HAWAII (comprising HAWAII VOLCANOES and HALEAKALA) Circular of General Information 1936

HAWAII
National Park

THE Hawaii National Park, in the Territory of Hawaii, was created by act of Congress August 1, 1916, and placed under the control of the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior. It is unique in that it consists of two separate tracts of land lying on different islands. The Kilauea-Mauna Loa section is located on the island of Hawaii and the Haleakala section is on the island of Maui. The total area of the park is 245 square miles. Of this, 219 square miles are in the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section and 26 in the Haleakala section.

The park was created to conserve the most representative areas of volcanic interest in the United States. Its craters, active and dormant, are among the most interesting in the entire world and even the active ones may be visited with reasonable safety.

Each section of the park is named after the volcano that is its outstanding feature. Kilauea Crater, with its fire pit has been active almost continuously since its discovery. In recent years there have been active periods about once each year. Mauna Loa, which erupts about once each 4 years has poured out more lava during the last century than any other known volcano on the globe. Haleakala, a dormant volcano, is a mountain mass 10,000 feet high with a tremendous crater rift in its summit 7 miles across and 3,000 feet deep containing many high cinder cones.

The park is also noted for its luxuriant tropical vegetation, which forms a striking contrast to the volcanic craters and barren lava flows. Gorgeous tree ferns, sandalwood, and koa, or Hawaiian mahogany, vie with the flowering ohia trees in making the park forests unusually interesting to the visitor.

OUTDOOR LIFE IN HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

The Hawaiian Islands, in addition to their scenic beauty, their unique geological and botanical appeal, offer great attractions to an increasingly large number of people who love outdoor life. The equable climate permits the enjoyment of any or all popular outdoor games and sports the year round. Riding or hiking over picturesque trails; swimming in waters which always seem to be at the desired temperature; polo; tennis; golf on sporty courses swept by cool breezes from the mountains; deer hunting; big game fishing; camping on sandy beaches; and surfing on great boards or outrigger canoes—all are there for the choosing.

Curious lava formation.

INTERESTING FEATURES

As long as the average visitor has made a trip of 2,000 miles or more to reach the islands, it is urged that he extend his stay from the usual 1 week to 2 weeks if possible. It will be time profitably spent. The national park comprises only a small part of the islands, and the entire Territory is of great interest. For instance, a tour of the island of Hawaii, where the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section of the park is located, reveals many attractions. There are lava flows of the last and the present century with the individual characteristics all plainly signed.

In the Kona district on the lee side of the island the rolling slopes of Mauna Loa and Hualalai are clothed with a dense native forest which gives place in the more settled portions to quaint villages and homes scattered among the acres of coffee bushes. The shore line is an irregular series of abrupt cliffs and level lava plains interrupted with beaches of pure white sand. The region about Kealakekua Bay is one of great historic interest. Here are found the finest examples remaining of the ancient Hawaiian temples, rock carvings, and burial caves. Here the British discoverer of the islands, Capt. James Cook, landed in 1778 and here today, by taking an outrigger canoe across beautiful Kealakekua Bay, the visitor stands beside a monument erected in his memory on the spot where he met his death. The ground on which the monument stands is British soil. The numerous bays along this coast are famous for the exciting sport they offer to the deep-sea fisherman with heavy line and reel.

On the upland ranges of North Kona and Kohala immense herds of cattle, sheep, hogs, and horses, raised for island use, may be seen. Along the Hamakua coast for 50 miles the lower slopes are covered with sugarcane and the rugged coast line is marked by sugar mills and villages.

