Chapter 5:
FOR THE BENEFIT AND ENJOYMENT OF THE PEOPLE
"From the wilderness the traveler returns a man,
almost a superman.
Enos Mills, in Your National Parks (1917) [1]
THE DAY marked a milestone. Some two or three hundred
people gathered in Horseshoe Park to celebrate. There a panorama of
spectacular mountain scenery provided photographers with a dramatic
backdrop as they recorded the occasion. Automobiles, horseback riders,
and a motorcycle or two formed a haphazard circle around the crowd.
Above them fluttered a banner reading "ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARKDEDICATION, SEP. 4,
1915." People stood ready to hear a handful of dignitaries
offer appropriate remarks. Men from Washington, D.C. mingled with state
officials, testifying that another slice of Colorado now deserved
greater national attention. Five-minute speeches from each official kept
the ceremony brief; people applauded; everyone sang the national anthem;
photographers snapped their shutters. Cameras caught the bewhiskered F.
O. Stanley, inventor of the Stanley Steamer automobile and a leading
Estes Park citizen, as he gallantly posed with a tiny American flag.
Seen next to Stanley was the man serving as master of ceremonies that
day: Enos Abijah Mills. Mills wore a serious expression, seemingly
unable to crack a smile. Perhaps his solemn demeanor betrayed the hard
work that led to that moment. For years he had been at the center of the
fight to create Rocky Mountain National Park; he had written more than
2,000 letters and given 42 lectures promoting the park idea; he had
provided 430 photographs and penned 64 newspaper and magazine articles, all
to promote the cause. Somber as he looked, Mills must have relished his
victory. But that day was more than a personal triumph. For in dedicating a park to future
generations, that crowd of people really marked the end to an era of
pioneering.
|
With a somber expression bare-headed Enos
Mills stands beside the successful entrepreneur of Estes Park, F. O. Stanley
(holding flag). Joining them at the September 4, 1915 dedication ceremony
for Rocky Mountain National Park were national park publicist Robert
Sterling Yard (next to Mills), Congressman Ed Taylor (next to Stanley),
Mrs. John D. Sherman of the National Federation of Women's Clubs, and
Governor George Carlson. (RMNPHC)
|
Enos Mills and his generation had watched the
frontier pass away. Before their eyes the West changed from being truly
wild to a reasonably civilized condition. Mills could stand there on
that September day in 1915 and look back over thirty years' experience
in these mountains. During the 1880s he had lived in its raw wilderness.
By 1915 wilderness had become something to cherish rather than conquer.
And like the West, thirty years' time had changed Mills too. n both
Enos Mills and in Colorado, ideas leading toward preservation developed
slowly.
The 1880s taught men that mineral wealth had to be
found elsewhere. In that regard the mountains from Longs Peak to the
Never Summer Range proved to be poor. A few people still believed that
cattle raising could be profitable, but more serious stockmen used the
expansive Great Plains and not restrictive mountain parks. Certainly timber could be harvested, but mines and boom
towns had failed and most lumbermen moved their sawmills closer to their
markets. Hunting became ever more difficult as bear and elk started to
become scarce. Only people seeking the pleasures of summer pastimes
appeared to be encouraged by what they discovered. Fishermen, mountain
climbers, and other summer visitors continued to invade the Estes Park
and Grand Lake regions, returning each season in increasing numbers and
with increasing regularity. Summer cabins and camps had become
commonplace by the Gay Nineties.
For nearly a decade, Eros Mills had acted much like
the rest of those summertime visitors. He was born near Fort Scott,
Kansas on April 22nd, 1870, the son of a farmer. Ill health plagued him
as a child and any future as a farmer became unrealistic. He needed a
healthier climate. His parents had been to Colorado before, joining the
gold rush in 1859, only to return to Kansas. But apparently they
remembered the beautiful mountain scenery and the healthful mountain
air. They encouraged young Enos to strike westward on his own in 1884.
So the fourteen-year-old Mills visited Fort Collins, found work on a
ranch, and, later that summer, helped trail a herd of cattle to the very
base of Longs Peak for Carlyle Lamb. The Rocky Mountains quickly
captured Enos Mills's attention.
He soon found employment that allowed him to stay in
the area, working at the Elkhorn Lodge run by W. E. James. Wintertime
forced him to leave Estes Park, however, and he found work as a cowboy
out on the plains. In 1885 he returned and began helping around Lamb's
Ranch as Carlyle Lamb catered to people intent upon climbing Longs Peak.
Like others enchanted by this region's beauty, Mills decided almost
immediately that he wanted to own some land and build a cabin. He
spotted a site across Tahosa Creek from Lamb's Ranch, claimed it, and
started constructing what he called his "Homestead Cabin." At about the
same time, Carlyle Lamb introduced him to Longs Peak. That summer Mills
made his first climb. The impression of that ascent was indelible. Over
the years he would repeat that ascent over 250 times. Watching Carlyle
Lamb must also have made him consider a career as a climbing guide. Over
the next few summers, Mills completed his log cabin and began working as
a guide for the Lambs. Each winter he would wander, earning money as a
cowboy or even as a miner. Like other westerners of his time, Enos Mills
"was a curious mixture of the wanderer and the home-lover." [2] His
roaming eventually took him to Butte, Montana, a booming mining center
of that era. There, during the late 1880s and throughout the 1890s,
mining became his trade. Summers he guided tourists; winters found him
working for good wages deep in the Montana mines.
|
A native of Fort Scott, Kansas, Enos Abijah
Mills first came to Estes Park at the age of fourteen. He fell in love with
the Longs Peak area, later acquired land there, and eventually became a
major spokesman advocating the preservation of the region. (RMNPHC)
|
Just like the pioneers before him, Enos Mills's
initial reaction to this country was to possess it, to use it, to build
a cabin, and to own it. In fulfilling that desire, Mills was typical of
his era. In fact, the 1890s saw many men looking at Colorado's mountains
not for their scenic value, but for their practical use. It was a time
when the resources of the West faced full exploitation. Farmers living
out on the parched plains east of the Rockies eyed the snowy summits,
seeing not only dramatic vistas but water waiting to melt. Their soil
was rich, but their prairie was dry, averaging only
fifteen inches of rainfall or less each year.
