ITINERARY
The section house called Harper (see sheet 10, p. 62) is built on a sandy shale in which have been found numerous fossil shells of Cretaceous marine mollusks. In the deep rock cut just west of the station may be seen a bed of coal about 3 feet 6 inches thick. This coal thickens toward the southwest, where it has been mined to some extent for local use. Pine Ridge, so named because of a few scrubby piñons, or nut pines, that grow on the sandstone cliffs, consists of a light-gray cliff making sandstone that forms a prominent northward-facing ledge and belongs near the base of the Mesaverde formation. West of the cut are two prominent ridges formed by large reddish-brown limestone concretions that contain great numbers of marine shells. These are in the transition beds between typical Steele shale and the massive sandstone of the Mesaverde formation that lies on it. These transition rocks become gradually more sandy toward the west, and west of Rawlins they form a part of the Mesaverde formation. Pine Ridge is the divide between the Laramie River drainage and that of Rock River. The waters of its eastern slope pass eastward through the Laramie Mountains and enter Platte River at Fort Laramie, 80 miles to the northeast. Those of the western slope flow through Rock River and Medicine Bow River to the Platte and thence through the Seminoe Mountains around the north end of the Laramie Mountains and after a circuitous route of about 250 miles join those of the eastern slope at Fort Laramie.
Just before reaching Rock River station the train crosses the river of the same name, and good exposures of the Steele shale may be seen in the bluffs in the north bank. Northwest of the town the railroad passes over a broad plain formed on this soft shale. About 10 miles from Rock River the road crosses a low, sharp hogback of Niobrara limestone This chalky-white bed, 5 to 10 feet thick, forms a crest because it is harder than the shale above and below it.
Ridge takes its name from the prominent hogback ridge north of the station, formed by a hard sandstone in the Benton shale. The railroad parallels this ridge for a mile or more and then cuts through it west of the station. The lower part of the Benton shale is well exposed north of this sandstone ridge, in the center of the anticline formed by the arching of the strata. The route traverses this shale for about a mile before recrossing the sandstone and the Niobrara limestone and finally returns to the Steele shale in the northern limb of the arch. Near Ridge the sandstone disappears because the fold that extends westward from the Laramie Range here plunges beneath the surface. Como Bluff, which lies north of Ridge station and which constitutes a part of this fold, consists of the Cloverly formation, the lower conglomeratic portion of which forms the crest of the bluff because of its superior hardness and forms also the long southward slope seen to the right from the train. Underneath this conglomerate occur in descending order the pink and blue shales of the Morrison formation which, because of the numerous shades of color, are often called the variegated beds; the Sundance formation containing numerous vertebrate and invertebrate fossils which prove its Jurassic age; and the Chugwater red beds. The Morrison formation is probably the most interesting of those exposed here, because of the fossil bones of huge reptiles that it contains. The dinosaurs are described below by C. W. Gilmore, of the United States National Museum.1 The largest animals that have ever been found lived at a time when reptiles were the ruling types of animals in the sea, on the land, and in the air. Flying reptiles similar to the one represented in Plate V, C (p. 21), were common, and the birds were so much like the reptiles that their remains can scarcely be distinguished.
The stratified rocks in this region have been greatly affected by the disturbances that formed the mountains surrounding it. The region lies between the Laramie Mountain uplift on the east, the Medicine Bow uplift on the south, and the Seminoe and Shirley mountain uplift on the north. The strata between these mountains have been thrown into a series of folds and domelike arches, and in some localities profoundly displaced. A small dome that brings to the surface the Morrison and younger formations lies south of the railroad, but can not be recognized from the train.
