' moose is the most common big game animal, and it is frequently seen in the smaller ponds and marshy meadows. Though the moose is the largest member of the deer family, it is not as wary as the deer and is comparatively easy to see.

Mule deer are increasing in the park, as well as in the rest of Jackson Hole. Though quite shy, they are often seen along the many miles of trail which are accessible to both rider and hiker.

White-tailed deer are occasionally seen in the park, although these animals are quite rare.

The elk, or wapati, have been the most important of the big game animals in Jackson Hole, at least, since the occupancy of white men; and they have done much to make the valley known to the world. Their history constitutes one of the most interesting chapters in the story of the valley. Not many years ago as the winter range of the elk was more and more taken up by the cattleman and rancher, depriving the elk of the areas where they might find winter forage not too deeply covered by winter snow, it became apparent that something must be done to save these magnificent animals. Toward this end a Government ranch was established near the town of Jackson, where the elk could be fed during the winter months. The preservation of the Jackson Hole elk herd is now assured.

In the spring elk leave the low country and the Government feed grounds and move toward the high country in Yellowstone Park and south of it, on Big Game Ridge, the Thorofare Plateau, and in the mountains east of Jackson Hole. A small herd summers in the north end of the Teton Range. With snowfall in the high country, the elk again move down until by November or December they are back on the feed grounds.

Baby moose. Crandall photo.

A small herd of bighorns, or Rocky Mountain sheep, ranges in the Teton Mountains. Large numbers of bighorns are found, however, in the mountains east and south of Jackson Hole.

In the park there are many smaller mammals, among them the golden-mantled marmot, or "rockchuck", whose shrill whistling makes his presence known at all altitudes from the valley floor to the peak summits. Marmots make interesting pets, and tame ones are not uncommon. Like bears, marmots hibernate through the winter.

Conies (pikas) are common throughout the rock slides, where these little animals find numerous refuges. They are guinea-piglike creatures, usually grayish in color and 7 or 8 inches long. In the rock slides one may find the little haypiles which they make of the plants growing nearby. Though very little is known concerning the winter habits of these alpine animals, it is possible that they do not hibernate but during the winter live on their stored hay and what additional food is to be found under the snow.

Bears are found only in the mountains and canyons of the park. They do not invade the camp grounds.

That most interesting of smaller mammals, the beaver, is common, and it is not difficult to find the houses and dams which they have built. In the camp grounds are pine squirrels, chipmunks, ground squirrels, and mice. Mink, marten, otter, weasels, coyotes, badgers, fox, and lynx also are found in the park.

The Grand Teton National Park offers much to the bird student. Though the region is old in history, it is new in possibilities of avian observation, and the seeker finds types from those which inhabit the arid sage brush plains to those which spend their lives in the frigid atmosphere far above timberline.

In number, there are more than 100 species, a variety which will keep any ornithologist busy for as long as his stay permits. A list of 93 species was made during June and July 1933, and at least 3 more species were added in 1934. Many of these are easily studied within a few hundred yards of the Jenny Lake Ranger Station.

A complete check-list of the park birds, as far as now known, may be obtained by application to park headquarters.

The snow-capped Tetons look down on beautiful wild-flower fields. Copyright, Crandall.

TREES AND PLANTS

In several respects the flora of the Tetons is unique. The high mountains have constituted a barrier to plant migration which many forms could not cross; hence the range limit of a number of plants is found here. Representatives from north, south, east, and west are found in this general region, this being the limit, in many instances, of their distribution. There are many plants typical of the central Rockies, and a few known only to this range. Five life zones are recognized within the park, all occurring in a distance of less than 15 miles. Plants migrating from other regions have grown equally well in each zone.

The flowering period begins in the park as soon as the ridges and flats are free of snow in May, and it continues until about August 15 in the Arctic-Alpine Zone. Hence, plants of at least one zone and usually of several may be seen blooming at any time in the spring or summer.

The evergreen trees form an appropriate frame for the majestic Teton peaks and are reflected in the beautiful lakes which they encircle.