Projects to store or divert water for irrigation began with the farmers
who followed the Fifty Niners. The only force fighting the farmers was
gravity. Nature inclined much of that Rocky Mountain water to flow
westward; it was lost to farmers around Fort Collins, Greeley, and a
dozen other communities where agriculture had prospered with irrigation.
All along the Front Range reservoirs and canals were constructed. Dams
and diversion projects directed the water more where men needed it than
where nature intended it to flow.
|
Surveyors followed the contours of western
slope mountains, charting the course canals or ditches would run as they
diverted streams and melting snow into eastern drainages. (RMNPHC)
|
Building the Grand Ditch reflected this effort to
divert water for agriculture. According to historian D. Ferrel Atkins,
this project was one of the largest of all the early engineering efforts
to divert water from the western slope and send it eastward. La Poudre
Pass in the northwest corner of today's Park at an elevation of 10,175
feet above sea level was seen as a perfect focal point for diversion
canals. According to the plan, water from melting snow could be caught
in ditches carved along the contour of the mountainsides. Those canals
could be angled slightly downward toward La Poudre Pass. Once those
canals emptied their liquid cargo into Long Draw Creek, the eastern flow
of the Cache la Poudre River would do the rest. With that basic plan in
mind, the Larimer County Ditch Company was formed in 1881. Work got
underway and on October 15, 1890 the first diverted water moved across
La Poudre Pass heading east.
Progress on extending the Grand Ditch proceeded
slowly, while the number of farms increased and the demand for
irrigation water grew more intense. The 1890s saw increased efforts by a
number of companies to compete with the Larimer County Ditch Company.
For a few years, competing survey crews worked across the slopes to the
south of La Poudre Pass and a "water war" seemed to be in the offing.
But ultimately the Water Supply and Storage Company of Fort Collins, the
successor to the Larimer County Ditch Company, gained ownership and
construction rights. Efforts to extend the Grand Ditch began in
earnest. Slowly its earthen canal, some twenty feet wide and six feet
deep, snaked outward from La Poudre Pass along the contours of the
eastern flank of the Never Summer Range. A second and shorter canal
called Specimen Ditch captured water along the northwestern side of
Specimen Mountain.
|
Below: Gangs of workers using picks and
shovels built mile after mile of the Grand Ditch, a diversion project that eventually
spanned 14.3 miles in length. The Grand Ditch was just one of many such
water conservation projects developed throughout these mountains. (RMNPHC)
|
Building and extending the Grand Ditch became the
main effort. Each summer season from 1894 onward men cut into the slopes
with picks and shovels and moved rocks and dirt with wheelbar rows.
Several construction or "ditch" camps were built at spots beside the
canal. Teams of Japanese workers were employed, hiring
on as "companies" rather than as individuals.
Similarly, other companies of ditch diggers were also hired, ready to
perform this rigorous labor. The willingness of these people to live
and work in such an isolated region and the primitive nature of their
shelter and food helped set them apart from other workers. Toil at
elevations above ten thousand feet above sea level also set the whole
project apart from normal construction efforts.
|
Running like a scar across the Never Summer
Range, the Grand Ditch demonstrated the urgent need for irrigation water on
Colorado's arid eastern plains. (RMNPHC)
|
Across the slopes above decaying Lulu City came this
growing furrow marking man's newer demands upon nature. Gradually the
crews worked their way westward to Bennett Creek, then past Lady Creek,
on to Lulu Creek, beyond Sawmill Creek, to Little Dutch Creek and Middle
Dutch Creek. The Grand Ditch captured more water each year. By 1904 Big
Dutch Creek had been reached. By 1911 Lost Creek, Mosquito Creek, and Opposition Creek
were all included. Then for a few years work was intermittent or merely
maintenance. It was not until September of 1936 that machinery helped
complete the 14.3-mile canal ending at Baker Creek.
Visually, the Grand Ditch made a 14.3-mile scar while
the Specimen Ditch was largely concealed from public view. Although both
projects "stole" water from the Grand (later Colorado) River, demands
for water simply outweighed any concern about unsightliness or the
disruption of natural watercourses. Future problems
caused by dumping water into unnatural drainages,
erosion, scarring, landsliding, seepages, and other damages created by
such an ambitious project were largely ignored until the 1960s, when
critics began expressing concern. Clearly, aesthetics were less
important than water in the 1890s. Getting water for farms meant that
nature must yield. Water remained something to be diverted, dammed,
stored, sold, and used. The mountains could not escape being surrounded
by arid land and ambitious men who intended to make that land produce.
For these mountains, the Grand and Specimen ditches merely marked the
beginning of water projects.
While Enos Mills, Carlyle Lamb, and a few other
landowners eked out a living, they began to see the mountains a bit
differently than the ditch diggers. Meeting people bent on recreation
taught these pioneers a basic lesson: the mountains also produced
pleasure. One of the people Mills and Lamb met during the late 1880s was
Frederick H. Chapin of Hartford, Connecticut. He was a member of the
Appalachian Mountain Club and he had already climbed in Europe. While
certainly not the first mountain climber to enter the Rocky Mountain
National Park region, he was an effective writer and a popularizer.
Tales of his climbs up Longs Peak, Mummy Mountain, and Ypsilon appeared
in Appalachia, a journal of the Appalachian Club. A well-known
national magazine, Scribner's, also published Chapin's accounts.
