MOUNT RAINIER Trail Guide 1941

Summary Of Trail Mileages

From Indian Bar Trailside Shelter to Yakima Park, via the Wonderland Trail, is 14.6 miles. Indian Bar to Panhandle Gap is 3 miles; Panhandle Gap to Summer Land Trailside Shelter, 2.4 miles; Summer Land to the intersection of the trail with the White River Road, 4.6 miles; and from this point via the White River Campground to Yakima Park is another 4.6 miles. From Yakima Park to Mystic Lake is 9.5 miles, making a total of 24.1 miles of Wonderland Trail in the Yakima Park section.

Things To See Along The Trail

After leaving Indian Bar the Wonderland Trail climbs steadily from about 5,000 to 7,000 feet. It follows above timber line through alpine meadows and up in Arctic-Alpine Zone country where the hiker encounters rocky stretches and occasional snowbanks. Along the way are imposing views of waterfalls, rough reaches of volcanic rock, glaciers both large and small, and above all the towering snow mass of "The Mountain that was God." It is wild country, primitive and unspoiled by man's touch. Seldom does anyone see mountain lions in Mount Rainier National Park, even though the park is a wildlife sanctuary for all kinds of animals, yet occasional tracks have been authoritatively reported from along this section of the Wonderland Trail.

When Panhandle Gap is reached, the entire broad expanse of Fryingpan Glacier is revealed. At its feet are many curious things. There is a little lake that appears pea-green in color. Nearby is an area of very red volcanic rock; so red, in fact, that the small stream running across these rocks picks up eroded red sediments coloring the water brick red.

The 2.4 miles from Panhandle Gap to the Summer Land Trailside Shelter are over rough, rocky country similar to that which the hiker has traversed from Indian Bar. The contrast of grassy, flower-filled meadows and alpine trees in the Summer Land section is a welcome change.

From Summer Land the trail starts down again, giving the hiker, in a short time, all the contrast in scenery from glaciers and rocks, through meadows, timber-line country, and the deep forest of the lower elevations.

Across from Summer Land is Goat Island Mountain. Careful scrutiny of this area will often be rewarded by the sight of mountain goats.

Along Fryingpan Creek the hiker glimpses the rugged spires of Cowlitz Chimneys and the snow and ice fields of the Sarvent Glaciers. From Summer Land Trailside Shelter to the intersection of the White River Road is 4.6 miles, but since it is all definitely down, one covers the distance in a very short time. At the road the Wonderland Trail is swallowed for about 3 miles by a modern highway. The trail is picked up again at the White River Campground from where it twists up the ridge to beautiful Yakima Park, a developed area with a ranger station, museum, campgrounds, store, and cabins. From this high park area on Rainier's northeast flanks may be had many unmatched views of "The Mountain." Here, as nowhere else, is Mount Rainier's entire truncated top visible. Yakima Park is the center for many good hikes which are briefly described later.

From Yakima Park the Wonderland Trail follows the Sourdough Ridge Trail to Frozen Lake and from there along a Government service road until it branches, heading off across the open meadow country. Then down it goes to the snout of the Winthrop Glacier. Just before the hiker crosses the wooden bridge over the West Fork of the White River, the trail is completely covered by an overhang of alders—a cool, wet spot where drinking the clear, icy water is a real treat. From this section of the trail splendid views may be had of the ice walls at the end of the Winthrop Glacier. Below the ice, muddy waters emerge to give birth to another river. On warm days one notes the dynamic action of erosion and glacial recession. Rocks and slides fall off the ice faces. In the muddy stream is heard the grinding of rocks as they are pushed along by the power of the water. One vividly and forcibly becomes aware that glaciers are living, moving bodies of ice.

Past the terminus of the glacier the trail follows over a terminal (end) moraine. Then it leads into spruce, hemlock, and fir forests, and across two streams, one clear and one muddy. Nine and five-tenths miles from Yakima Park is Mystic Lake. There is a trailside shelter here.

Other Trails Of The Yakima Park Section

Northern Loop Trail

From Yakima Park to Lake James via this trail is 8 miles. The trail takes the hiker through a wilderness area of wide, flat, grassy parks, heavy forests, many lakes, and interesting rock outcroppings and formations such as Yellowstone Cliffs and the Natural Bridge.

From Yakima Park the trail follows the Sourdough Ridge Trail to Frozen Lake. All through this section of trail are good picture possibilities of Mount Rainier. The hiker passes Frozen Lake and Lodi Springs, both part of the Yakima Park water system. From this latter point virtually all signs of civilization are left behind. For a time the trail follows through alternating meadows and alpine tree groups. The crystal-clear water of Lodi Creek is not far off.

Just before one comes out into the great open expanse of Grand Park fine views may be had of the West Fork of the White River far below, and up from it "The Mountain." The symmetrical side of Mount Fremont, on whose top perches a fire lookout station, is likewise well viewed. The trail then skirts the edge of the greatest open, almost flat, meadowland in the entire park. This is known as Grand Park. Branching from the Northern Loop Trail is the Lake Eleanor Trail.