Alpine meadow along trail in South Cascade Canyon. Crandall photo.

Lodgepole pine is the most common tree, covering the floor of the valley and extending up the mountains to about 8,000 feet. The pines may be easily distinguished from the other evergreens by the long slender needles occurring in bundles. Lodgepole has two needles in each bundle. Trees of this species were extensively used by the Indians for lodge poles.

Whitebark pine is the tree of timberline; the occasional specimens found at a lower elevation are usually dwarfed. Needles occur 5 in each bundle; cones 2 to 3 inches long and almost ovate; the tree is much-branched and of medium size.

Douglas tree has been called "Douglas spruce", "Douglas fir", and "red fir"; however, it is neither a spruce nor a fir but is worthy of separate distinction. One needle; cones 2 to 4 inches long; a three-lobed bract projects from beneath each scale of the cone, a very distinctive character; common at middle elevations.

Alpine fir grows from the base of the mountains to timber line; at high altitudes it is dwarfed and sprawling. One needle, flat; cones 2 to 3 inches long, scales paper-like; tree usually pyramidal and beautifully symmetrical.

Engelmann spruce is the largest tree in the park, and is usually found growing in moist places and near the lakes and streams. One needle, square in cross-section, stiff and sharp; cones 2 to 3 inches long, scales papery.

Blue spruce is not common and is found only in the Snake River bottoms. The form found here is not typical, lacking the blue cast. One needle, square in cross-section, stiff and sharp; cones 3 to 5 inches long, scales papery.

Creeping juniper is not common. It is a prostrate form, lacking definite trunk. Leaves awllike, one-half inch long or less, stiff and sharp, spreading from the twigs; fruit, berrylike.

Aspen is the most common deciduous tree of the valley, growing on the slopes up to about 8,000 feet. The leaves are on very slender stalks and the slightest breeze puts them into motion, hence the popular names "Quaking asp" and "Quaking aspen." Leaves rounded, 1 to 3 inches broad, with a slender stalk of about the same length; bark smooth and whitish.

Balsam poplar is found along some of the stream banks and is the largest deciduous tree of the park. Leaves about 3 inches long and 2 inches broad, longer than the stalk; bark smooth on the young trees, becoming rough as the trees get older. The small seed pods contain many seeds, to each of which is attached a tuft of white hair or "cotton"; hence one of the common names, "Cottonwood."

Museum at Jenny Lake. Grant photo.

NATURALIST SERVICE

At Jenny Lake is located the park museum, which also serves as the ranger station. In it are housed exhibits pertaining to the history, geology, fauna, and flora of the Teton-Jackson Hole country. The collection devoted to mountaineering is in many respects unique. Adjacent to the museum is an open-air amphitheater where campfire talks on geology, wildlife, and other subjects related to the park are given every evening at dusk by ranger-naturalists.

An information desk is maintained at the museum, and rangers are there at all hours of the day to answer inquiries. Information service is also maintained at park headquarters, and a library is there for those wishing to do reference work.

FISHING

Grand Teton Park offers splendid opportunities for fishing. Fish may be taken with the artificial fly during most of the summer, but the lake or mackinaw trout which are present in Jackson and Jenny Lakes must be lured with bait and caught with heavy tackle. Other species of trout in park waters are the cutthroat (also known as redthroat, native, and black-spotted), the Loch Leven, and the brook or speckled trout. The park waters are being stocked through the cooperation of the United States Bureau of Fisheries. A Wyoming fishing license, costing $1.50 for State residents and $3 for nonresidents, is required. For $1.50, however, non-residents may secure a 5-day fishing permit.

Laurel Lake—a habitat of moose.

SWIMMING

Jenny, Beaver Dick, and Leigh Lakes offer exceptional opportunities for those who enjoy lake bathing. Especially at Leigh Lake is this sport becoming more popular each year.

HUNTING

Jackson Hoile has long been a noted hunting country, and under Wyoming laws elk, deer, sheep, moose, and bear may be hunted in the mountains east and south of Jackson Hoile. Parties interested in hunting should consult the local game warden or the State Fish and Game Department at Cheyenne, Wyo., for information as to licenses and seasons.