His book, Mountaineering in Colorado. was published in 1889 and
began to turn the attention of other mountain climbers and sportsmen
toward the Rockies. His photographs, adventures, portraits of wildlife,
glaciers, flowers, and natural grandeur, all made the Rocky Mountains
rival the Alps of Switzerland. His criticism that "the first difficulty
which presents itself to the mountaineer in Colorado is the lack of
guides" must have been heard by Enos Mills, then in his late
teens. [3] Though Chapin could kill a bear just for fun or shoot
seven ptarmigan while descending Mummy Mountain, he could also wax
ecstatic about the sights seen from summits or the "dancing flames" of a
campfire. Chapin brought an attitude of enjoyment without possession, a
simple sense of appreciation. Chapin and visitors like him may have
sparked a sense of aesthetics in people such as Lamb and Mills. At the
very least, the sport of mountaineering had officially arrived. "The
lover of high mountain ascents finds a good field for novel expeditions
throughout the range," Chapin concluded, and people came to follow his
lead. [4]
While Chapin climbed, Lamb catered, and Enos Mills
completed his cabin and pondered Longs Peak, greater forces were in
motion well beyond the horizon of Estes Park or Grand Lake. The idea of
conservation began to take shape, nearly ready to invade the region
and alter its future. By the 1890s Americans realized
that a line of frontier settlement could no longer be drawn on a map:
our pioneering population had finally scattered all the way across the
country. Formerly considered limitless, land itself gradually seemed
more precious. Forests, minerals, grazing land, and water could no
longer be considered abundant, free for the taking. Years of advancing
into the wild West, years of homesteading and conquering the wilderness
were ending. Giving people easy access to timber, wildlife, water, and
other resources in the public domain came to be questioned. Laws
regulating the use of public lands had to be refined. Many practices
common to frontier life were now defined as abuses. People realized that
lumbermen stole timber from land they never owned; forests had been
recklessly cut from Maine to California; reforestation hardly existed;
stockmen ruined the range, herding too many cattle upon it; rampant
logging brought erosion and flooding; forest fires raged unchecked;
miners dumped tailings helter skelter. Following an era of exploitation,
a few people reacted, perhaps as a national conscience, expressing
concern for the future of the land.
|
People seeking pleasure or a respite from
economic pursuits and daily toil discovered sport and adventure in the mountains.
(RMNPHC)
|
Earlier naturalists and philosophers offered plenty of
intellectual leadership for developing an attitude of land protection.
Men such as Henry David Thoreau and Ralph Waldo Emerson were often
quoted as leaders of this new consciousness. "Nowadays," Thoreau had
written in his essay "Walking," "almost all of man's improvements, so
called, as the building of houses and the cutting down of the forest and
of all large trees, simply deform the landscape, and make it more tame
and cheap." [5] Nature had a champion. Emerson suggested that
rather than simply chop and saw, people should study and enjoy the
forest. "Here is sanctity," he wrote in "Nature," which shames our own
religions, and reality which discredits our heroes. Here we find nature
to be the circumstance which dwarfs every other circumstance, and judges
like a god all men who come to her." [6]
|
Natural resources seemed unlimited to most
people in the nineteenth century. Only a handful of visionaries urged conservation when abundance ruled
the day. (RMNPHC)
|
A bevy of similar advocates followed Thoreau and Emerson. Concerned
spokesmen such as John Muir of Yosemite, Interior Secretary Carl Schurz,
forester Franklin B. Hough, naturalist John Burroughs, and President
Theodore Roosevelt all helped draw national attention to the need for
better management of the nation's natural bounty. Later these proponents of wise
management were termed "conservationists" and called for a much sounder,
careful management of public lands. For example, efforts to regulate
hunting and fishing through limits, laws, and licenses were initiated in
many states. An honest concern about rapidly disappearing forests and
endangered watersheds led to the establishment of the American Forestry
Association in 1875. That generation also saw efforts at preservation,
with unique natural spots such as Yosemite Valley granted protection in
1864 and Yellowstone National Park set aside from settlement in 1872.
Conservationists began to urge that dozens of other natural features be
protected, suggesting sites as diverse as Niagara Falls and Mount
Rainier. Congress, however, acted with random wisdom. Public pressure
took time to build. In 1881 a Division of Forestry finally appeared in
the Department of Agriculture and in 1886 Congress finally granted it
ten thousand dollars to help curb forestry abuses.
On March 3rd, 1891, Congress passed one of its many
bills attempting to revise and reform land laws. Somewhat more by fluke
than foresight, that bill contained a minor section allowing the
president to "set apart and reserve . . . public land bearing forests .
. . ." Conservationists had lobbied hard for a power to "reserve"
certain lands with the idea of protecting them. Influenced by an
attitude of urgency, President Benjamin Harrison wasted no time; he set
aside the Yellowstone Forest Reserve in Wyoming on March 30th, 1891. The
tempo of conservation increased. By 1892, a total of 15 reserves
protected some 13 million acres of forest, at least on paper. [7]
Four of those reserves were in Colorado, with the White River
Plateau Forest Reserve being created first on October 16th, 1891.
Eventually the Estes Park and Grand Lake regions caught the attention of
conservationists. On May 17th, 1905, President Theodore Roosevelt
extended Wyoming's Medicine Bow Forest Reserve southward into Colorado,
a reserve that included the land of today's Rocky Mountain National
Park. In July of 1910 that section of the Medicine Bow Reserve in
Colorado became the Colorado National Forest. Later, in 1932, it was
renamed the Roosevelt National Forest. But names, boundaries, and
legislative protection meant little until 1897 when Congress finally
appropriated $75,000 for administration of these forests by a Forest
Reserve Service. Rangers began their patrols, but they had no police
power; rules and regulations to stimulate a climate of conservation had
a force of law, but they were rarely enforced. During the 1890s many
westerners could be described as "wholly antagonistic" to the entire
idea of reserves. And the people of Colorado were no exception.
As historian G. Michael McCarthy demonstrates in
Hour of Trial, conservation in Colorado proved to be
somewhat controversial between 1891 and 1907. As long as forest
regulations went unenforced, the temper of protest remained in check.
But after 1897, with the congressional appropriation funding
enforcement, with rangers patrolling the lands, with stockmen finally
required to obtain permits to graze their cattle on public land, with
lumbermen and miners facing restrictions, only then did protests against
the Forest Reserves grow louder. McCarthy offers a typical example of
this early backlash with the remarks of spokesman H. H. Eddy in 1892.