Hawaii National Park—Kilauea Section
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Kilauea Crater and Vicinity
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KILAUEA-MAUNA LOA SECTION

KILAUEA

The most spectacular portion of the park is that including the volcano of Kilauea, usually the most active. This volcano, probably older than towering Mauna Loa, its neighbor, creates the impression of being a crater in the side of the higher mountain, although in reality it is itself a mountain with an elevation of 4,090 feet. This illusion is the result of the broad depression at its top and of its gentle slopes, caused by lava flows from many lateral vents. Within the depression is a vast pit, Halemaumau, which for years has drawn travelers from the four quarters of the earth. This pit often contains a boiling, bubbling mass of molten lava whose surface fluctuates from bottom to rim. Activities averaging at least one outbreak a year have occurred since 1924. Its risings are accompanied by brilliant fountains and inflows of liquid lava, and its lowerings by tremendous avalanches which send up enormous dust clouds.

Profile and broken-line cross section of Kilauea and the Chain-of-Craters.
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At the lookout at Makaopuhi the elevation is 2,925 feet above sea level, which is 1,165 feet below Uwekahuna museum, 1,012 feet below the Volcano House, 719 feet below the lookout at Halemaumau, and 31 feet below the top of the highest cone on the floor of Halemaumau. The deepest place in the crater (875 feet below the lookout) is at an elevation of 2,050 feet, which is 906 feet below the highest 1934 cone in Halemaumau.

Nearly a century and a half ago Kilauea became unusually active, and its violent blast of ash destroyed a Hawaiian army. From that time—1790—no rocks or ash were ejected until 1924. During the autumn of 1923 the lake of fire drained away, but gradually returned until the pit contained a 50-acre lake of seething lava. Lava geysers appeared on its surface, sending up incandescent sprays 150 feet into the air. In 1924 this lake disappeared and crumbling masses of rock fell into the smoking pit, choking the vents through which the volcanic gases had escaped. A few months later when steam blasts unexpectedly occurred, the vents were cleared by tremendous explosions hurling boulders and ash for thousands of feet into the air. The violent disturbance continued for 3 weeks, and at the end of that time the fire pit had been enlarged to four times its former size, the opening being 190 acres in area and 1,200 feet deep. A few weeks later, when all was quiet, a roaring jet of lava appeared at the bottom of the pit, sending up a steady spray 200 feet high, building up a small cinder cone, and forming a 10-acre lava lake on the floor of the pit. After giving a brilliant display for a couple of weeks the fountain subsided and the volcano became dormant. In July 1927 a similar display occurred, lasting for 2 weeks, and in January 1928 the fire returned for 1 night only. Gas and vapor rise continually.

Smoke cloud from Kilauea on first day of 1934 eruption.

During 1929 spectacular lava inflows occurred in February and July, raising the floor with new material to depths of 55 and 45 feet, respectively. The pit depth in December 1929 was 1,050 feet and the floor area 48 acres. On November 19, 1930, molten lava again appeared in Halemaumau. Activity continued until December 7. This activity raised the floor of the pit 70 feet; the surface area of the floor then covered 62 acres.

Following a series of earthquakes, molten lava broke into the bottom of Halemaumau on December 23, 1931. The activity lasted as a spectacular display until January 5, 1932. During the activity the pit was filled to a depth of 100 feet with lava, resulting in a new floor of 88 acres, which was 860 feet below the rim of the pit.

Halemaumau just before the 1932 activity ceased. Powers photo.

In the early morning of September 6, 1934, at about 2:45 a. m., without much preliminary warning, molten lava again returned to the fire pit in Kilauea. This eruption in its early stages was one of the most spectacular on record. Highly charged with gas released from tremendous pressure the frothy lava burst through a crack 700 feet long, halfway up the western wall of the crater, cascading in rivers of fire 425 feet to the floor below. The force of the lava cracked open the old floor left by the 1931-32 eruption across its northern and northwest end, and along the foot of the western wall dense clouds of sulphur fumes poured out, as the fiery fountains shot the liquid lava high into the air. As in the previous eruption, blocks of light pumice thrown out from the vents were whirled upward by the heat currents and gales of wind and deposited in shattered fragments over the land for more than a mile to leeward. In a few days the crater had been filled with new lava to a depth of 70 feet, and instead of the countless frothy fountains of the initial outbreak the activity centered in a lake of fire with from 5 to 10 fountains continuously throwing jets of heavy liquid lava from 50 to 200 feet above the lake.