No hunting is permitted in the Grand Teton National Park, which, of course, will always be a complete sanctuary for wildlife.

DUDE RANCHES

The trail of the summer vacationist has deviated during the last decade from the old familiar courses to embrace vast areas in Wyoming and Montana. A veritable invasion of eastern tourists, known in the parlance of men of the range as "dudes", has followed the opening up by modern transportation of this beautiful country.

Located in the mountainous regions of these two far western States, on the last frontier, are the dude ranches, in the mouths of canyons, among foothills, or in clearings in the forest. These ranches are not pretentious places, but are rustic and unique. Their popularity began in 1904, when Howard, Willis, and Alden Eaton established the now famous Eaton brothers' "Dude Ranch" at Wolf, Wyo.

Many of these ranches are situated in territory within easy access to the Grand Teton and Yellowstone Parks. Near the former are the Dubois (Wyo.) dude ranches and those of the famous Jackson Hole. A complete list may be obtained by addressing the Dude Ranchers' Association Billings, Mont.

ADMINISTRATION

The representative of the National Park Service in immediate charge of the park is Guy D. Edwards, superintendent, with office at park headquarters; address, Moose, Wyo.

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK.
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HOW TO REACH THE PARK

BY AUTOMOBILE

The Grand Teton National Park is reached by automobile from the north, south, east, and west. Each of these approaches is highly scenic in character affording splendid distant views of the Teton Range and Jackson Hole. United States Highway No. 87 West connects Jackson Hole with Yellowstone Park and is the north approach to the Teton Park. One mile north of Moran the traveler reaches United States Highway No. 187 which traverses Jackson Hole and makes the park accessible. From the east United States Highway No. 87 West, known as the Atlantic-Yellowstone-Pacific Highway, enters Jackson Hole through Togwotee Pass, altitude 9,658 feet, and the Buffalo Fork of the Snake River, joining the road from Yellowstone Park, 1 mile north of Moran. The south road enters Jackson Hole via Hoback Canyon. This is an improved highway (U S 187) leaving Rock Springs, Wyo., on the Lincoln Highway. United States Highway No. 287, leading to Kemmerer, Wyo., connects with United States Highway No. 187 at Daniel, Wyo.

There is also the western approach road from Idaho via Teton Pass to Wilson and Jackson. This highway crosses the Teton Range at an altitude of 8,429 feet.

Highway south of Moran, Jackson Lake, and the Tetons. Grant photo.

BY RAILROAD

At the present time parties may reach the Grand Teton National Park by using rail lines to several gateways. The Union Pacific System has its nearest terminal at Victor, Idaho. It operates daily trains to and from Victor in the tourist season, and there is bus service from the rail terminus to Jackson, Grand Teton National Park, and Moran. Union Pacific passengers upon leaving the train at Rock Springs, Wyo., may make connections with the mail stage which leaves daily except Sunday to the Teton region, by way of Hoback Canyon.

For many years the Yellowstone Park Transportation Co. has operated daily bus service between Old Faithful and Moran. It makes connections at Old Faithful, which enable passengers coming to Yellowstone Park via the Union Pacific (West Yellowstone Gateway), Northern Pacific (Gardiner Gateway), Chicago, Burlington & Quincy (Cody Gateway), and Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul & Pacific (Gallatin Gateway), comfortably and quickly to reach the Grand Teton National Park.

BY AIRPLANE

United Air Lines in its transcontinental route from New York to San Francisco has a stop at Rock Springs, Wyo., which makes available for persons of limited time an opportunity to visit the park.

A mail stage leaves Rock Springs daily, except Sunday, for Grand Teton National Park via the Hoback Canyon.

The Teton Mountains from a small island in Jackson Lake. Copyright, Crandall.

POINTS OF INTEREST ALONG THE WAY

The Grand Teton National Park is located in the interior of a vast mountain region, and its avenues of approach are, of necessity, through canyons and passes. These approaches are themselves of great interest and beauty, and afford magnificent distant views of the Teton Range. The country traversed is rich in associations of the Old West and contains numerous historic shrines which deserve the attention of the passing traveler.