"The aesthetic Eastern people [who] are not interested in the country,"
Eddy argued, "will plaster the West with reservations that will retard
and cripple the hardy pioneers." [8]
|
The idea of conservation hardly appealed to
hardy pioneers busy extracting their livelihood from the soil or from grazing
land. Similarly, hunters, loggers, and miners believed the government
was interfering with their right to nature's bounty. (RMNPHC)
|
In the minds of many westerners, conservation and
forest reserves meant locking away any chance for economic growth. Settlers
and miners saw free use of timber and water as essential to their
lives. For decades it seemed the government encouraged people to come
West, to settle and develop the land. Now it appeared as if the
government had shut the door, putting resources they needed out of
reach. Yet forest reserve policies, issued in 1897, looked quite
reasonable. Prospecting and mining were allowed to continue; water for
irrigation and other useful purposes could still be taken; livestock
could still graze upon forest land, although permits were required and
sheep were forbidden; and timber could be cut. The goals were simple:
end destructive abuses and stop waste. But it was not a more lenient set
of rules that Westerners demanded, they wanted freedom from all
regulation. Arriving rangers symbolized interference.
Regardless of objections, the forces of conservation grew
stronger. Even in Colorado some agreed that the Federal
Government had to assume control. "I think," said William N. Byers of
the Colorado State Forestry Association, "that the general government
is the only authority that can protect the public forests." [9]
Similarly, Enos Mills's interest in conservation started to
develop in the late 1880s with his ascent of Longs Peak. According to
his biographer, he also spent long winter hours in the library at Butte,
satisfying a growing appetite for natural history and the literature of
travel. The works of Dickens, Parkman, Huxley, Darwin, Spencer, and
Ingersoll all cultivated his interest in popular scientific and
philosophic notions. But even more important to his development was his
enthusiasm for travel. A fire in the Butte mines in 1889 set him free to
explore sections of the West he had not seen before. During a trip to
California he met John Muir. This well-known naturalist and
preservationist deeply impressed Mills, motivating him to become a
spokesman for conservation. "You must tell them," Muir was quoted as
directing the twenty-year-old Mills, "tell them that we are cutting down
and burning up the forests of the West so fast that we'll lay this
continent as waste as China, in a few generations." [10] Within
only two years, Mills attempted his first public speech on forestry,
later admitting that the results were premature and dismal.
Mills continued to roam about the country, exploring
the Sierras, Yosemite Valley, Death Valley, and other sites in
California. In 1890 Mills returned to California to enter a business
school, expecting to use knowledge of bookkeeping and accounting for a
career in mining. The lure of the outdoors and wanderlust proved
stronger. Over the next decade he took extended trips to Yellowstone,
to Alaska, down the Mississippi, eventually exploring every state in the
Union. In 1900 he visited Europe. Even though he traveled widely, each
summer found him guiding on Longs Peak. Answering questions from curious
climbers helped hone his skills as both a speaker and a naturalist.
Gradually his travels, his reading, and his experience with people
combined to make him effective and popular both as a guide and later as
a spokesman for conservation. At the same time he began writing
articles about the Estes Park region for the Denver newspapers. Working
winters in the mines merely provided him the means to travel; mining was
not his career. Beavers and bears, forests and flowers, interpreting the
scenes of nature and describing his own adventures occupied his thoughts
more than the mines.
But conservationists such as Enos Mills could not
take all the credit for changing the way Americans viewed their land. As
the nation's middle class grew ever larger and demanding
of leisure time, the concept of the vacation crept into American life.
Previously, only the very wealthy could afford extended time at play;
vacations were hardly a regular experience for most people. But
increasing prosperity combined with a growing rail network made remote,
scenic areas such as the Rockies accessible to those of even the most
modest means. And, once experienced, the cool, dry climate of Colorado's
mountains became addictive for Americans seeking refuge from the hot
summers of the East and Midwest.
As in the past, Colorado's established
and more fashionable resorts catered to these new seasonal vacationers.
Places such as Colorado Springs had long cultivated a reputation for
being accessible and affording stylish comfort. Somewhat more difficult
to reach in the 1890s, Grand Lake and Estes Park started to attract fun
seekers in the same way. The Kaufman House, built at Grand Lake in 1892,
matched the Grand Lake House, the Fairview House, and the Garrison House
in supplying summertime accommodations, along with a growing number of
small cabins. Up along the North Fork, Robert L. Wheeler, or "Squeaky
Bob," established one of the first dude ranches in that region. Called
Camp Wheeler or "Hotel de Hardscrabble," Wheeler's ranch opened in 1907.
Although often described as primitive, resorts such as Camp Wheeler
proved more than sufficient for visitors in a holiday mood. The
atmosphere was perhaps exemplified by signs on Squeaky Bob's cabins that
read, "Blow your nose and clean your shoes. Use all the grub you need
and leave things as you find them." Dudes spending days on horseback
hardly ever complained of crude food or lumpy beds. Resort owners with a
sense of humor helped make vacations memorable. According to historian
Lloyd Musselman, Squeaky Bob ran a camp more memorable than most; he was
notorious for not changing the sheets on his beds, merely scenting them
with talcum powder. [11]
Around Estes Park ranches, guides, and hotels all
catered to the turn-of-the-century surge westward. Small rental cabins
began to dot the landscape. More resorts appeared: in 1902 the Wind
River Lodge was opened, soon followed by the Horseshoe Inn and the
Timberline in 1908, Moraine Lodge in 1910, and the Brinwood in 1911. In
1910 the Western Conference of the Y.M.C.A. acquired the Wind River
Lodge and began an extensive development on its adjacent grounds.
Along with these developing resorts, private summer
cabins appeared in greater numbers. Numerous families became seasonal
residents spending each summer of their lives in the Estes Park region,
generation after generation. One example of these long-term
summertime vacationers was the family of William
Allen White. Late in the 1880s, White spent most of one summer with some
of his Kansas college chums exploring the region from the doorstep of a
rented cabin on the Big Thompson River in Moraine Park. Memories of
those good times drew him back. In 1893 he returned to Moraine Park with
his bride to spend his honeymoon. Later that decade his wife's health
dictated that they escape the summer heat of Emporia, Kansas where White
served as editor and publisher of the Emporia Gazette. They spent
many summers in the Colorado Springs area, the hours of leisure allowing
White to engage in numerous writing projects. In June of 1911, the
Whites decided to rent a cottage in the Estes Park region. "I set up a
tent a hundred feet up the hill," White wrote in his
Autobiography, "put my cot and typewriter there, and every
morning after breakfast went up to write." The result was his second
novel, entitled In the Heart of a Fool. Of his 1911 experience,
he concluded: "It was a summer of pure delight." [12] As a
vacationer turned resident, in 1912 he purchased a summer hideaway
perched at the eastern end of Moraine Park. For around three thousand
dollars he acquired a main cabin built in 1887 and another that had been
added about 1900 as well as two additional "bedroom" cabins. There the
Whites, their relatives and friends, spent many pleasant summers. Among
their neighbors were university professors and Kansas political leaders,
adding an element of suitable intellectual companionship.
|
Fishing always ranked high on everyone's list
of enjoyable Rocky Mountain sports. (RMNPHC)
|
In this atmosphere of leisure, conversation, and
creativity, with the tonic of mountain air and scenes of natural beauty,
White was able to cultivate his passion for politics and his talent for
writing. Over the years White's editorials gained national fame. He
reflected the thinking of small-town America, of people on Main Street.