Visitors may look into the fire pit in reasonable safety.

VOLCANO HOUSE

On the northeast rim and overlooking the entire crater of Kilauea stands the historic Volcano House hotel. This rambling structure, reflecting the steady growth in popularity of the volcano region as a vacation ground, was first erected about 1856. Since that date it has been in continuous operation, and its register of guests includes the names of kings, princesses, scientists, and authors among those of the thousands who have stayed there while viewing one of the most awe-inspiring spectacles on this earth.

KIPUKA PUAULU

Kipuka Puaulu, a beautiful natural park, also known as Bird Park, is an interesting feature of the Kilauea area. This kipuka or oasis has escaped encircling lava flows, and its rich black soil supports a marvelous variety of vegetation. As many as 40 species of trees grow here. This favored spot of 100 acres is the haunt of many beautiful and rare native birds. A nature trail has been established along which the rare trees are plainly marked.

A night photograph of Kilauea during the 1931 period of activity.

VOLCANO OBSERVATORY

The Volcano Observatory, formerly under the Geological Survey of the Department of the Interior, was transferred to the National Park Service July 1, 1935. This observatory, founded in 1912, is under the direction of Dr. T. A. Jaggar, who has been in charge of its work from the beginning. The Hawaiian Volcano Research Association, which originated continuous volcano study in Hawaii, has cooperated with the Federal Government through substantial contributions for instruments, buildings and equipment, as well as offering occasional research fellowships. Much valuable scientific data concerning earthquakes, tidal waves, and volcanoes are obtained here. Continuous observations are made of Kilauea, and recording instruments are located on various parts of the island as well as about the volcano.

Looking across Kilauea Iki from trail east end.

NATURALIST SERVICE

The educational service maintained by the Government is directed by the park naturalist, assisted by rangers well informed in the natural sciences. The principal features are field trips conducted throughout the year according to posted schedules, starting from the Volcano House or Kilauea Military Camp, and illustrated lectures given at Uwekahuna museum.

Requests from special parties desiring the assistance of the park naturalist or rangers are given every consideration. All park guests are welcome to avail themselves of the services of these men who are there to assist visitors in learning about the natural phenomena of the region.

UWEKAHUNA MUSEUM

The National Park Service maintains a museum and lecture hall at Uwekahuna Bluff, located on the high point of the bluff and overlooking the entire Kilauea Crater and Kau Desert. Through the medium of lectures by the park naturalist and staff members, demonstration maps and charts, motion pictures, lantern slides, exhibits of volcanic rock and formations, and an actually operating seismograph, the visitor is enabled to secure a comprehensive knowledge of volcanic action and its history in this particular area. The motion picture shown to groups visiting the museum has proved to be of exceptional value to park guests; many have remarked that it is a feature of the park tour that visitors should not miss. The picture, "The Structure of the Earth", edited and titled by the department of geology of Harvard University, shows views of several volcanoes in various parts of the world during periods of activity. A large part of the picture is devoted to views of Kilauea and its fire pit, Halemaumau, during eruptions. The views of Kilauea are so vivid that, even though one does not have an opportunity actually to see the volcano in action, the picture gives a very clear conception of Kilauea during a period of activity. The motion picture also shows diagrammatically how a great volcanic mountain is built up by the extrusion of volcanic ash, cinders, and lava flows from the interior of the earth, and how the famous lava tubes of Hawaii have been formed in the ancient flows from Kilauea and Mauna Loa.

The museum and its scientific equipment were donated by the Hawaiian Volcano Research Association, and the lecture hall is a donated structure erected from proceeds of Hui O Pele memberships.