The north approach, from Yellowstone Park by United States Highway No. 87 West, passes over the Continental Divide just a few miles south of West Thumb, and in leaving the Yellowstone Plateau follows the course of Lewis River. In the dense forests along this wilderness stream there are exceptional opportunities to see big game, such as elk, deer, moose, and bears. Descending into Jackson Hole, the highway skirts the east shore of Jackson Lake, and the view of the distant Tetons, rising from the far shore of the lake, is one the traveler will not soon forget. At this distance they glisten in delicate blue and white, so sharp they seem actually to bristle.

The west approach, from Salt Lake City and points farther west, leaves United States Highways Nos. 91 and 191 at Idaho Falls, Sugar City, or Ashton, Idaho, as most convenient, traverses historic Teton Basin, the "Pierres Hole" of the early trappers, and passes over Teton Pass, elevation 8,429 feet, to the town of Jackson, which lies in the south end of Jackson Hole about 15 miles south of Teton Park headquarters. This approach is the only one from which the three Tetons, noted landmarks of a century ago, stand out prominently, and the view of this trio is highly impressive. No less spectacular is the panorama of Jackson Hole revealed as one reaches the summit of Teton Pass. Undoubtedly the Teton Pass view is the finest to be had of this basin from any point on the highways.

The south approach, from Evanston, Kemmerer, Rock Springs, and other towns in southern Wyoming, follows United States Highway No. 187 or Wyoming Highway No. 287, and avoids all high mountain passes, entering Jackson Hole by way of the Hoback Canyon. This road does not open up glimpses of the Tetons until one is well into Jackson Hole, but it affords excellent views of the snow-clad Wind River Range. Strung along its course is a series of interesting monuments marking such historic spots as the site of Fort Bonneville, founded in 1832; the location of the fur trappers' rendezvous of 1824; the grave of John Hoback, guide to the early expedition known as "the Astorians"; and similar interesting places. At a point called "Names Hill", between Kemmerer and Tulsa, Wyo., can be seen names and dates as old as the 1820's carved in sandstone by the early trappers and travelers in this region.

The east approach, from the Black Hills, Casper, Cheyenne, Denver, and points farther east, crosses the Wind River Range into Jackson Hole over the Continental Divide at Togwotee Pass, on United States Highway No. 87 West. If so desired, in driving from Casper to Riverton one can choose the modern road which retraces part of the Oregon Trail, past such famous landmarks on the old trail as Independence Rock, Devils Gate, Muddy Gap, Whiskey Gap, and Split Rock. From Lander or Riverton a visit to the Shoshone Indian Reservation can be made with little increase of mileage. The approach to Togwotee Pass from either side is surprisingly fine, and the view of the Tetons from points just west of this pass is one of the finest obtainable. For boldness and jaggedness of skyline the Tetons thus seen from a distance of 40 miles have no rival anywhere.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND EXPENSES

There are no hotels or lodges within the park, but these accommodations are available nearby at Jackson and Moran at reasonable rates. Dude ranches and cabin camps near the park also offer suitable accommodations at reasonable rates. The National Park Service has no control over these enterprises.

PUBLIC CAMP GROUNDS

There are modern, well-developed camp grounds at Jenny and Beaver Dick Lakes. These camps are supplied with running water, sanitary facilities, and cooking grates. There are also many camping sites away from the main camps, suitable for overnight stops for pack outfits. Supplies, including fishing tackle, may be procured at Moran, Jenny Lake, Jackson, or Wilson.

