HAWAII (comprising HAWAII VOLCANOES and HALEAKALA) Circular of General Information 1936

COMMON TREES AND SHRUBS

Animal life in Hawaii National Park is scarce, but the scarcity of fauna is more than offset by floral abundance, and the student of botany will find much to interest him from the coconut groves of the coast to the stunted ohia trees near the timberline of Mauna Loa. Particular attention is directed to the tropical vegetation in the Fern Jungle through which the road to the volcano passes; many of the giant ferns are 40 feet high, with single fronds 25 feet long arching gracefully over the highway. By walking only a few yards back into this jungle one easily gets the impression of being back in a prehistoric era when the entire earth was covered with plants of similar appearance. In the damp forest regions and throughout the region along trails and open spaces oheloberries grow in abundance.

AALII.—A shrub growing abundantly in the vicinity of Kilauea. The plants are rarely over 6 feet high. In season they produce red-winged capsules which were once used as a source of red dye.

ALANI.—The various species of alani were given the generic name pelea in honor of the Hawaiian goddess of fire, Pele. The tree is a member of the orange or citrus family and can be distinguished by the citrus odor of the leaves. Because of this pleasing odor, the leaves were used to perfume kapa.

AKIA.—The fruit of the akia is very similar in general appearance to the oheloberry but has a single seed in place of numerous seeds as found in the ohelo. It should not be eaten because of a poisonous property which was utilized by the Hawaiians as a fish poison.

AMAUMAU FERN.—The most common fern in the park. It grows on a trunk 1 to 5 feet high with fronds 2 to 3 feet long.

HAPUU, TREE FERN.—Distinguished by its soft, yellow, glossy hair, or pulu, used for stuffing pillows and mattresses.

HAPU III, TREE FERN.—The larger tree fern with stiff, long, reddish hair on the leaf stems.

ILIAHI, SANDALWOOD.—Attains a height of 25 feet; thin leaves overcast with a whitish bloom; the blossoms occur in densely flowered panicles; wood very hard and heavy, with fragrant heart wood.

KOA, HAWAIIAN MAHOGANY.—The stateliest tree in Hawaii; readily recognized by its sickle-shaped leaves and large, symmetrical crown when growing in the open. The true compound leaf is found on the young trees and sprouts. Used by the Hawaiians in making dug-out canoes and surf boards; now used in making ukeleles and furniture on account of the beautiful grain. A magnificent specimen with trunk 10 feet in diameter was preserved when a lava flow stopped within 20 feet of it.

KOLEA.—The Hawaiians used the sap from the kolea tree as the base for a red dye, while the wood was used for beams and posts in building houses.

MAILE.—Hawaiians used maile in lei making. The maile lei was considered a symbol of high respect and also a signal for an armistice in times of war.

MAMAKE, PAPER MULBERRY.—A small tree with rough leaves, usually with prominent red veins and stalks. The Hawaiians made their tapa or paper cloth from the inner bark of this tree.

MAMANI.—A sturdy tree with compound leaves belonging to the pea family; bright-yellow pealike blossoms; rough, corky pod, deeply constricted between the seeds; rough bark on the older trees; wood very durable, making excellent fence posts but so hard that a special staple must be used.

MANELE, SOAPBERRY.—The manele is one of the few indigenous trees that sheds its leaves annually. The seeds have been used in bead-lei making.

NAIO, FALSE SANDALWOOD.—When the Hawaiians exhausted the available supply of sandalwood in the Chinese trade, they attempted to substitute naio which has a similar odor and appearance; however, this substitution was soon discovered.

NAUPAKA.—The naupaka is an interesting case in plant evolution. Near the sea is found the species that originally migrated to Hawaii. In the lowland area is found another white-flowered species, while the common species on the mountain slopes has a purple flower, and the species near the mountain tops has a yellow flower.

OHELO, NATIVE HUCKLEBERRY.—Small shrub with inconspicuous flowers and red and yellowberries which are excellent for pies; very plentiful around Kilauea Crater. The Hawaiians believed these berries were especially popular with the fire goddess Pele.