The little town of Medicine Bow is well known to readers of Owen Wister's "Virginian" as one of the places where the cowboys played their laughable pranks, and the name of the novel has been taken by the hotel near the station. The name Medicine Bow is of Indian derivation, but how it came to be applied to the mountains from which the town takes its name is not certainly known. It is known, however, that some of the tribes annually visited the mountains that now bear this name to procure a certain kind of wood for their bows. In Indian talk anything that serves its purpose well is "good medicine," and according to report the mountains and streams where this timber was found became known as places where "good-medicine bows" were obtained. The Flattop uplift, north of Medicine Bow, is a large, irregular-shaped dome, truncated by erosion and broken or faulted, as it is called, on the northwest side since it was formed. Carboniferous rocks appear at the surface in the center, and around these the younger formations crop out in concentric rings. The Freezeout Hills form a similar dome but expose granite in the center. Some of the smaller domes from whose crests the Cretaceous formations have not been removed by erosion may contain important oil pools. The town of Medicine Bow is on a rolling plain formed by the erosion of the Steele shale. In this plain are numerous depressions in which water accumulates in wet weather, and as they have no outlet the water becomes alkaline, because it takes up the salts dissolved from the shale and left in the basins when the water previously collected there evaporated. These basins are similar to the alkali lakes of the Laramie Basin and are formed on the surface of the same shale formation. Such intermittent lakes are found in many places in Wyoming.
At Allen station, which is only a section house, the railroad passes from the Steele shale to the Mesaverde formation, which is here upturned and dips steeply toward the west. The softer layers, consisting of loose-textured sandstone and shale, have been eroded, leaving the harder layers to form sharp-crested ridges that are prominent along the road for a distance of about 4 miles west of Allen. The Mesaverde here has its full thickness, whereas at Pine Ridge the upper part had been eroded away before the Tertiary beds were laid down upon it. Although the Mesaverde farther west is an important coal-bearing formation, little coal occurs in it here. A few thin seams less than a foot thick crop out near the road, but none of economic value have been found. The formation is characterized by two zones of hard sandstone separated by softer beds of shale containing fossil oysters and other shells of marine and brackish-water origin. These softer rocks have been eroded to form the depression which was crossed about 2 miles west of Allen, and which contains, north of the track, a small lake fed by sulphur springs at its west end. From the crested ridges of the Mesaverde formation the traveler passes westward over a relatively smooth surface formed on the Lewis shale. The Lewis is a marine shale, somewhat sandy in places, and contains limestone concretions and great numbers of fossil shells, which belong to the Pierre fauna and indicate Upper Cretaceous age.
Como is a section house on the new cut-off between Allen and Dana. The original line, now abandoned, was built by way of Carbon, 4 miles south of Como. The new line not only shortens the distance and eliminates sharp curves and heavy grades but passes through Hanna, the center of an important coal-mining district. At Como the road is built through a small lake about a mile long, in which are found great numbers of salamanders that grow to be nearly a foot in length and are locally known as "fish with legs." These salamanders are rather common in southwestern United States and in Mexico, where they are used as food. The Mexican name for them is axolotl and the scientific name is Amblystoma mavortium. About a mile east of Como the road passes from the Lewis shale to a younger formation, called "Lower Laramie," consisting of soft, easily eroded sandstone and shale containing fossil plants and shells of fresh-water invertebrates. West of the section house may be seen the yellow sandstones of the lower part of the "Upper Laramie" overlain unconformably by terrace gravels. From this locality westward for 5 miles the road is built on conglomerate, which is well exposed in a prominent hill to the left (south) of the track. It reaches the coal-bearing portion of the "Upper Laramie" in the Hanna Basin, a depression formed by mountain uplifts at the beginning of the Tertiary period and filled with conglomerate, sandstone, and coal-bearing shale. (See table on p. 56.) Succession and character of the formations exposed in the Hanna coal field, between Como and Fort Steele, Wyo.