SADDLE HORSES

At the south end of Jenny Lake, near the ranger station, A. C. Lyon maintains an excellent string of saddle and pack horses with good equipment for short or long trips. One may rent saddle horses without guides, but only to ride over well-defined trails in designated areas. Discretion as to the ability of patrons to ride, or to go unguided, rests with the operator. Saddle horses, without a guide, cost $1 an hour, $3.50 per day, or $14 per week. For guided parties of less than 5 the charge is $7 each a day; more than 5, $5 a day. Eight hours constitutes a day. Saddle-horse trips to special points of interest, such as Teton Glacier or Indian Paintbrush Canyon, are made daily at reasonable rates. Pack trips to any part of the park or surrounding country, with guide, cook, and complete camping equipment may be arranged on a day's notice for parties of 5 or more at a charge of $12.50 each a day. Educational 7-day pack trips, for teachers and students interested in geology or biology, leave headquarters each week. A guide specially trained, hired by the operator, accompanies such educational pack trips., Rate, covering all expenses, $75 per week, per person.

BOATING

At the south end of Jenny Lake also, D. Kenneth Reimers maintains motorboat and rowboat service. Four or more persons may make a trip around Jenny Lake for 50 cents each. Rowboats may be rented for 50 cents an hour or $2 a day. Motorboats, with a driver, are $2 an hour, $1.50 each additional hour, and $10 a day; without a driver, $1.50 an hour, and $6 a day.

GUIDE SERVICE

The authorized official guide for mountain-climbing trips in Grand Teton National Park is Paul Petzoldt. He maintains summer headquarters at Jenny Lake, and charges $8 a day, a person, for his services. Climbers may provide their own food or have their meals at $2 each at a timberline camp. Blankets and eiderdown sleeping bags may be rented for $2.

PHOTOGRAPHS

The Crandall Studios maintain up-to-date picture shops at Jenny Lake and Moran. Photographs of the Teton Mountains and the surrounding country in all sizes and styles, as well as hand-painted enlargements, paintings, moving pictures, and souvenir postcards, are on sale. Laboratories in the park are maintained for developing, printing, and enlarging photographs.

This booklet is issued once a year, and the rates mentioned herein may have changed slightly since issuance, but the latest rates approved by the Secretary of the Interior are on file with the superintendent and the park operators.

MOTOR TRANSPORTATION

Regular bus service is maintained between Yellowstone and Moran, Wyo.; also from Moran to Victor, Idaho, via Grand Teton National Park. Inquire at any concentration point about rates and schedules.

A section of the Skyline Trail.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

GENERAL, DESCRIPTIVE

ALBRIGHT, HORACE M., and TAYLOR, FRANK J. Oh, Ranger! A book about the national parks. Illustrated.

BURT, STRUTHERS. Diary of a Dude Wrangler. Charles Scribner's Sons, 1924. 331 pages.

FRYXELL, FRITIOF. The Grand Tetons, Our National Park of Matterhorns. American Forests and Forest Life, National Parks Number (August 1929). Pages 453-456.

WISTER, OWEN. The Virginian. Macmillan Co., 1902. 506 pages. (The setting for portions of this famous novel is taken from the Teton-Jackson Hole region.)

YARD, ROBERT STERLING. The Book of our National Parks. Charles Scribner's Sons, 1928. Illustrated. The Tetons on pages 227-228.

HISTORICAL

ALTER, J. CECIL. James Bridger. Shepard Book Co., Salt Lake City, 1925.

CHITTENDEN, BRIG. GEN. HIRAM MARTIN. The Yellowstone National Park. Stanford University Press, 1933 (fourth edition). Illustrated. 286 pages. The standard history of the Yellowstone region.

______ History of the American Fur Trade of the Far West. 3 Volumes. New York, 1902.

COUTANT, C. G. History of Wyoming. Volume 1. Laramie, Wyo., 1899. 712 pages. (This volume, the only one issued, contains scattered references to the region.)

DALE, HARRISON C. The Ashley-Smith Explorations. Arthur H. Clark Co., Cleveland, 1918.

FRYXELL, FRITIOF. The Story of Deadman's Bar. Annals of Wyoming, volume 5 (June 1929). Pages 128-148.

IRVING, WASHINGTON. Astoria, or Anecdotes of an Enterprise Beyond the Rocky Mountains. New York, 1836. (This classic work contains the earliest known use of the name "Tetons.")