OHIA, OHIA LEHUA.—The most plentiful tree in the islands, varying greatly in size and character of its leaves. Has a scaly bark and produces a very hard, close-grained wood suitable for beams and railroad ties. Easily identified by its brilliant scarlet pompon blossoms.

PAINIU.—The cellophane-like covering of the leaves of the painiu was used by the Hawaiians as decorative material in lei making and in hula skirts.

PAPALA KEPAU.—The seeds of the papala kepau are enclosed in a capsule heavily coated with a very sticky substance. This glue-like material was used as bird lime to catch the small birds whose feathers were used in making feather cloaks.

PUKEAWE, HAWAIIAN HEATHER.—A common shrub or small tree bearing small, stiff leaves, and showy clusters of small white, pink or dark redberries.

ULUHI, FALSE STAGHORN FERN.—A comparatively small-leaf fern of vine and bush character found all through the park as a tangled mass among the ohia trees and undergrowth.

WAWAEIOLE, RATS FOOT.—An interesting, low-growing club moss which has taken its common name from the manner in which its leaves resemble the grouped toes of a rat. Color is yellowish green and plant is found usually in the thickest of the undergrowth along the trail side in some sections of the park.

Fern Forest Road.

NATIVE HAWAIIAN BIRDS

The park is a sanctuary for wildlife of every sort. The following list gives the names of several of the different native species:

Akekeke, turnstone, Arenaria interpres. White on head, rump, throat, and belly; same habits as the Kolea. Length, 9 inches.

Akepa, Loxops coccinea. Small; fox-red or orange; female, green; partial to Koa forests. Length, 4.5 inches.

Akiapolaau, Heterorhynchus wilsoni. Olive green and yellow; taps on wood like woodpecker. Length, 5.7 inches.

Alala, Corvus hawaiiensis. Crow; black, noisy. Length, 19 inches.

Amakihi, Chlorodepanis virens. Olive green, short, slightly curved beak: male, almost yellow; sips nectar and searches for insects in foliage. Length, 4.5 inches.

Apapani or Akakani, Himatoine sanguinea. Dark red, black feet and bill. Length, 5.2 inches.

Elepaio, Chasiempis sandvicensis. Brown, wrenlike flycatcher; friendly; spread tail and drooping wings; named from its song. Length, 5.6 inches.

Iiwi, Vestiaria coccinea. Scarlet curbed bill; young, black spotted in color, gradually changing. Length, 5.8 inches.

Io, Buteo solitarius. Hawk; plumage varies, some birds very dark, others light, almost white. Length, 16 inches.

Koae, Phaethon lepturus. White tropic bird; two long feathers in tail; inhabits Kilauea Crater. Length, 30 inches.

Kolea, golden plover, Charudrius dominicus fulvus. Migrates to Alaska about May 1, returns in August.

Mana, Oreomyza mana. Olive green creeper; searches for insects on trunks and limbs of trees; never touches honey. Length, 4.5 inches.

Nene, Nesochen sandvicensis. Goose, black throat.

Omu, Phaeornis obscura. Thrush; olive brown, shading to white underneath; berry feeder; jerky song; habits of shaking its wings while perching and of circling about top of tree. Length, 7 inches.

Ou, Psittacirostra psittacea. Olive green with yellow head; stocky, grosbeak. Length, 6.2 inches.

Pueo, Asio accipitrinus, sandvicensis. Short-eared owl; flies around in daytime. Length, 14 inches.

NOTE.—Authority for names used is "Key to the Birds of the Hawaiian Group", W. A. Bryan, Bishop Museum Press, Honolulu.

In Darwin's work on evolution he made a special study of the animal life on several isolated island groups. He found that the land birds, although closely related to the birds of the nearest continental land mass, had undergone changes due to their isolation, developing entirely new species. On the other hand, the sea birds that intermingled freely with sea birds from other parts of the world showed little change.

The bird life of the Hawaiian Islands bears out these findings. For example, quoting from the 14th edition of Encyclopaedia Britannica, "A striking example of bird evolution is found in the songbird family (Drepandidae) with 60 species all peculiar to Hawaii", whereas many of the species of sea birds are the same as found elsewhere.