Gradually his conservative opinions of the 1890s became more
progressive, influenced by close contact with men like Theodore Roosevelt.
White's many articles appeared in national magazines, carrying his
influence across the country and earning him a reputation as "The Sage
of Emporia." As an articulate and well-informed editor, leading
political figures of the day visited White, both in Emporia and in Estes
Park, eager to discuss his views on vital issues. Over the years he
produced dozens of editorials, articles, and short stories as well as
several novels, biographies of Presidents Wilson and Coolidge, and an
autobiography. His writing won him two Pulitzer Prizes. At the time of
his death in 1944 he had earned a reputation as a national spokesman for
common sense. Just like White's Moraine Park place, dozens of similar
cabins appeared in Estes Park around the turn of the century. These
vacation homes served to give people a different perspective, a place to
think and relax, and a place with a touch of solitude.
Summertime residents such as White and the growing
number of his fellow vacationers helped hasten the birth of the village
of Estes Park. Visitors needed supplies and hardly a store existed. Only
John T. Cleave sold a few provisions. This honest and eccentric
Englishman held a 160-acre homestead at the junction of the Big Thompson
and Fall rivers. Some years earlier Cleave obtained that property from
the Earl of Dunraven, opened a store, sold a few goods, and acted as
postmaster for the area. The central location of his land made the site
quite natural for a town. In August of 1905, Cornelius H. Bond, formerly
of Loveland, organized the Estes Park Town Company along with four
associates. The Company bought Cleave's land for $8,000. Bond and his
Company then hired Abner Sprague to survey the property. The resulting
lots were sold, with a twenty-five-foot frontage on Elkhorn Avenue
selling for fifty dollars while less desirable lots a bit further east
sold for thirty-five dollars. Businesses took root almost overnight.
Although it was not officially incorporated until 1917, the village of
Estes Park began to grow. Enterprises boasting "Everything for the
Tourist" started to appear. According to historian June Carothers,
general stores, photography shops, a laundry, a stage station, the Hupp
Hotel with "twenty-three rooms with steam heat and . . . baths with hot
and cold water," and a handful of other businesses brought a taste of
civilization. [13]
|
A panoramic view of Estes Park in 1905 shows a
settlement barely emerging from its pastoral heritage. (RMNPHC)
|
Around the same time, an equally significant land
exchange occurred that was destined to help shape Estes Park's future.
In 1905, succeeding where others had failed, B. D. Sanborn of Greeley
negotiated the purchase of the remainder of the Earl of Dunraven's Estes
Park holdings. Prior to that sale, Sanborn had owned two cabins in the
area as well as Bierstadt and Bear lakes. He had also secured water
rights with the hope of developing hydroelectric power on Fall River. In
Sanborn's view, Estes Park could be developed as one of the nation's
great resorts. Sanborn soon learned that another investor, F. O.
Stanley of Newton, Massachusetts, was also interested in acquiring the
Dunraven property and building a resort, so the two men joined
forces.
During a particularly inventive era in American
history, Freeman Oscar Stanley and his twin brother Francis were
regarded as geniuses. Together they developed a sensitive dry emulsion
for photographic plates. Selling that discovery to the George Eastman
Company brought them a fortune. They also invented, perfected, and
manufactured the Stanley Steamer automobile. At the time, their steamers
were powerful rivals of gasoline-powered vehicles. In 1906 one of their
cars, clocked at 127.62 miles per hour, gained fame as the world's
fastest auto.
|
F. O. Stanley, "The Grand Old Man of Estes
Park," boosted the reputation of the region as a resort by building his grand hotel. (Frank and
Judith Normali, The Stanley Hotel Collection)
|
Stanley first visited Estes Park in 1903. Fifty-three
years old and suffering from tuberculosis, his doctor had advised
him to visit Colorado and not to make any plans beyond that
autumn. Stanley's summer vacation in Estes Park, however, put him back
on the road to health. In the next year or two he made his own plans for
an Estes Park resort, then found it convenient to join B. D. Sanborn in
his efforts. Together, Stanley and Sanborn paid some $80,000 for
Dunraven's 6,400-acre estate as well as 600 acres in litigation, the old
Estes Park Hotel, the Earl's cottage, and a few other holdings.
|
Vehicles like the Stanley Steamer started
appearing, bringing demands
for better roads. An eleven-passenger version of the Stanley Steamer
soon carried vacationers from railheads at Lyons or Loveland to Estes
Park in a matter of hours, ending the days of rigorous travel.
(RMNPHC)
|
Almost immediately F. O. Stanley turned his energy
and money into making this Estes Park property into a premier resort.
On September 10, 1907, work began on a luxurious hotel, designed by
Stanley himself and costing more than half a million dollars. At the
same time a hydroelectric plant was designed and built on the Fall
River, allowing the hotel to claim it was the first in the country "to
heat, light, and cook meals exclusively with electricity. . . ." [14]
The massive, dominating, five-story hotel opened in June of
1909 and began hosting the wealthiest of vacationers. Here was a resort
genteel by design, clearly the rival of every spa in the Rockies. Its
size, conveniences, and scenic location earned it an instant reputation.
Stanley expected his guests to stay a month or more and, with a wealthy
clientele, that was not an unrealistically long vacation.
|
There is no question that the Stanley
Hoteland F. O. Stanleyput Estes Park on the maps of vacationing America. Few
resorts could match such an expansive structure and such a dramatic
natural setting. (Norlin Library, University of Colorado)
|
In September of 1910, the Stanley Manor was started
nearby. This second hostel was intended to stimulate year-round visits
since rooms in the Stanley Hotel had not been designed for winter use.
