MOUNT RAINIER Trail Guide 1941

Summary Of Trail Mileages

The Wonderland Trail mileages beginning at Reflection Lake and continuing through to Indian Bar Trailside Shelter (a total of 14.4 miles) are as follows:

Reflection Lake to Nickel Creek Trailside Shelter—7.9 miles.

From Nickel Creek to Indian Bar Trailside Shelter—6.5 miles.

Things To See Along The Trail

Following the Wonderland Trail down Stevens Canyon from Reflection Lake, the hiker traverses meadows in an old burn. This is huckleberry country of note, for here in early times the Indians used to gather great quantities of the tasty fruit. This section is also a land of lakes, with Reflection, Louise, Bench, and Snow Lakes all offering fishing, plus picturesque settings amidst the rough and rugged beauty of the peaks in the Tatoosh Range.

As the trail loses elevation down Stevens Canyon, one finds the huckleberry bushes giving way to dense trail-bordering shrubs of many kinds, with alder predominating. In the creek which flows from Bench and Snow Lakes is Martha Falls. The trail crosses the creek just below the falls. About a mile farther down is Sylvia Falls in Stevens Creek.

Five and a half miles from Reflection Lake the hiker crosses Stevens Creek on a husky rustic bridge. Below him the creek roars along in a narrow canyon. From this, the lowest elevation on this section of the Wonderland Trail (approximately 2,730 feet), the hiker climbs up over a sandy ridge where in summertime the heat is sometimes oppressive as contrasted with the usually cool temperatures of the higher, more open sections of trail. A mile and a quarter from the Stevens Creek Bridge is another bridge much like the former in rustic construction, but it is over a far deeper canyon. This is the Box Canyon of the Cowlitz River, a remarkable gorge approximately 200 feet deep and 20 feet wide. By standing on the bridge across Box Canyon one may alternately gaze at the distant, yet distinct, snow and ice cap of the 14,408-foot summit of Mount Rainier and then down 200 feet to the muddy roaring stream known as the Muddy Fork of the Cowlitz River. Just across the canyon is a small, rocky area which, in the spring, blooms with a great profusion of colorful flowers. At this time of year it is nature's rock garden supreme, but later in the summer the floral show is all gone, for the soil is shallow and dries rapidly. The hiker who likes to eat wild strawberries may, in spring, find this spot a place of rich potentialities.

From Box Canyon to Nickel Creek is 2 miles. Here there is a ranger patrol cabin and a trailside shelter. Nickel Creek flows nearby. The water is usually clear, since its source is in snowbanks instead of active rock-grinding glaciers.

Leaving Nickel Creek, the hiker follows a trail which traverses the heavily wooded slopes until it reaches the top at Cowlitz Divide. Here there is a branch trail leading to Ohanapecosh and the southeastern section of Mount Rainier National Park. Taking the more arduous route, the Wonderland Trail from this point continues up and up until one comes into open country. From various spots along the trail, good views are to be had of "The Mountain," as well as of waterfalls and cascades coming from the glaciers of this section. Clear days will reveal distant views of the main range of the Cascades and of Mount Adams to the south.

Four and a half miles from Cowlitz Divide is Indian Bar Trailside Shelter, a modern shelter cabin made of stone with a fireplace in it and bunks that are attached to the walls. Just before reaching Indian Bar the hiker is surprised to see below him and east of the trail a swampy area with several little lakes of peculiar shape. In the distance to the east is the Cascade Crest country through which runs the famous Cascade Crest Trail. The crest forms the eastern boundary of Mount Rainier National Park.

Other Trails Of The Ohanapecosh Section

Three Mile Loop Trail

Beginning at the bridge across the Ohanapecosh River in the Ohanapecosh Campground is a short, easily walked trail which gives the hiker some interesting views of the big trees of this section. The trees along the trail are characteristic of elevations from 2,000 to 3,000 feet. There are many fine specimens of western hemlock, western red cedar, and Douglas fir. Salal and Oregon grape are found in low bluffs along this section.

Halfway over the trail is beautiful Silver Falls in the Ohanapecosh River. By following the loop trail from Silver Falls back toward the campgrounds one passes through the Ohanapecosh Hot Springs development where lodge and cabin accommodations as well as facilities for hot mineral baths are available. From here to the starting point is but a short distance.

Trial Up Ohanapecosh Creek

This trail follows for the most part fairly close to Ohanapecosh River on the west side. It is a 7.1 mile hike from the junction of this trail with the Three Mile Loop Trail near Silver Falls up to the Deer Creek Trailside Shelter. Fishermen will find many deep holes in the Ohanapecosh River where may live the "granddaddy" of all the trout.

Approximately 6 miles up the trail is Stafford Falls, which pours into a large, deep, rock-rimmed pool. All along the trail the hiker who enjoys forestry will be delighted at the fine tree specimens characteristic of the Transition Zone. Occasional Douglas fir as large as 10 feet in diameter are seen. They tower in straight grandeur to approximately 300 feet. There are spots of vine maple on old rock slides and burned or old slide areas reforesting with heavy Douglas fir reproduction. At trailside shelter where Deer and Kotsuck Creek join Chinook Creek, the fisherman is bewildered by a plentiful supply of likely streams. The Deer Creek Shelter is just a short below the new East Side from Ohanapecosh to Cayuse Pass.

Laughing Water Creek Trail

This trail leads from low elevations the Ohanapecosh section to the high country along the eastern park boundary and to the Cascade Crest Trail. Since there are no regular National Park Service shelters in this area, the hiker should inquire at the Ohanapecosh Ranger Station regarding trail conditions before venturing far in this section of the park or adjacent Forest Service areas.

Cowlitz Divide Trail

A trail (4.2 miles long) connecting with the Wonderland Trail at Cowlitz Divide and starting from the Three Mile Loop Trail in the Ohanapecosh area. This trail follows through forest areas similar to those described along other trails throughout the Ohanapecosh section. It rises from an elevation of about 2,300 to 4,760 feet where it joins the Wonderland Trail at Cowlitz Divide.

Shriner Peak Lookout Trail

This sandy trail (4.2 miles long) leads from the new East Side Road to the Shriner Peak Fire Lookout. It is a dusty, hot hike in summer, most of the route being through a badly burned area where there is no shade. The ramifying ills caused by forest fires are well exemplified along this trail.

OHANAPECOSH SECTION OF THE WONDERLAND TRAIL (SECTION 3)
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