ADMINISTRATION

The park is administered by the Department of the Interior through the National Park Service, with a superintendent, Edward G. Wingate, in immediate charge. The administrative center is in the Kilauea area.

All complaints, suggestions, and requests for information should be addressed to the superintendent, whose post-office address is Hawaii National Park, Territory of Hawaii.

The superintendent's representative on the island of Maui, in charge of the Haleakala section, is District Ranger J. A. Peck, whose office is located near the entrance to the park on the Haleakala Road.

PUBLIC AUTOMOBILE CAMPS

Two public automobile camps, where motorists may obtain free wood and water, have been established. Shelter buildings, picnic grounds, fireplaces, and other conveniences are provided.

ARMY CAMP

In the Kilauea section is a recreation camp established for the use of the officers and enlisted men of the United States Army. Each year thousands of service men spend their vacations at the Kilauea Military Camp.

HOW TO REACH THE PARK

The gateway to Hawaii, including the national park, is Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, known as the "Crossroads of the Pacific." Here the principal trans-Pacific steamship lines converge. It is the capital of the Territory of Hawaii, and is its largest city, with a population of over 130,000. It is a cosmopolitan place, with a western atmosphere and every modern improvement. Owing to a climate that varies but a few degrees the year round, there is always an abundance of beautiful tropical flowers.

TRANSPORTATION

Vessels of three steamship lines make Hilo, on the island of Hawaii, a regular port of call. The Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co. operates modern steamers between Honolulu and Hilo twice each week. The minimum time required for the round-trip excursion from Honolulu to the Kilauea section of the park is 2 nights and 1 day, but the most popular trip is that requiring 2 days and 3 nights with 1 night spent in the park. Either trip is available on any steamship line or combination of lines. Nearly all world-cruise liners stop at Hilo. Longer stops are of course an advantage for complete enjoyment.

The vessels of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha South America West Coast Line stop at Hilo, 1 day after leaving Honolulu, en route from the Orient to South America via San Francisco, service approximately every 5 weeks.

The park may also be approached through ports on the west coast of Hawaii, which are served by steamers of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co.

Passenger airplanes are now operated by the Inter-Island Airways between all the islands, in both directions, daily except Sunday.

Transportation for the trip to Hawaii National Park from Hilo is always available at moderate rates. Automobiles are to be had at Hilo at all times, and motor cars meet each steamer. Automobiles may be hired at the Volcano House at reasonable rates for special trips in and around the crater and the park.

A fine motor highway connects Hilo and the Kilauea portion of Hawaii National Park, a distance of 30 miles.

Saddle horses may also be obtained from nearby ranches and the Volcano House.

Several of the larger western railroads operate escorted tours to Hawaii in connection with trips to some of the western national parks and Pacific coast points of interest.

The tour way is an easy and comfortable method of visiting the parks, as all arrangements are made in advance. The total cost of the trip is included in the all-expense rate charged, and the escort in charge of each party attends to the handling of tickets, baggage, and other travel details. This is an especially satisfactory mode of travel for the inexperienced traveler or for one traveling alone. The escort, in addition to taking care of the bothersome details of travel, also assists the members of his party to enjoy the trip in every way possible.

Full information concerning these escorted tours may be obtained by writing to passenger traffic managers of the railroads serving the various national parks.

AIRPLANE SERVICE

Inter-Island Airways, Ltd., with amphibian service from Honolulu to the islands of Maui and Hawaii, operates daily, except Sunday. One can leave Honolulu after breakfast and be on Maui in 1 hour and 15 minutes and on Hawaii in 2 hours and 30 minutes.

TRIP TO KILAUEA-MAUNA LOA SECTION

The 222-mile trip from Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, to Kilauea Volcano, on the island of Hawaii, can be made by sea or air to the city of Hilo. As the visitor approaches Hilo, whether by boat or by plane, the view along the Hamakua coast is one of great beauty and interest. From the sea, one sees in the foreground the rugged and abrupt shore line with whitecapped waves and surf beating against the cliffs, while the greens of the sugarcane fields and forests of the higher region make an interesting contrast, the background sloping up to the summit of Mauna Kea, the highest mountain in the Pacific.