F. O. Stanley also planned to transport his guests, for his Stanley
Steamers were able to carry visitors from the railheads at Lyons,
Longmont, or Loveland with a touch of modern ease. Naturally, he
recognized the need for better roads, just as other Estes Park
enthusiasts had years before. In 1907 he donated funds for the
improvement of the North St. Vrain highway to Lyons. Only three years
earlier a road carved up the Big Thompson canyon brought better
connections with Loveland and Fort Collins. In 1906 the Loveland-Estes
Park Transportation Company, using eleven-passenger Stanley Steamers,
started making the five-hour trips from Loveland. But Stanley was not
merely content to see the success of his own resort, for he helped
organize a bank for the village in 1908, sold electricity to the growing
number of villagers, and donated property for a park and school
buildings. Most important, publicity advertising the Stanley Hotel put
Estes Park on the map as one of America's foremost "playgrounds." Within
just a few years, influential F. O. Stanley earned a reputation as "The
Grand Old Man of Estes Park."
|
Enos Mills developed his techniques as a
naturalist, a public speaker, and as a writer. (Estes
Park Trail Gazette)
|
The region's resort business grew more popular each
year. One man watching it grow was Enos Mills. In 1901 he
finally stopped watching and began to negotiate with Carlyle Lamb for
the purchase of Longs Peak Inn. Finally in 1902, Mills bought the Lamb
property. Until his death in 1922, the task of running that resort
became Mills's prime responsibility. His summers were busy; his business
became a success. Having that lodge also allowed this budding naturalist
to offer his own ideas about how Longs Peak and this region could be
presented to visitors. Croquet, tennis, or golf hardly fit his style of
outdoor recreation. Instead, mountain climbing, hiking, viewing birds or
beavers, or merely getting alone with nature, could all start at his doorstep. "They
need the temples of the gods," said Mills of his urban visitors, "the
forest primeval, and the pure flower-fringed brooks." [15]
|
Longs Peak Inn served as Enos Mills's base of
operations, first when he acted as guide for Carlyle Lamb and then, from
1902 until 1922, when he owned and operated this hostel at the base of
Longs Peak. (U.S. Geological Survey)
|
Tending Longs Peak Inn (and rebuilding it after a
fire in 1906) meant that Mills no longer returned to work as a miner
each winter. Instead, he took a job with Colorado's Irrigation Department
as its "Snow Observer." Beginning in 1903, he tramped throughout
the Rockies during wintertime to test the snow depths. The Irrigation
Department needed such information to predict water supplies for the
coming season, and this was a job Mills
relished. It gave him a practical excuse to exercise
his wanderlust and curiosity. Into the winter wilderness he went, alone.
He explored much of Colorado's high country, meeting blizzards along the
way. He ventured across the Divide on snowy routes such as the Flattop
Trail to Grand Lake; climbed Longs Peak in February, the first ever
attempt at such a feat; and dared avalanches. One winter, according to
his biographer, "he walked the crest of the continentthe 'snowy
range of Colorado'from the Wyoming line to close upon the New
Mexico." [16] The same curiosity that had sent him wandering
across the nation in earlier years now focussed on the mountains in his
own backyard. Mills soon discovered that his tales of adventure while
alone in the wilderness delighted every audience, whether at Longs Peak
Inn, while making a Longs Peak climb, or at some public meeting. In an
age rapidly growing accustomed to comfort, people were amazed to hear of
Mills's feats in the face of the elements. "The dangers in such times
and places are fewer than in cities," Mills told his eager listeners.
"Discomforts? Scarcely. To some persons life must be hardly worth
living. If any normal person under fifty cannot enjoy being in a storm
in the wilds, he ought to reform at once." Nature could be a tonic for
us all. According to Mills, even a storm could "furnish energy,
inspiration, and resolution." [17]
|
Sawmills, like the one in Hidden Valley
cutting lumber for the Stanley Hotel, dotted Colorado's Front Range. The
creation of Forest Reserves (later called National Forests) helped
regulate such operations on the public domain. (Estes Park
Trail-Gazette)
|
The inspiration he found resulted in writing and more
public speaking. In 1905 he published The Story of Estes Park and a
Guide Book. That book displayed an interesting composite of local
history, a bit of poetry, tales of Longs Peak, and a touch of personal
aggrandizement. Fifteen more books followed, ranging from Wild Life
in the Rockies (1909) to Bird Memories of the Rockies
(published posthumously in 1931). In addition, he wrote dozens of
articles that appeared in national magazines, offering readers details
about forests, the Rockies, wildlife, and geology. At the same time he
was becoming a popular public speaker, traveling throughout the country
telling about life in the forests and mountains. In 1907 President
Roosevelt recognized his ability to deliver a conservationist message
and appointed him Government Lecturer on Forestry, a position he held
until May of 1909. Just as Estes Park was growing more popular with its
new resorts, Enos Mills was gaining a national audience with his pen and
personality.
The creation of the Medicine Bow Forest Reserve in
these mountains in 1905 came without the apparent efforts of Mills, F.
O. Stanley, or any other residents of Estes Park and Grand Lake. Much
earlier, in 1892, John G. Coy of Fort Collins had proposed to the
Colorado Forestry Association that a reserve be created "on the
Cache La Poudre, Thompson, and St. Vrain
watersheds." [18] A public meeting held in Fort Collins
expressed approval of that idea, but soon after opposition developed and
the proposal was delayed. In 1898, conservationists at Fort Collins
again pushed the idea, "badly needed for the protection of the
watersheds feeding agricultural lands. . . ." Again, opposition to a
reserve was heard, this time from a sawmill operator. "My home is in the
reserve," he protested, "and I earn my bread with a little 10-horse
power sawmill, running the saw myself. If you wonder why I object to the
reserve, it is because I love liberty, hate red tape, and believe in
progress." [19] Years of wrangling and debate followed, but
conservationists never let the issue die. Then, with the stroke of a
pen, President Theodore Roosevelt settled the issue. He established the
reserve by proclamation on May 17th, 1905.