HUI O PELE

The Hui O Pele is an organization sponsored by the Outdoor Circle of Honolulu and is composed of those who have visited the fire pit, Halemaumau, in the crater of Kilauea, the home of the fire goddess Pele, and paid due homage. The life membership fee is $1, which entitles the member to an interesting certificate of membership and a lapel button or brooch. There are more than 15,000 members of this organization scattered throughout the world. The net revenues arising from the membership fees are expended for improvements in the park for the benefit of visitors. Among the structures that have been erected are the Uwekahuna lecture hall, the Summit Rest House on Mauna Loa, and shelters at Hilina Pali, Thurston Lava Tube, Halemaumau Trail, and other points.

Mauna Loa Summit Rest House.

ROADS AND TRAILS

Thirty-nine miles of highways lie within the Kilauea area. The main roads are paved. One of the roads leads to the very brink of Halemaumau, the fire pit, a fact that establishes Kilauea as the most accessible and popular volcano in the world. The Chain-of-Craters Road, 7 miles in length, passes by nine craters that lie on the great Puna rift. There are 121 miles of trails in the area.

There are several important trails in the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section. One of the most interesting leads from the hotel to the rim of the fire pit. Its first mile winds through rich tropical vegetation down the faulted crater walls to the floor of Kilauea, then for 2 miles it follows through fantastic lava formations and crosses the area bombarded by huge boulders and fragments of lava during the 1924 eruptions.

On account of the absence of fresh-water sources, small shelters with barrels to catch the rain run-off from the roofs have been placed on trails at strategic points. Hikers on overnight trips should inform themselves as to these points, and in addition should always carry canteens of water.

Following is a list of the most popular trails in the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section. All of them are well marked, with points of interest along the way identified.

Bridle path lava tube area.

CIRCLE TRIPS BY TRAIL

MAUNA LOA

To the west of Kilauea rises the vast dome of Mauna Loa whose summit crater, Mokuaweoweo, is included in the national park as well as a broad connecting belt between the two volcanoes. Mauna Loa thrusts its great bulk 13,680 feet above the surrounding Pacific. By eruptions in its summit crater and flank outbreaks it is constantly adding to its mass.

In action Mauna Loa is even more spectacular than Kilauea; steam vents continually send feathery clouds into the air. Mokuaweoweo and Kilauea are of approximately equal size, but the former is slowly increasing its area by slumping and breaking down of its outer walls. Extending northeast and southwest from the summit are volcanic rifts with many deep rents formed by earthquake and eruption as well as many brilliantly colored spatter cones some 200 feet in height. These rifts have been the source of most of the recent eruptions, though the summit crater is also frequently active.

In 1868 a particularly violent outbreak showered the surrounding country for 15 miles with ash and pumice. Near the source of the eruption the ash was 15 inches deep.

After a period of dormancy from 1919, in the spring of 1926 a great flow from Mauna Loa occurred, preceded by jarring earthquakes. The flow commenced with a spectacular outbreak from a crack extending more than a mile southwest from the summit crater and lasted about 9 hours. For 3 days following the mountain was continually shaken by earthquakes until the main flow developed about 13 miles farther down the southwest flank. This main flow lasted nearly 2 weeks, was "aa" in type, about 1,500 feet wide and 30 feet deep. Progressing slowly, like a great snake it wound its way seaward, destroying in its path the little fishing village of Hoopuloa. As the lava struck the sea there was a hissing sound followed by a roar as jets of pebbles and clouds of sand were thrown up by violent steam explosions. It was a never-to-be-forgotten sight for those fortunate enough to witness it.

The summit crater of Mauna Loa was active for 16 days in December 1933. During the activity the new lava covered an area of more than a square mile to a depth of as much as 100 feet in places. Two great cinder cones were built up at the source fountains. The glowing smoke columns from the eruption vents were visible from the hills behind Honolulu.

Spectacular and violent as these outbreaks are, they are not dangerous, for there are always plenty of time and opportunity for onlookers to get to places of safety. In fact, a volcanic eruption in Hawaii is cause for rejoicing rather than fear, as everyone rushes to the scene of the spectacle. Mauna Loa has averaged activities once in 4 years since 1832.

Mokuaweoweo Crater Summit of Mauna Loa in winter.