This is the windward side of the island, where the rainfall is heavy and the topography has been eroded into many deep gorges. During rainy periods, a great quantity of water flows from this area, and in many places beautiful waterfalls are to be seen, some of them falling directly into the ocean.

Hilo, the "Crescent City", with a population of about 20,000, is the county seat of the island of Hawaii and the second largest city in the Territory. The town is exquisitely situated, with the placid waters of Hilo Bay at its front door and majestic Mauna Kea rising to an elevation of 13,784 feet in the background. The top of this mountain during the winter months is usually capped with snow and tinged with rosy hues from the first rays of the morning sun.

Entrance to the city is along an hibiscus-lined street. Nearby points of interest are the Rainbow Falls and Boiling Pots of the Wailuku River. Along the Hamakua coast a railway tunnels the headlands and bridges the gulches of this rugged coast, providing a trip of unusual scenic interest. Onomea Arch and Akaka Falls are other points of interest in this area. Flowers are to be seen everywhere during the entire year.

If time permits, the visitor should make the circuit trip of the island by automobile, through the cane fields and plantation towns of the Hamakua district, the famous Parker Ranch, and the historic Kona region, and from there to Hawaii National Park. Side trips may be taken to the City of Refuge at Honaunau and to Napoopoo, where a canoe trip can be made across Kealakekua Bay to see the monument to Captain Cook, discoverer of the islands. In the cliffs above the bay are many caves, where the remains of Hawaiian royalty are supposed to be buried.

On the west and south sides of the island the visitor passes over numerous old and new lava flows from Mauna Loa. The site of the little fishing village of Hoopuloa, destroyed by the lava flow of 1926, can be seen by taking a side trip.

For those whose time does not permit a complete round-the-island trip, requiring 3 or 4 days, a 1- or 2-day visit to the park can be arranged.

The most popular way to visit the park is in automobiles, which receive visitors at the steamer landing and an hour later deposit them at the edge of the crater of Kilauea. The ride is over smooth, paved roads, bordered by tropical flowers, and forests of ohia and lofty fern trees on either side. Thirty miles from Hilo the first sight of Kilauea's crater is obtained. Along the way are fields of sugarcane, and here and there banana, papaia, and breadfruit trees. Several plantation towns are passed en route, and the ohia forests with their scarlet pompon blossoms and tree ferns growing among them always interest visitors.

From Olaa, about 9 miles from Hilo on the volcano road, a road branches off to the famous Kalapana district, where there is a beach of black sand fringed with coconut trees. Here may be seen a cave of refuge, lava trees, and warm springs. There are a number of Hawaiian families living in this region under primitive conditions.

TRIP TO HALEAKALA SECTION

The trip to Haleakala, on the island of Maui, may be made separately or in conjunction with the trip to Kilauea and Mauna Loa either in going to or returning from Hilo. There are good hotel accommodations and transportation facilities on Maui. The trip to the 10,000-foot summit may be made by automobile over the new highway in about 4 hours, where previously by motor and horseback it took 12 hours.

There are 28 miles of trails in this section. The most popular route into the crater is by way of the Sliding Sands Trail from the resthouse at the rim down to the crater floor, past cinder cones nearly a thousand feet high and the Bottomless Pit, returning by the Halemauu Trail. The round trip can be made in 1 day from the resthouse. An experienced guide is necessary.

Other spectacular points of interest on this island are Iao Valley, a green cleft of dizzy depths in the heart of tropical mountains near Wailuku, and the scenic drives around the coastline. Arrangements for saddle-horse service may be made with E. J. Walsh, manager of the Grand Hotel, Wailuku, Maui, and others.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND EXPENSES

The only hotel in the national park is the Volcano House. Located in the Kilauea-Mauna Loa section on the outer rim of Kilauea Crater, it is 4,000 feet above the sea in a cool, invigorating climate. The hotel is operated by George Lycurgus who was manager from 1904 until 1921 and who again assumed this position in 1932.