Only a few months earlier, in February of 1905,
jurisdiction of all forest reserves had been transferred to the
Department of Agriculture. Running the reserves now became the task of
the newly formed United States Forest Service, and later that year all
reserves were renamed National Forests. Also announced was a basic
principle of management, "that all land is to be devoted to its most
productive use for the permanent good of the whole people and not for
the temporary benefit of individuals or companies." [20]
National forest advocates held an idealistic goal of producing the
"greatest good" for the greatest number of people. But that was
still a concept conservationists might dispute. Some
wondered whether "productive use" for the "greatest good" ruled out
preservation.
|
As agents of conservation, forest rangers
began protecting the resources of the region. Cabins along patrol routes
allowed the rangers a degree of comfort as they roamed the Rockies.
(RMNPHC)
|
On July 20th, 1907, H. N. Wheeler took charge of the
new Medicine Bow National Forest (later named the Colorado National
Forest). He established a government headquarters in Estes Park and
hired a handful of rangers. Soon such men as Warren Rutledge and Shep
Husted were patrolling the new national forest from the Estes Park
office. Other rangers were stationed at Allenspark to the south,
Manhattan to the north, and Grand Lake to the west. But after spending a
single lonely winter at Estes Park, "and having almost no users of the
Forest come to the office to see me,"
Wheeler decided to move his office to Fort Collins.
He believed that Cornelius Bond and other town promoters were "incensed"
by his decision. "It was freely stated that they wanted a Government
headquarters at Estes Park," Wheeler contended, "and if they could not
have a Forest headquarters, they would create a National Park so as to
have the headquarters there." [21]
|
Colorado National Forest Supervisor H. N.
Wheeler believed the region
received adequate protection in its status as a National Forest. Yet he
also suggested a "game refuge" idea that fostered the proposal for a
park. (U.S. Forest Service, Regional Office Historical Collection,
Denver)
|
Exactly who first suggested the creation of Rocky
Mountain National Park may be endlessly debated. Wheeler's name is
mentioned; Enos Mills is a prime candidate; a number of prominent Estes
Park businessmen might qualify. According to historian Patricia Fazio,
the formation of the Estes Park Protective and Improvement Association in September of 1906 marked a
milestone in efforts to promote preservation of the local natural scene.
Men such as F. O. Stanley and Cornelius Bond took leading roles in that
group's decision to publicize the beauty of this mountain valley, to
build roads and trails, construct and maintain a fish hatchery, enforce
game laws, and even protect the wildflowers. By that time Enos Mills had
also become a close friend of Stanley and perhaps his influence as a
naturalist made a strong local impact.
|
Building a useable road across the Continental
Divide was discussed for years. By 1913 the State of Colorado agreed to fund
the project, dispatching convicts to begin a seven-year effort that
developed the Fall River Road. (RMNPHC)
|
Over the next few years a fish hatchery built along
Fall River began producing millions of trout for nearby streams.
Numerous trail building projects such as those on Prospect and Deer mountains
made hiking a bit more enjoyable. Beginning in 1913, elk were
reintroduced, transplanted from Montana. That same year, members of the
Association finally convinced the state to initiate construction of the
Fall River Road across the Continental Divide.
In September convicts from the Colorado State
Penitentiary moved into cabins along Fall River and started a major
seven-year highway project. Most unusual, perhaps, was a posted "wild
flower notice," intended to guard against wanton plucking. It read: "You
can keep Estes Park a beautiful wild garden. Spare the Flowers!
Thoughtless people are destroying the flowers by the roots or are
picking too many of them. Neither the roots nor the leafy stocks should
be taken, and flowers, if taken, should be cut and not pulled. What do
you want with an armful of flowers?" Then the notice concluded with a
stern warning: "Those who pull flowers up by the roots will be condemned
by all worthy people, and also by the Estes Park Protective and
Improvement Association." [22] Conservation consciousness had
arrived.
|
The Fall River Road served its purpose as a
route across the Rockies, but
its narrow and winding course made improvement or replacement essential.
(RMNPHC)
|
Community leaders were clearly sensitive about the
natural scenes around them. In October of 1907 the Association asked H.
N. Wheeler of the Forest Service to address them on the topic of
wildlife protection. "I told them that one of the biggest assets of any
recreation area is the game," Wheeler remembered, "and if they wished to
increase the value of their playground they should create a game
refuge." [23]
Talk of that type certainly appealed to Enos Mills.
In the spring of 1908 he wrote Wheeler asking where a "game refuge" of
that sort might be located. Sometime later that summer, the game refuge
idea was transformed into a "national park" in the mind of Mills. And
the park idea Mills had in mind grew much grander, both in size and in
preservationist sentiment, than Wheeler or the Forest Service ever
expected. Mills proposed a refuge or park running forty-two miles from
east to west and twenty-four miles from north to southover a
thousand square miles of land with Estes Park as its heart.
|
Once considered a harmless pastime, picking
flowers was ranked as injurious to the natural scene by people who expressed a conservationist
consciousness. (RMNPHC)
|
In Mills's view, national forests failed to offer
enough protection for nature. Here he reflected an ideological split
that was occurring nationally. Utilitarian conservationists such as
Forest Service head Gifford Pinchot argued a "productive use" viewpoint
and preservationists such as John Muir fought for aesthetic
preservation. Mills could not agree with lenient Forest Service policies
in regard to grazing or timber cutting. He watched cattle trample
flower-filled meadows right in his own backyard. "A Forest Reserve," he
wrote, "is established chiefly for the purpose of using it to produce
trees for the saw-mill and grass for the cattlea place where
trees are harvested, where woodmen do not spare the trees but fell them
by the thousands to keep numerous saw-mills at work." "Though a Forest
Reserve, like a farm, has beauty," Mills concluded, "it is not
established for its beauty but for practical use." [24]
|
While many other individuals contributed to
the success of the national park proposal, Enos Mills adopted the issue as a personal
quest. (Colorado Historical Society)
|
In September of 1909, the Protective Association voted
unanimously to support a game refuge plan for the area. Later that
organization backed the Estes National Park idea and, by 1911, the
concept of Rocky Mountain National Park. Every detail of all the
debates, squabbles, and arguments relating to the proposed park need
not be examined here. It is enough to say that the Forest Service in
general and H. N. Wheeler in particular supported neither Mill's plan
nor the park idea. Wheeler believed that Forest Service efforts toward
regulating stockmen and sawmill owners were working; forest fires were
being fought; trails and ranger cabins were being built; water development
projects, such as dams at Sandbeach, Bluebird, and Lawn Lakes, offered
progress; mines, such as the newly discovered Eugenia on the side of
Longs Peak, were still being dug. Furthermore, national forests now
had a solid advocacy within the Department of Agriculture. National
parks, on the other hand, had no such constituency. Those that existed
appeared to be run in a haphazard fashion. No National Park Service had
been formed.