After leaving Grand Park the Northern Loop Trail zigzags down the slope toward the West Fork of the White River. Part of the way is through heavy reproduction in an old burn. White pine, Alaska cedar, mountain hemlock, and Douglas fir are all noted. Where the trail crosses the river at lower elevations a few large cottonwood trees are successfully living. Characteristic of low-elevation-stream valley sections is this short stretch of trail flanked by thorny devilsclub, large Douglas fir, and western red cedar. Interesting fungi growths of many colors are seen.

Up again through hemlock and fir, past a small pond full of big waterlilies, past huge moss-covered boulders and small meadows where Columbian black-tailed deer may often be seen, and then at the 12-mile marker, Lake James Trailside Shelter. Lake James and Lake Ethel both offer fishing possibilities.

Huckleberry Creek Trail

For the fisherman, this trail is "tops," for it follows in general along a creek whose falls, rocks, deep holes, and log-jammed pools make ideal fishing water. However, it is quite a long trip to fish much of the stream and there are no public shelters in this area. Down Huckleberry Creek Trail to the park boundary is 8.5 miles. From here it is about another 8 miles to the White River Road.

From Yakima Park the Huckleberry Trail drops from an elevation of 6,400 to about 3,000 feet at the park boundary. This drop in elevation gives the hiker a great range of plant and animal life to observe in the various zones, extending from alpine parks to thick timber and junglelike growths of alder, vine maple, devilsclub, and vines along stream banks at lower elevations.

Lake Eleanor Trail

This is a 3.3-mile trail branching, from the Northern Loop Trail in Grand Park. It is an easy-to-walk trail, with much of its length in the open country of Grand Park. Lake Eleanor is in a pocket among the trees. It is well stocked with trout. In the Grand Park area bears and deer may often be seen. Where the trail leaves the Grand Park open country and dips into the trees one is instantly aware of being in a new land—a land of century-old trees covered with gray lichens which look like moss hanging from the branches. Barring the unfortunate incident of running across a hornet's nest, the hiker reaches Lake Eleanor in good spirits, there to enjoy fishing, picture taking, or the quiet peace of an isolated lake amid pleasant woods and hills.

Hidden Lakes Trail

This 3.5-mile trail starts from the Yakima Park Road at the big turn which is known as the Sunrise Point Parking Area. It might well be dubbed the "trail of many lakes" for along its course are numerous lakes, chief among which are Clover Lake, Hidden Lakes, and two unnamed lakes at the headwaters of Lost Creek. The hiker will find this trail one of the most pleasant in the Yakima Park section. It is not a long trail nor a steep one except in a few spots. Its elevation varies only from about 6,200 feet at the start to 5,900 feet where it ends. Meadows, lakes, and flowers; glimpses of deer and bears; huckleberries; fishing; subalpine forests; fantastic forms of the wide-spreading white bark pine; chipmunks and ground squirrels; hawks flying overhead; rare picture possibilities; high ridges; and a creek called Lost Creek, since it vanishes in a huge rock slide to reappear farther down below the slide—all these are things to enjoy as you hike the Hidden Lakes Trail.

Burroughs Mountain Trail and The Rim Trail

Several loop trails in the Yakima Park section are available. For those who want to get above all trees and most vegetation, to get the "feel" of the high country or mountain climbing and the unobstructed views of glaciers and Mount Rainier, these trails beckon. The Rim Trail makes a loop of 5 miles beginning at Yakima Park, following the Sourdough Trail to Frozen Lake, and then the Burroughs Mountain Trail to the junction of the Rim Trail and back to Yakima Park.

If one is more adventuresome and wants a longer circle trip, there is a trail that continues over Burroughs Mountain, then down into Glacier Basin to the old Storbo Mining Camp, and from there down the White River past the snout of the Emmons Glacier, ending at White River Campground, 7.5 miles from Yakima Park.

Along this trail is all the variety of scenery that one can desire. The hungry hiker may run across areas where the "black caps" (wild raspberries) are found. The bird lover will enjoy the many species of birds—from the pipits of the bare, rocky areas to the chickadees in the forests and the occasional solitaire thrush heard or observed along the streams. Below Storbo Camp are some good specimens of Engelmann spruce, a tree that is not very common within the boundaries of Mount Rainier National Park. At White River Campground the trail joins the automobile road to the campground and also the trail to Yakima Park from the campground.

Owyhigh Lakes Trail

Though there are no fish in Owyhigh Lakes, the hike to them is along a good trail from which many views of rugged Governor's Ridge may be had. Mountain goats are often seen. From a divide above Owyhigh Lakes the trail follows down Kotsuck Creek until it reaches Deer Creek Trailside Shelter just a short distance from the new East Side Highway. In the fall there is much color along sections of the Owyhigh Lakes Trail, with the vivid reds of the huckleberries, vine maple, and mountain-ashberries all vying for top honors. The Owyhigh Lakes Trail is 8.8 miles long.

Information regarding the following short hikes in the Yakima Park vicinity may be obtained at the Ranger Station: Rim trail to Shadow Lake, Dege Peak Trail, trail to Mount Fremont Fire Lookout, local nature trails, etc.

YAKIMA PARK SECTION OF THE WONDERLAND TRAIL (SECTION 4)
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