MAUNA LOA TRIP

From the Kilauea area to the summit crater of Mauna Loa and return is a distance of about 50 miles, and the trip can be made in 3 days, either riding or hiking. It is customary to leave the hotel at Kilauea on horseback in the morning, riding about 16 miles over the lava to a resthouse set in a cinder cone, called "Puu Ulaula" or "Red Hill", at the 10,000-foot elevation. The night is spent here and the next day the 18-mile walk or ride to the top and back is made. The second night is spent at the resthouse and the next day the return to Kilauea is made. If one desires, it is now possible to remain in the new Hui o Pele Shelter at the summit of the mountain.

On this journey the air is rare and cool, the view superb and unrestricted for miles around. Wild goats are encountered on the trip. Beautiful lava specimens, with the sparkle of gold and silver and varicolored brilliants, may be seen on the way.

All persons intending to make the ascent of Mauna Loa should first register at park headquarters and secure permission to use the resthouses.

Haleakala Crater
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HALEAKALA SECTION

The Haleakala section of the Hawaii National Park, on the Island of Maui, contains one of the world's largest extinct volcanoes. The mountain derives its name, which in Hawaiian means "House of the Sun", from an exploit of the great Polynesian demigod Maui. Native legends tell that Maui climbed to the top of Haleakala, ensnared the rays of the sun and forced it to travel more slowly in its course so that his mother might have sufficient time to complete her day's work. Protected inviolate in the park are many remains of ancient Hawaiian occupation of the crater and areas known to have been sacred.

Haleakala, which now rises to a height of 10,032 feet from sea level, was once a much higher mountain. A collapse of the dome many years ago formed a great crater 7-1/2 miles long and 3 miles wide, with walls over 1,000 feet high. Within these gorgeously colored walls lies a superb volcanic spectacle. Covering the floor are giant red, black, and orange cinder cones which, though hundreds of feet high, are dwarfed by the immensity of their surroundings. The crater has a circumference of 21 miles and an area of 19 square miles.

Silversword in flower, Haleakala.

After the collapse of the dome volcanic activity continued and many lava flows, some of recent appearance, have poured out from vents in the crater. Explosion has scattered ash, cinder, and debris over the landscape and probably was the cause of the two great gaps in the crater walls at the southeast and northwest corners of the crater. At the head of these gaps are lovely grassy meadows where from the overtowering walls flow springs of pure water. These meadows are dotted with clumps of native trees and are altogether ideal spots for camping. Tanks to gather and store the water from the mountain springs have been erected at different points in the crater.

On the walls and within the crater grows the rare silversword plant. It is a large spherical herb with narrow leaves which gleam like polished silver. The life cycle of this plant is not fully known but only once does it flower, producing on a stalk two to four feet high a gorgeous mass of purple blossoms. After the seeds have matured the entire plant dies.

Cinder cones and clouds in the Crater of Haleakala. U.S. Geological Survey photo.

While the western slope of Haleakala and a large part of the interior of the crater are arid and vegetation is scarce, the eastern slopes, where the rainfall is heavy, support a rich plant life. Much of this dense forest region is still virgin and unexplored. Among its many species of plants are large-leafed ape-ape, the greensword, which resembles the silversword and a peculiar geranium found only on Haleakala.

A paved highway runs from the port of Kahului to the summit of Haleakala. This road, constructed jointly by the Territory of Hawaii and the National Park Service, cost over a million dollars. It was formally dedicated on February 23, 1935, and it is now possible to reach the summit in less than 2 hours, where the National Park Service has constructed a glass-enclosed observation station and other facilities. There are 27 miles of improved trails in the crater, some of which can hardly be surpassed in the spectacular quality of views offered along the way.

The beauty of the sunset and sunrise on Haleakala is unforgettable. If fortunate, the visitor at sunset may be privileged to witness the Brocken Specter, a great shadow image, which is really that of the person viewing it. The shadow is usually surrounded by a single halo or rainbow, although as many as seven have been seen.

Sunset on Haleakala. Copyright, Tai Sing Loo.