_______. Adventures of Captain Bonneville. New York, 1837. (An important early work containing many references to the region.)

JACKSON, WILLIAM H. The Pioneer Photographer. World Book Co., 1929. The Tetons on pages 123-141. 314 pages. (An account of the Hayden surveys in the Teton Region.)

______. Address Regarding the First Photographing of the Tetons. Prepared for the Dedication of the Grand Teton National Park. Annals of Wyoming, volume 6 (July-October 1929). Pages 189-191.

PARKER, REV. SAMUEL. Journal of an Exploring Tour Beyond the Rocky Mountains. Andrus, Woodruff, and Gauntlett, Ithaca, New York (4 editions), 1844.

STONE, ELIZABETH A. Uinta County, its Place in History.

VINTON, STALLO. John Colter, Discoverer of Yellowstone Park. Edward Eberstadt, publisher, 1926. 114 pages. (Ch. 11, pp. 43-63, is a discussion of the probable crossing of the Teton Range by John Colter in 1807.)

SCIENTIFIC

BRADLEY, FRANK H.. (Geological). Report of Snake River Division. In Sixth Annual Report of the U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories (Hayden Surveys of 1872). Washington, 1873. Pages 217-223, 261-271.

BRANDEGEE, T. C. Teton Forest Reserve. In Nineteenth Annual Report, U. S. Geological Survey (for 1898), part V, Washington, 1899. Pages 191-212.

CAREY, MERRITT. Life Zone Investigations in Wyoming. North American Fauna No. 42, Biological Survey, U. S. Department of Agriculture. Washington, 1917. 95 pages.

FRYXELL, FRITIOF. Glacial Features of Jackson Hole, Wyo. Published by Augustana College, Rock Island, Ill., 1930. Illustrated. 128 pages.

______ Glacial Studies in the Tetons. Journal of Geology, Vol. XLI (1930), pp. 642- 646 and 737-747; Vol. XLIII (1935).

IDDINGS, J. P., and WEED, W. H. Descriptive Geology of the Northern End of the Teton Range. Chapter IV (pp. 149-164) of Monograph XXXII, part II, Geology of the Yellowstone National Park. U. S. Geological Survey, Washington, 1899. 893 pages.

PREBLE, EDWARD A. Report on Condition of Elk in Jackson Hole, Wyo., in 1911. Bulletin No. 40, Biological Survey, U. S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, 1911. 23 pages.

SHELDON, CHARLES. The Conservation of the Elk of Jackson Hole, Wyo. Elk Commission Report. Washington, 1927. 36 pages.

ST. JOHN, ORESTES. Report of the Geological Field Work of the Teton Division. In Eleventh Annual Report of the U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories (Hayden Surveys of 1877). Washington, 1879. Pages 321-508.

MOUNTAINEERING

The mountaineering literature on the Teton Range is voluminous and only a few references are cited here. For other articles see the files of Trail and Timberline, Bulletin of the Sierra Club, Appalachia, American Alpine Journal, Canadian Alpine Journal, etc.

ELLINGWOOD, A. R. Our American Matterhorn. Outdoor Life, volume 54 (1924). Pages 181-186.

FRYXELL, FRITIOF. The Teton Peaks and Their Ascents. Crandall Studios, Jenny Lake, Wyo., 1932. 106 pages. Illustrated (including map). (A history of mountaineering in the Tetons up to 1931, inclusive. Summarizes the known routes up each peak. Bibliography.)

______. The Ascent of Mount Owen. American Alpine Journal, 1931, pages 320-326.

HENDERSON, KENNETH A. The Grand Teton. American Alpine Journal, 1930. Pages 138-139.

OWEN, WILLIAM O. Ascent of the Grand Teton. Outing, volume 38 (1901). Pages 302-307.

UNDERHILL, ROBERT L. M. The Grand Teton by the East Ridge. The Alpine Journal (London), November 1930. Pages 267-277.

_____ Two New Routes Up the Grand Teton. The Canadian Alpine Journal, 1931. Pages 72-86.