The wood fire in the fireplace of this world-known hostelry, whose history dates back to a grass house constructed about 1856, has been burning constantly for many years, sending out a warm Aloha to all.

The present structure with steam heat and hot and cold running water in the rooms is a far cry from the original grass house. All the hotel cottages are similarly equipped, and each has its individual fireplace. There are 15 rooms with shower baths available and a club room affords a comfortable place to lounge and read. A spacious veranda where regular dances are held affords a fine view of Mauna Loa and the great lava floor of Kilauea. Guests may enjoy the novel experience of steam and sulphur baths.

Rates for rooms with meals, per person, are $6 a day upward and the weekly rate for one person in a room, facing the crater is $33.50; other rooms $30. One-half rates are charged for children under 6 and three-fourths for those between 6 and 12 years of age. Special summer holiday rates as low as $21 a week, or $75 a month, make it possible for families to enjoy an extended vacation. Sulphur baths are 50 cents each.

This booklet is issued once a year, and the rates mentioned herein may have changed slightly since issuance, but the latest rates approved by the Secretary of the Interior are on file with the superintendent and the park operators.

PHOTOGRAPHY

A studio where photographic supplies of every kind may be obtained is adjacent to the Volcano House. It is operated by K. Maehara, who also maintains a laboratory for developing, printing, enlarging, coloring, and framing of pictures or lantern slides. Photographs of the park and island scenes may be obtained at prices varying from 3 cents for a snapshot to hand-painted pictures at $20.

GENERAL INFORMATION

For information regarding trips to and through the Hawaiian Islands it is suggested that prospective visitors get in touch with the Hawaii Tourist Bureau, with offices in Honolulu, Hawaii, and 215 Market Street, San Francisco, Calif. The Hawaii Tourist Bureau is an official nonprofit community-advertising and information organization.

Tours of Hawaii National Park from Honolulu may be included in the weekly excursions from the mainland conducted by the Matson Navigation Co., 215 Market Street, San Francisco; 730 South Broadway, Los Angeles; 535 Fifth Avenue, New York; 814 Second Avenue, Seattle; 230 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago; 327 SW. Pine Street, Portland, Oreg.; 119 West Ocean Boulevard, Long Beach; and 213 East Broadway, San Diego. In addition are the steamers of the Dollar Line which maintain regular service between the mainland and Honolulu. The connecting service between Honolulu and Hilo is provided twice a week by the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co. Sample schedules and rates follow:

KILAUEA-MAUNA LOA SECTION

HALEAKALA SECTION

The Haleakala section may be reached by steamer from Honolulu docking at Kahului and discharging passengers at Lahaina, and by steamers from Hilo which stop at Lahaina. Steamers for Kahului leave Honolulu Sunday and Wednesday, and for Lahaina Tuesday and Friday each week. Steamers for Lahaina leave Hilo on Wednesday and Sunday.

One of the most popular short excursions is to leave Honolulu 9 p. m. Wednesday, arrive Kahului Thursday 5:45 a. m., motor to various points of scenic interest, thence to the summit of Haleakala to view the sunset, returning to Honolulu from Kahului, and sailing at 9 p. m. Thursday. The steamer fare from Honolulu to Kahului is $11 and to Lahaina $10.

If one arrives at Hilo without previous arrangements, he may rent an automobile, with or without driver, for the trip through the Kilauea section and around the island of Hawaii. The island is encircled by an automobile road crossing recent lava flows, and it may be negotiated easily in 3 days. Retail stores, garages, post offices, and comfortable wayside inns with good meals and lodging for visitors are to be found at convenient intervals on the route.

Travelers from the United States and Canada can easily reach Hawaii in a 4-1/2- to 6-day ocean voyage on steamers of the Matson Navigation Co., leaving San Francisco for Hawaiian ports weekly; on steamers of the N. Y. K. Line, leaving for Hawaii en route to the Orient every 2 weeks (only layover passengers can use this foreign line between two American ports); on steamers of the Dollar Steamship Lines' Trans-Pacific and Round-the-World services, one every Friday for Honolulu en route to the Orient; on steamers of the Canadian-Australasian Line and Canadian Pacific Co. from Vancouver direct to Honolulu every 4 weeks.