Enos Mills cared little for the type of protection the
Forest Service offered. "It deals almost entirely with the business world
and is as plainly and severely a business proposition as is the growing
of wheat and potatoes or the raising of hogs." [25]
From 1909 on Mills embarked upon a personal crusade to establish a
preserve. At first he gained the support of F. O. Stanley, the
Protective Association, and many other Estes Park citizens. His
speaking tours allowed him to carry his idea to the nation. In 1910 he
convinced J. Horace McFarland of the influential American Civic
Association to back the project. The Denver Chamber of Commerce declared
its support that same year and as early as January of 1910 Congressman
Edward Taylor of Fort Collins prepared a bill to create Estes National
Park and Game Preserve.
By early 1911, opposition of the Forest Service
became louder, with people such as H. N. Wheeler often quoted by
newspapers. Some of Mills's closest neighbors living near Longs Peak Inn
also opposed the idea and formed a small but vocal group called The
Front Range Settlers League. Their concern about a loss of private
property as well as a general distrust of Mills's motivations made their
protest especially bitter. In response, that July Mills spawned his own
"Mountain Climbing Organization" to support preservation, patterned
after John Muir's Sierra Club. He enlisted the aid of Denver attorney
James Grafton Rogers and in April of 1912 the Colorado Mountain Club
held its first meeting. Helping to create Rocky Mountain National Park
became one of its prime objectives. Rogers and his law partner, Morrison
Shafroth, also helped by supplying more accurate maps of the region and
drafting and redrafting bills presented to Congress over the next three
years. Meanwhile, Mills served as chief propagandist for the park idea.
He crisscrossed the nation each winter giving speeches, enlisting the
support of newspaper editors, various organizations, and politicians.
In early September of 1912, Robert B. Marshall of the
United States Geological Survey was dispatched to evaluate the proposed
park and to determine whether its features deserved national park
status. His conclusion delighted all the park advocates. His report,
issued early in 1913, recommended "that Congress be asked to create for
the benefit and enjoyment of the people a National Park in the Rocky
Mountains of Colorado in the vicinity of Longs Peak, to be known as
'Rocky Mountain National Park.'" [26] But rather than presenting
Mills's thousand-square-mile preserve, Marshall scaled the preserve down
to seven hundred square miles. Active mining regions, in particular,
kept his proposal smaller.
On February 6, 1913, the first park bill was
presented to Congress. Soon after, the Colorado State Legislature and
numerous other local, state, and national organizations voiced their
support for the legislation. But a speedy decision did not come. More
compromises had to be made. Claims regarding water
usage, grazing rights, private land ownership, use of timber, and
mineral extraction, all reflecting previous decades of pioneering,
needed to be resolved. Mills's original thousand-square-mile dream
shrank even smaller than Marshall's modest seven hundred-square-mile
proposal. The first two park bills died in congressional committees.
Eventually five major revisions were necessary.
On June 29th, 1914, the third and final bill was
presented. Over the next several months Congressman Edward Taylor
carefully guided it through the House of Representatives and Senator
Charles S. Thomas helped it through the Senate. On December 13th, 1914,
the House Committee on Public Lands began its final hearings. Showing a
unity of purpose, former Governor John Shafroth, retiring Governor
Elias Ammons, and Governor-elect George Carlson all testified in behalf
of the bill. There, too, was Enos Mills. Through those years of debate
and compromise, Mills never lost sight of his goal, never stopped
lecturing or promoting. Now he stood ready to make a final emotional
plea in behalf of Rocky Mountain National Park. Between Mills and his
colleagues from Colorado every argument regarding recreation, natural
beauty, patriotism, "Seeing America First," and the proposal's nearly
universal popularity came forth once again. That the region was already
a major recreational area Congress could not deny. Backers claimed that
fifty-six thousand people visited the region in 1914 alone; ten thousand
automobiles traveled the highways into the mountains each year.
Following all that powerful testimony, success seemed assured.
Congressman Taylor kept the bill moving. On January
18th, 1915 the final legislation passed Congress and on January 26th
President Woodrow Wilson signed the bill into law. Over five years of
discussion, debate, and compromise finally produced a park. Less than a
dream, the final bill created only a 358.5-square-mile park, a third the
size Mills had envisioned.
Nevertheless, the Denver Post proclaimed a
victory. And it publicly thanked Enos Mills for his vision and efforts,
calling him "The Father of Rocky Mountain National Park." [27]
For those involved, years of debate, frustration, and strenuous
effort were not without cost: friendships were strained, quarrels
flourished, and bitterness sometimes resulted.
Still, there was cause to celebrate on September 4th,
1915 when citizens gathered to dedicate the "nation's newest
playground." [28] Clouds loomed overhead as the festivities
began. A light rain started falling just at two in the afternoon when
Enos Mills, acting as master of ceremonies, opened the program. A
mountain-style downpour pounced upon the later speakers, but
dampened speeches could not drown the strong feeling of progress
pervading this assembly. Every path of the past seemed to lead to
creating this new park. Mills may have looked back, thinking of the
changes he had seen. "My youthful dream had been to scale peak after
peak," he later recalled, "and from the earthly spires to see the scenic
world far below and far away." [29] One of the last changes
Mills and the passing generation of pioneers produced was a park,
helping to insure that those coming after might also scale the peaks and
see the scenic world.
|
The Denver Post congratulated Mills for
his efforts in January of 1915, just after President Wilson signed the bill
creating Rocky Mountain National Park. (The Denver Post)
|
|