Hanna is a coal-mining town in the south-central part of the Hanna Basin. Two beds of coal are worked here, one 24 feet and the other 36 feet thick, according to the mine superintendent. They are separated by about 1,500 feet of strata in which one coal bed 18 feet thick has been opened and several thinner ones are known to occur. There are other coal beds below the lower or 36-foot bed that will be valuable sometime, but nothing has yet been done toward developing them. Coal was discovered in this region by Frémont in 1843 on Platte River. The beds were opened there in 1856 and some of the coal was used in a forge. From 1862 until the Union Pacific Railroad was built these openings supplied coal for emigrants and for the Overland Stage Co. The presence of coal here was one of the reasons why the Union Pacific was built along the southern branch of the Overland Trail rather than along the northern branch up Platte River and over South Pass. Production of coal for the railroad began at Carbon in 1868, after the completion of the railroad westward to this point, and the coal of this field has furnished power for operating the road ever since that time. The mines at Hanna were opened in 1890. Until 1902 this town was reached by a branch line, and Carbon, 10 miles to the southeast, furnished much of the coal for the road. But when the main line was diverted to pass through Hanna the town of Carbon was deserted and the mines there were closed. The higher coal bed at Threetown, east of Hanna, lies rather close to the surface, and the falling of the roof in the abandoned parts of the mine makes bad surface sinks. One such hole about 150 feet across may be seen to the right, on the north side of the track, south of Threetown. Hanna has a daily coal output averaging about 2,500 tons. The coal is subbituminous and is rather light and free burning. Under the forced draft of the locomotives cinders are thrown out and start numerous fires along the track. Burning grass and smoking ties are familiar sights along this part of the route, and even station buildings are sometimes set on fire. It is estimated that 500 square miles in this basin is underlain by coal and that 33,000,000,000 tons of coal is available for mining. West of Hanna are several deep cuts in which the coal-bearing rocks may be seen to advantage. Conglomeratic sandstones which appear in two of these cuts dip eastward under the coal beds mined at Hanna. Farther west and lower in the formation there are a great number of coal beds, many of them thick enough to be of value for mining. These are all inclined about 20° toward the center of the basin and are warped and faulted in some places. The rocks here contain many fossils, including impressions of leaves, shells of fresh water clams and snails, and bones of dinosaurs, described below by C. W. Gilmore.1 These fossils indicate a period of transition between the old Cretaceous life, in which reptiles were the dominant forms, and the newer Tertiary life, in which the mammals, the familiar class of vertebrates of the present time, predominated. The dinosaurs found here are the last known representatives of their type, and the mammals are primitive and inconspicuous. The plants, however, are of types not greatly variant from those of the present time, although the species are all different.
East of Percy the train enters a cut 65 feet deep and 1-1/2 miles long through beds of coal, carbonaceous shale, and sandstone. It is reported that the coal taken up here by the steam shovel was used in the engine and furnished the power for making the cut. The best bed thus exposed contains coal 8 feet thick. Elk Mountain, which is visible from many points on the route, is seen to best advantage to the left (south) from Percy station. This great mountain of granite, conical in form and 7 miles in diameter at its base (Pl. XII, B), rises to an altitude of 11,162 feet and is at the north extremity of the Medicine Bow Range. To the west of it is a relatively small peak of irregular outline called Sheephead Mountain. Farther southwest can be distinguished on a clear day the Sierra Madre, near the northern boundary of Colorado.
About 1-1/2 miles west of Dana the traveler passes from the rocks of the "Upper Laramie" to those of the underlying "Lower Laramie" formation, but the change is inconspicuous from the train because the rocks are obscured by surface material near the road. The "Lower Laramie" consists of sedimentary rocks more than 6,000 feet thick, mainly coarse-grained sandstone, in which are a few thin beds of coal. These rocks contain fossil plants and shells of fresh-water mollusks, although brackish-water and marine fossils occur near their base.
Between Dana and Walcott the strata are bent up in one of the great arches or anticlines of this much-disturbed region. Edson is on the Lewis shale, but the beds of the North Park formation (Tertiary) extend to the railroad from the south. A mile farther southwest, beyond a short tunnel, is a deep cut through the crest of the St. Mary anticline, which consists of the arched sandstone of the Mesaverde formation. The crest of the ridge is formed of this sandstone, which is harder and has therefore resisted erosion better than the shaly beds that originally covered it.