Travelers from New Zealand may reach Hawaii on steamers of the Canadian-Australasian Line, leaving Auckland every 4 weeks; from Australia and New Zealand on steamers of the Oceanic Steamship Co., and Matson Navigation Co. agents, leaving Sydney every 4 weeks; and on those of the Canadian-Australasian Line, leaving the same port every month. Travelers from the Orient may go direct to Hawaii on steamers of the Dollar Line and American Mail Line, leaving oriental ports for Honolulu every 2 weeks; on steamers of the N. Y. K. Line, leaving at the same intervals, and on Canadian Pacific liners every 28 days.

Lava Cascades. U. S. Geological Survey photo.

REFERENCES

ALBRIGHT, HORACE M., and TAYLOR, FRANK J. Oh, Ranger! A book about the national parks.

ALEXANDER, W. D. Brief History of Hawaiian People.

BRIGHAM, WILLIAM T. Memoirs of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum. Vol. II, no. 4. The Volcanoes of Kilauea and Mauna Loa. 1909.

BRYAN, WILLIAM A. Natural History of Hawaii.

CASTLE, WILLIAM R. Hawaii Past and Present. 1926. 256 pp.

DALY, R. A. Our Mobile Earth. Charles Scribner's Sons. 1926. 342 pp.

DANA. Characteristics of Volcanoes (Textbook). 1891.

DEGENER, OTTO. Ferns and Flowering Plants of Hawaii National Park. 1930. 350 pp., 89 full-page plates. 49 figures.

DU PUY, WILLIAM A. Hawaii and Its Race Problem.

ELLIS, WILLIAM. Tour of Hawaii.

FORNANDER SERIES, or Collection of Hawaiian Antiquities and Folk Lore.

GROSVENOR, GILBERT. The Hawaiian Islands. The National Geographic Magazine for February 1924.

HAWAII TOURIST BUREAU. Near-by Hawaii. Issued for free distribution. Honolulu, Hawaii.

HILLEBRAND, WILLIAM. Flora of the Hawaiian Islands. 1888.

HITCHCOCK, C. H. Hawaii and Its Volcanoes (Honolulu Advertiser).

KANE, J. F. Picturesque America. Frederick Gumbrecht, Brooklyn, N. Y., 1935. 256 pp. Illustrated. Hawaii on pp. 243-252.

LOGAN, DANIEL. All about Hawaii. Chapple Publishing Co., Boston, Mass. 1921. 56 pp. Hawaii National Park on p. 12.

POPE, W. T. Manual of Wayside Plants of Hawaii. 1929.

ROCK, JOSEPH F. Indigenous Trees of the Hawaiian Islands. 1913. 518 pp.

ROLFE, MARY A. Our National Parks. Book Two. A supplementary reader on the national parks for fifth- and sixth-grade students. Benj. H. Sanborn & Co., Chicago. 1928. Illustrated. Hawaii National Park on pp. 73-92.

STEARNS, HAROLD T., and CLARK, WILLIAM O. Geology and Water Resources of the Kau District, Hawaii. U. S. Geological Survey Water-Supply Paper 616.

TAYLOR, ALBERT P. Under Hawaiian Skies. Advertiser Publishing Co., Honolulu, Hawaii. 1926. 607 pp.

THE VOLCANO LETTER, a monthly leaflet, published by the Hawaiian Volcano Research Association, James Campbell Building, Honolulu.

U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. Bulletins of the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory. Published by the Hawaiian Volcano Research Association.

WESTERVELT, W. D. Hawaiian Historical Legends.

WILSON, SCOTT B. Birds of the Sandwich Islands. 1890.

YARD, ROBERT STERLING. The Book of the National Parks. 1926. 444 pp., 74 illustrations, 10 maps, 4 diagrams. Hawaii begins on p. 229.