South of the tunnel the train again crosses the Lewis shale and the "Lower Laramie" formation before it reaches Walcott. The town of Walcott is built on the North Park formation, which here covers the older strata. This formation takes its name from North Park, Colo., where it occupies an extensive area and contains thick beds of coal. From Walcott a branch road runs south to Saratoga and Encampment. Saratoga is on Platte River and is well known to sportsmen for its hunting and fishing. Here are some hot sulphur springs and a well that furnishes a mineral water sold under a distinctive name. Encampment, 43 miles south of Walcott, at the end of the branch line, is the center of a copper-mining district which formerly produced considerable ore but is not now very active. This district is in the Sierra Madre. Copper was discovered here in 1868, but not until 1881 did the district become productive. Altogether it has yielded over 20,000,000 pounds of copper. Gold, silver, and other metals have been found in small quantities. The mines are in crystalline and metamorphic rocks, of pre-Cambrian age, cut by intrusive rocks, including gabbro, which is supposed to he the source of the copper ore. About 2 miles due north of Walcott is a prominent hill known as St. Mary Peak, which rises 7,496 feet above sea level. This peak and the ridge extending northwestward from it are composed of upfolded beds of the Mesaverde formation. The strata, during the process of folding, were broken and thrust upon one another in such a way that those east of the fracture were pushed up over those west of it, so that certain beds of the Mesaverde formation now rest upon younger beds that were originally laid down on top of that formation. Two miles west of Walcott the railroad leaves the nearly horizontal beds of the North Park formation and reaches the steeply inclined massive yellow sandstones of the Mesaverde formation, which are carved by erosion into a great variety of forms. These sandstones make a conspicuous ridge that extends northwestward for many miles. The part of the ridge between Walcott and the point where North Platte River crosses the formation is known as the Rattlesnake Hills; the part north of the river is called the Haystack Hills. Three miles east of Fort Steele the railroad leaves the Mesaverde beds and reaches a formation which has been named the Steele shale,1 from its occurrence here. This shale is the same as that which crops out near Medicine Bow and extends westward from that place beneath the coal-bearing rocks of the Hanna Basin.
The town of Fort Steele derives its name from Fort Fred Steele, an army post established here in 1866 to guard the Union Pacific Railroad against Indians. At the time of the Meeker massacre, in the early eighties, it was from Fort Fred Steele that the unfortunate force commanded by Maj. Thornburg was sent to put down the uprising. Maj. Thornburg and most of his command never returned. That any of them survived was due to the dispatch of a second expedition from the fort to their relief. There is little about the town now to suggest the troublous Indian times. It serves as a place of supply for sheep herders and for the farms scattered up and down North Platte River wherever the valley is wide enough to be cultivated. The North Platte, from which the railroad diverged at the city of North Platte, 291 miles west of Omaha, is reached again at Fort Steele, 384 miles west of North Platte and 3,705 feet higher. From its source in North Park, Colo., the North Platte follows a circuitous route to the north until it reaches a point nearly halfway across the State of Wyoming. In this part of its course it cuts through the Seminoe Mountains and passes completely around the north end of the Laramie Range. In the Seminoe Mountains the river has cut some remarkably picturesque gorges. Across one of these the United States Reclamation Service built the Pathfinder dam, 218 feet high, creating a reservoir having a capacity of 1,100,000 acre-feetthat is, enough water to cover that number of acres to a depth of 1 foot. In this reservoir flood waters that formerly went to waste are stored, to be released as needed to irrigate 130,000 acres in eastern Wyoming and western Nebraska. This project, which is not yet completed, will cost nearly $7,000,000. To the left (south) as the train crosses the bridge over the North Platte at Fort Steele may be seen a sawmill which works timber cut in the mountains and floated down the river. This mill produces many railroad ties and mine props from timber grown in the Medicine Bow and Hayden national forests. North of Fort Steele the Rattlesnake Hills rise from the river level by a series of escarpments, and about 2-1/2 miles south of the town there is another series of escarpments, composed also of the Mesaverde formation and the sandstones of the transition beds between the Steele shale and the Mesaverde, which are illustrated in Plate XII, A. If the traveler were to make an excursion to these two ridges he would observe that the strata in the Rattlesnake Hills dip toward the northeast, whereas those in the ridge south of Fort Steele dip toward the south. If the strata of these two ridges were projected upward along their dip till they met, they would form an arch whose crest would be a little south of Fort Steele. As a matter of fact the Mesaverde formation did at one time extend over such an arch. When these beds were bent up by the development of the fold they were probably fractured at its crest. Along this line of fracture the hard sandstones were more easily eroded than elsewhere and were finally cut through by the streams. The underlying soft shale was then rapidly eroded along the crest of the fold, so that in time the axis of the arch, which was originally a ridge, was reduced to a valley bordered on either side by flaring walls of sandstone. This valley, now several miles wide, is followed by the railroad from Fort Steele to Rawlins.
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